Bonneville Landspeed Racing - Let's Try a Thing.

-
The blowing up an engine at 150-200mph adds an excitement level I wish to try to avoid. It is always a possibility to grenade a motor, but not just spray and pray like some do.


I’ve been on my roof at over 130mph and although I had a smooth ride I wouldn’t recommend it.
 
Wow, yes I don't want that!!

Quick 16 qualifier and an oil line broke.

0D478D25-5AC7-4DAA-8F7B-E4B763305418.jpeg


254EE459-C69C-4187-96C0-8EAD7DDC53BC.jpeg


350F3D6F-95DB-4DAB-B523-BE16E78F03C2.jpeg
 
Hell, do a drop in forged piston/rod combo, and blueprint the hell out of a Hellcrate/Hellcat/Redeye engine. They already have a top speed of 200. A little coaxing could easily get more.
 
Pure blasphemy.... but if it's not a displacement limited class, I'd put in a 632 chevy crate, and hit it with a 250 shot. 1000hp plus.
Gosh you drag race characters have a lot to learn. SCTA/BNI have their own classes to run in; Streamliner, Lakester, Competition coupe, vintage streetrod and the list goes on and includes motorcycles and diesel trucks. Then engine displacement classification, then naturally aspirated or blown and then fuel being gasoline or fuel. Fuel could mean an alcohol, nitro or diesel.
You need to remember that a few short weeks before speed week the salt is probably under water and may still be damp. In 1998 the temperature was 105°F and the altitude is fairly high.
Yes weight is for stability but also traction with narrow tires for low resistance.
Friends from Calgary ran with number 1149 whoch was as close as they could get to N49 for North of 49. They could not crack 200MPH until someone told then to add weight for traction. They bolted 1" plate to the bottom of the chassis and finally went over 200MPH.
Licensing runs are on the short track of 2 miles with another mile to slow and stop. Once you have made progressive safe passes at increasing speeds but not exceeding 170MPH you are granted a license and can go to the long track for higher speed runs.
The best bet once you pick a class to compete in, you need to build a safety cage to specifications for that class, and then get ahold of SCTA/BNI for their tech inspectors to look it over with a core engine and MT trans case. Once your chassis is approved you can get serious about the engine build. Be forewarned you will likely be making a number of trips for inspection before even considering an entry to run. I would also seriously consider planning to attend Speed Week at least once and possibly with your car on a trailer just to talk to other competitors. These guys and gals are generally the uppity types common in
other organized motorsports. The worst nose in the air snobs are probably the F1 crowd. The land speed crowd is pretty laid back. The Bean Bandits are a great bunch to get to know.
No racing is cheap and land speed is no exception.
 
Last edited:
Gosh you drag race characters have a lot to learn. SCTA/BNI have their own classes to run in; Streamliner, Lakester, Competition coupe, vintage streetrod and the list goes on and includes motorcycles and diesel trucks. Then engine displacement classification, then naturally aspirated or blown and then fuel being gasoline or fuel. Fuel could mean an alcohol, nitro or diesel.
You need to remember that a few short weeks before speed week the salt is probably under water and may still be damp. In 1998 the temperature was 105°F and the altitude is fairly high.
Yes weight is for stability but also traction with narrow tires for low resistance.
Friends from Calgary ran with number 1149 whoch was as close as they could get to N49 for North of 49. They could not crack 200MPH until someone told then to add weight for traction. They bolted 1" plate to the bottom of the chassis and finally went over 200MPH.
Licensing runs are on the short track of 2 miles with another mile to slow and stop. Once you have made progressive safe passes at increasing speeds but not exceeding 170MPH you are granted a license and can go to the long track for higher speed runs.
The best bet once you pick a class to compete in, you need to build a safety cage to specifications for that class, and then get ahold of SCTA/BNI for their tech inspectors to look it over with a core engine and MT trans case. Once your chassis is approved you can get serious about the engine build. Be forewarned you will likely be making a number of trips for inspection before even considering an entry to run. I would also seriously consider planning to attend Speed Week at least once and possibly with your car on a trailer jist to talk to other competitors. These guys and gals are generally the uppity types common in
other organized motorsports. The worst nose in the air snobs are probably the F1 crowd. The land speed crowd is pretty laid back. The Bean Bandits are a great bunch to get to know.
No racing is cheap and land speed is no exception.
This is what I have learned since wanting to go down this road. Thank you for the summary for anyone reading this. I plan to be there next year to see it all in person and talk to as many people as I can.
 
Hell, do a drop in forged piston/rod combo, and blueprint the hell out of a Hellcrate/Hellcat/Redeye engine. They already have a top speed of 200. A little coaxing could easily get more.
On ashphalt and on the salt are two completely different kettles of fish. HP is required but weight and aerodynamics are big players. Weight goes against you in most racing events while the more the better on the salt, to a point. At approaching 200MPH air becomes like a brick wall and the salt is slippery, so traction is limited. If I was going to run I would look at building front wheel drive and front engine and run in a lakester or liner class. If you lose traction you can spin out which could lead to a ddangerous crash. If you lose traction on FWD with limited slip you just quit accelerating, but stay straight.
 
This is what I have learned since wanting to go down this road. Thank you for the summary for anyone reading this. I plan to be there next year to see it all in person and talk to as many people as I can.
The pits area is pretty relaxed and you can generally find someone that will talk to you about their car and class. In 1998 there was a team running a 1941 International truck with a 16V 92 on the frame behind the cab. Essentially the back of the cab was the radiator with a duct through the cab taking cool air to the radiator. He got into the throttle a bit hard at 150MPH and spun out. Belt drive gave it pretty much direct drive in top gear.
Look for the Bean Bandits and try to get invited for their burrito supper. If you take the fixings to make Margaritas, they will likely make a blender full. Great guys with awesome stories. Ask them about the stollen car.
 
I’ve been on my roof at over 130mph and although I had a smooth ride I wouldn’t recommend it.
If I remember they require a catch pan in case an engine grenades. The salt is a National Heritage site and enviornmentally protected. In the pits a plastic catch sheet is required under the car when work is done to it, to keep oil out of the salt.
 
On ashphalt and on the salt are two completely different kettles of fish. HP is required but weight and aerodynamics are big players. Weight goes against you in most racing events while the more the better on the salt, to a point. At approaching 200MPH air becomes like a brick wall and the salt is slippery, so traction is limited. If I was going to run I would look at building front wheel drive and front engine and run in a lakester or liner class. If you lose traction you can spin out which could lead to a ddangerous crash. If you lose traction on FWD with limited slip you just quit accelerating, but stay straight.
Sounds like you've "been there, done that". OP asked about making power. I don't pretend to know anything at all about salt racing. But, thanks for the education that I didn't ask for. :thumbsup:
 
As an aside my buddy who is a tuner and runs a tuners podcast went to the salt and helped a team set a record with a blind driver. You can’t make this up. He had some just hilarious stories but they did it. The blind pilot of the car is also a machinist. His name escapes me now but neat guy. I thought sure he was reeling me in like a fish when he first started talking about.
 
Went to Bonneville for the 50th anniversary with a friend that had worked for Crondek that made the timing equipement. He had to stay for the week in case something happened that he had to repair. With time on his hands he got into announcing. This was 25 or so years previous. So I got some inside stories.
Then friends in Calgary built a car running BBC power and I got to hear their trials and tribulations stories. Their car is/was number 1149 for North of 49.
 
Yes, I saw that too. They did it and it may behoove us to know their recipe, I again, am just getting my head around all of this. All that I have seen had single pot master cylinders as well. yikes.

So I am building a 68 Charger which is giving me all of the thoughts on this. It will get at least the C500 aero package. but the best solution would go Daytona just to help with the HP aspect:
Drag Coefficient:

Charger 0.484
C500 0.411
Daytona 0.28

Likely the best solution is just build the car, learn, go out and talk with people and come home to build a purpose built car - unless by some miracle, this one would be close to useable.
Single pot brakes is not really a big problem on the salt. 2 mile runout and parachutes allow time and distance to slow and stop. Remember that the air drag at speed will do a lot to slow the car just by getting out of the throttle and cutting fuel.
Liners and lakesters have very low CD so rely more on fuel cutoff and then the parachute. If you had road race or NASCAR brakes the low traction would allow the wheels to lock up.
Fuel and blown alcohol dragsters and funny cars do not have much for brakes, relying on their parachutes. They could install powerful brakes but that would add weight they do not want.
 
Single pot brakes is not really a big problem on the salt. 2 mile runout and parachutes allow time and distance to slow and stop. Remember that the air drag at speed will do a lot to slow the car just by getting out of the throttle and cutting fuel.
Liners and lakesters have very low CD so rely more on fuel cutoff and then the parachute. If you had road race or NASCAR brakes the low traction would allow the wheels to lock up.
Fuel and blown alcohol dragsters and funny cars do not have much for brakes, relying on their parachutes. They could install powerful brakes but that would add weight they do not want.
I hadn't even thought much about that, thank you!
 
I was talking building not buying used. And that’s not a Mopat.
Well $50k is a steal of a deal. To run 277MPH would likely take most of the $50k just for the engine. In a Camaro you have a fair bit of drag even with aero mods. Then you have the chassis and class compliant cage.
 
So, I remember for NASCAR they needed 85hp to reach the speeds they wanted. Aero was cheaper and easier than more HP. How much equivalent HP did they achieve? I think the C500 hit 190 and Daytona hit 200+. Was that the 85hp or was it actually more?
Way more power. The Daytonas and then the Superbirds were a bit faster due to the aerodynamics. The high wing helped downforce but the sails on the sides tended to aid keeping the rear from getting loose. Those Mopars dominated until NASCAR banned the winged wonders. That is when Ford introduced the more conventional aero package Talledegas.
 
Thank you. Yes I have a rule book already. Mostly just learning right now. This discussion was what the masses thought was the best way to make the HP for extended runs needed. Do you run a car there? That yours in the pic? I would love to discuss things with you as they come up. I don't believe my current build would be a good fit, but who knows. Also, there is no way in Competition Coupe or Modified Sports would I have the budget to compete for a record. Just would like to make some passes someday. Starting with learning and asking questions.
People have scrutinized the rule book looking for a bit of a loophole or place they could gain an advantage. They may be a record holder in a class but change their engine to one that is only a couple of CID under the limit for a class where they think they could get that advantage. Their chassis is already sorted but may take a couple of years on engine developement.
 
No budget? R5P7 with a giant turbo on meth.

Realistically? A bulletproofed 400 BB with a giant turbo on E85-90.
That would put you in A or BBF and then the body class. Maybe a Neon engine could have an advantage in another class.
A or B is engine displacement.
Second B is blown.
F is fuel as not gasoline. Gasoline would be G.
 
Last edited:
Depends on what class you want to be in, and how many performance and safety mods you want to do to the rest of the car. And who you want to compete against.

Am I correct in thinking you cannot just show up with a hot rod and race at Bonneville speed week can you?

it’s not like going to a drag strip rest and tune.
First you need a class compliant cage for the weight and estimated/established speeds in the class. Better pick a class up front. Yu can take a car to the tech inspectors way in advance and have them inspect it. Better to have them tell you about required changes 6 months or a year in advance. They can also give guidance on choosing a class.
 
I knew someone would go there on the lack of budget. Just an average guy. What do people think is needed to run WOT for 5 miles at a time and make the HP number?

You say giant turbo, but i would think something capable of 20-25lbs of boost should be enough, no?
I forget the boost Speed Demon chewed to develop 2500HP.
 
To revive this thread....

What cam characteristics would you look for to go WOT for let's say 5miles. Something like the old purple 590??
 
Your not gonna need to care about lower rpm performance (bottom end) did you decide on engine and displacement and peak rpm to accomplish your goals?
 
-
Back
Top