bolt in sub frame connectors

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moparman111

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Hi, I have a 67 Barracuda. I am looking at buying a set of bolt in frame connectors. I have seen only one set that are weld in but they don't list they will fit a 67. They list they are 68 and up. Does anyone know if the underside of the cars are different from a 67 to a 68 and up? Also does anyone know of a company that makes bolt in connectors for my 67? Thank you

Robert
 
I don't believe there is any difference between 67 and 68...and if there was it would have been extremely minor.

The Barracuda is 108" wheelbase so you need connectors for that.

I'd highly suggest you went with some weld-on types. You are bolting through hollow members. Unless it comes with sleeves, which I am not aware of, it will eventually either crush the metal or come loose.
 
Dano the biggest problem I am finding and it may not be correct is the wheel base. I believe my 67 Fastback has a 108" wheel base and all of the bolt in/weld in are for a 111" wheel base. Can anyone confirm? I am sure there has to be a company out there that makes bolt in connectors for my 108" fastback wheel base:(.

Can someone who has a 67-69 fastback chime in on what they used? Thank you
 
Very earliest connectors I know of were at Year One and were bolt in. Maybe they still offer them.
The bolt holes may stretch eventually. Sooner if you're wheel standing, off roading, etc...
 
I don't know of the earlier years of the A bodies but I got the bolt on's for my dart because they we're a few bucks cheaper because I'm cheap, but once I got them I welded them in anyways instead of drilling holes. My plans originally was to weld them in because of the risk of bolt elongations in the future.
 
don't sweat it - if they're too long - shorten them, if they're too short, lengthen them - -I bought a set years ago for a Scamp - 111" wheelbase car - the connectors were for a 108" - we cut them in half, added some stock, painted them and stuffed 'em in there..
moparman111 said:
Dano the biggest problem I am finding and it may not be correct is the wheel base. I believe my 67 Fastback has a 108" wheel base and all of the bolt in/weld in are for a 111" wheel base. Can anyone confirm? I am sure there has to be a company out there that makes bolt in connectors for my 108" fastback wheel base:(.

Can someone who has a 67-69 fastback chime in on what they used? Thank you
Click to expand...
 
goldduster318 said:
I don't believe there is any difference between 67 and 68...and if there was it would have been extremely minor.

The Barracuda is 108" wheelbase so you need connectors for that.

I'd highly suggest you went with some weld-on types. You are bolting through hollow members. Unless it comes with sleeves, which I am not aware of, it will eventually either crush the metal or come loose.
Click to expand...
I would NOT sweat crushing the metal subframe, EVER!
BUT. Surely weld them in when the chance comes up.
ir3333 said:
...is this a quarter mile car?..are you sure you need them?
Click to expand...
Every person I have ever crossed that has installed sub frame rails has always said the most positive things. Needed or not, it is a win win. Unless your doing a OE resto, then you get points off. #-o
 
yea, doesn't matter - street or strip - subframe connectors are a must if you're going to drive the car even semi-hard - as rumblefish said - only time they are a negative would be if the car is a 'to be judged' OE resto.. even just bolting them in will pay off in a better handling car
 
^x2 Subframe connectors made my car quieter by reducing rattles believe it or not, it has been one of the most instant and noticeable differences and I will do it to every car from now on.
 
lets face it Ma Mopar was an engineering co. BUT they also were bean counters. we now spend a few $$ to add subframe connectors. that piece of additional metal should have been there WHEN built new!!! and figure this, these cars are now 45-50 years old. sheetmetal rusts from the inside too! not just the outside, the existing floor pans, rockers ( yes there is an inside and outside too), its all thinner metal. maybe some of the New England metal is wayyyyy thinner!!!! sorry guys!
like said, only time frame connectors is neg is being judges as OEM. not that's another story! there are some other low cost things we can do to our old cars that help handling that do not "hurt" to the casual observer, the OEM look. like helping the LCA!??? for instance????

me, I go to the local steel co. buy 2 x3 rect. tubing, and fab my own. works for me and doesn't cost $100 plus!
 
I've got 64 Barracudas with and without subframe connectors. There is a night and day difference. It is noticable from the time you open and close a door. The ride and handling is so improved with them. Rattles and squeaks are minimal. The car without will get them in the near future. My car has the US Cartools weld in and we put a set made with rectangular tubing (weld in)in a friends car. I doubt anyone could tell the difference without looking underneath the car. I have not used bolt in connectors but I would want to weld them after they were located.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Every person I have ever crossed that has installed sub frame rails has always said the most positive things.

I've always wondered about adding tubing parallel..i don't see*how it would help much but
as you say most feel that they do. ..I sure don't know.
I think torque boxes or trussing the corners would be a better modification.Nothing so strong
as a triangle!
Click to expand...
 
jack your A at a corner with and without connectors...its scary how they flex. bolt ins, then weld them to make intall permanent as youll never unbolt them.
 
those additions have merit - but be sure of this - subframe connectors are proven to work on these cars - the ONLY discussion is whether or not to weld them in - and as it has been said, you should weld because once you've installed the bolt in ones, you will never remove them - the only caveat to that would be a later resto or redo -- but, that's what a cutoff wheel and a grinder are for...
ir3333 said:
rumblefish360 said:
Every person I have ever crossed that has installed sub frame rails has always said the most positive things.

I've always wondered about adding tubing parallel..i don't see*how it would help much but
as you say most feel that they do. ..I sure don't know.
I think torque boxes or trussing the corners would be a better modification.Nothing so strong
as a triangle!
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
I might add, I build my cars to suit ME. if I happen to sell one and the buyer doesn't LIKE the work I did, then I say either DON"T buy it, or buy it and do it to suit yourself. I must be getting to be an ornery old f*** !!??? ha
 
pishta said:
jack your A at a corner with and without connectors...its scary how they flex. bolt ins,

..I agree,that was the test used with Ford,Dodge,Gm and Toyota 4 x4 trucks in the late 80's
or early 90's (can't remember) where they found with one corner on a concrete block the
Toyota was the only one that they could open and close the tailgate on.
These vehicles have some "flex" engineered into them
Sub frame connectors will add some stiffness...i've just always wondered if it was worthwhile
for a street car...Those 4 x 4 domestics are probably still driving o.k.

as for torque boxes or trusses,i've seen stud walls twist and fold under their own weight like an
accordion.Scab 2 corners and they are almost rock solid.
Click to expand...
 
To the OP, the idea of adding the torque boxes is in my opinion a very good idea.
More the merry on these cars.
 
Thanks for all the helpful info guys. My car isn't a drag machine but with a 440/4spd I will get on it at times. I think welding them in will be a positive.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I would NOT sweat crushing the metal subframe, EVER!
BUT. Surely weld them in when the chance comes up.
Click to expand...

It should be a legitimate concern. Is the bolt easier to stretch or the metal easier to crush? I'd venture to say it's borderline on which gives first. If there was a sleeve the bolts would stretch first 100% If you bolted them up and torqued, I bet you get a nice witness mark in the metal.

FWIW, I have the Hotchkis 108" WB weld-on connectors and they are nice pieces. Creates a nice line between the front and rear subframes to send stress through the chassis. They also designed it to create a large amount of weld area to increase stiffness.
 
Gold were they bolt in that you decided to weld? I only see bolt on's. Do you think they are better than the MP bolt ins?
 
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