Having 2 dogs, I pick up my share.
Bolt on timing chain tensioner
- Thread starter j440b
- Start date
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Must the engine be upside down for that system to work?
Studebaker V8s and sixes were factory equipped with gear drives.
Think Ford 300. Nuff said.
Haha well generally you get better oil pressure when it's the right way up.
I put an oiling hole in the other plug too, one is aimed at the fuel pump eccentric and the other at the backside of the chain/sprocket. Holes are about 0.5mm diameter.
Some valuable information.
If your chain without a tensioner is too long but a shorter chain to take up the slack
Tech: Informative Overview Of Timing Chain Design And Application
If your chain without a tensioner is too long but a shorter chain to take up the slack
Tech: Informative Overview Of Timing Chain Design And Application
pishta
I know I'm right....
Pre-grind the ditchs for the double roller so the rollers contact the nylon slipper if that makes you feel better. If a nylon chunk can shear a chain pin...! I got a 200,000 mile plus Mazda that has 2 6 inch long slippers and a 1" shoe that contacts the roller style chain and it has barely any wear on it, as well as all modern engines.
If your digging ditches in nylon with a round edge of a chain, you got oiling issues. And there is nothing wrong with the silent chains if you run these. Hamburger used to sell a Hi-po silent chain for a Mopar before they had roller chains. Its like politics, you wont change anyone's mind on this.
If your digging ditches in nylon with a round edge of a chain, you got oiling issues. And there is nothing wrong with the silent chains if you run these. Hamburger used to sell a Hi-po silent chain for a Mopar before they had roller chains. Its like politics, you wont change anyone's mind on this.
I have had 3 engines of my own that lost timing chains and one of my family's
The first was a 67 289 Ford with 160,000 miles on it. The nylon teeth on the cam sprocket desintargrate, needless to say I had canted valves and pigtail pushrods
The next was a 2.0 85 chevy I4, timing chain slipped / broke, just don't remember why, 250,000 miles
Then a 92 3.1 Chevy V6, this one had all the timing chain plates split at the pin of one link. This one the tensioner was a mess with big chunks scattered all over the place. 160,000 miles
The family one was on a fiero don't know the reason but it turned out to not be a clearance engine! Unknown miles.
All of the engines were propperly maintained,
The common denominator was nylon inside in engine for at minimum 2 most likely 3 of the engines
Common denominator of nylon inside the engine? That's basically every engine built since the '90s. Thats like saying every engine that failed had pistons in it, it's obviously a piston problem.
I think the nylon...plastic....whatever you wanna call it, like everything else has improved over the decades. The nylon that was on factory camshaft sprockets back in the day was hardly what the polymers of today are. Even 30 years ago was light years ahead of the polymers of the 1960s and 70s. When I was working for the local Chevy dealer back in the late 80s, I went to the GM training center in Atlanta several times and even then they were talking about polymer engine parts. Crankshafts, camshafts and on and on. So it wouldn't surprise me to see that some day. Just look at the space program. They've been using badass polymers there for decades.
pishta
I know I'm right....
plastic timing cog probably was more of an issue than the tensioner. I wonder if the tensioner of the 3.1 was taken out by the busted chain, but that is a shame on that one. Hard to image that plastic busting a chain but hey, you experienced it.
Possible, but have you ever seen a chain split the links at the pin hole? Something had to stretch the chain to the point of breaking the links.
Cam and valve train was free to move after replacement.
This is a respective photo I found on the web of the type of broken chain I had.
My gears had no noticable wear marks on them, like in this photo
You said a mouth full there RRR.
There is a small block Ford rebuild book that documented the timing gear nylon teeth issue. And the gear that I took off had some of the teeth still attached and others missing. But the others could be picked off easily.
The 2.0 was a clearance motor so I was able to replace the chain and it ran till I got rid of the car for a transmission issue
The 3.1 was said to be a clearance motor but 2 cylinders begged to differ.
The car was awesome, drove smooth, got good gas mileage, and could run on methanol. (It was a CA car from a fleet of experimental M85 variable fuel cars from the early 90s)
Bryan Lohmiller
Well-Known Member
Hell with it if in doubt go gear drive no timing issues then
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I was going to say I put a Magnum V-8 chain tensioner (1st photo) in my 1965 273, but googled photos and nada. All I installed was an oil drip sheet (2nd photo). Glad I didn't since I read here that Magnum tensioners can fall apart when used against a standard chain. For the dripper, you leave out one bolt for the thrust plate. My factory 273 had a hollow bolt there to let oil from the valley drip out into the chain area. The sheet directs it to drip right on the chain, and is hopefully less likely to clog the bolt hole with gunk.
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
It is the loose side, passenger side that gets the tensioner or guide. Keeps the timing chain from trying to go round on the slack side coming off the crank timing gear. Centrifugal force without the guide/tensioner exacerbates stretch.
A good true roller will not wear or stretch as much as the stock "silent" chains. Anything over 30k miles in the days before the guides was basically timing chain time to get a good tuneup. Without you had "spark scatter" where the loose chain allowed the cam to advance and retard.
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