Bonneville Landspeed Racing - Let's Try a Thing.

-
2” is about as big of a block as I’ve used and been comfortable with on just about anything. More than that and axle wrap starts to be a problem. Alter the mounting point for the springs if you have to.
I will have to look at the spring mounts, I don't think I can do much at this point to alter it so much. I know I have used 4" lift blocks on 4x4 without too much issues. Should be the same?
 
I will have to look at the spring mounts, I don't think I can do much at this point to alter it so much. I know I have used 4" lift blocks on 4x4 without too much issues. Should be the same?
We did the same in high school on my buddies 4x4. We used I think 4”or 5” blocks under front and rear leafs. It was terrible and when he stood on the gas the rear bounced violently on the street or in the dirt. That’s all the experience I have though with larger blocks. I’ve put 1”and 2” blocks in cars without any effects at all.
 
We did the same in high school on my buddies 4x4. We used I think 4”or 5” blocks under front and rear leafs. It was terrible and when he stood on the gas the rear bounced violently on the street or in the dirt. That’s all the experience I have though with larger blocks. I’ve put 1”and 2” blocks in cars without any effects at all.
Thanks. I was always told block in front are very much no no. Blocks in back are OK, taller springs are better. Never more than 4". I don't know...
 
So, it warmed up to the low 40s today. Perfect flannel weather, no gloves. Etc.i put in the replacement header studs and cut some more clearance for the header tubes The brake lines are now run, except i need some of the threaded ends. The turret style flaring tool kicks so much ***, i am truly amazed how nice it works. Also, I notched the frame cross member so the brake and fuel lines are now recessed above the bottom of the frame. This should allow a full belly pan, should that be decided on and if there is time. I hope to have the parts to finish up the lines and get started on wiring.

20241228_113516.jpg


20241228_113527.jpg


20241228_173244.jpg
 
Got the brake lines finished up today. Cushion clamps will be here tomorrow, those will get added next time it's in the air. Finished up the fuel lines also. So, I threw the wheels back on and dropped it on the ground again. Way more motivating when it's back to having the side windows below pocket height and nose just above the knee.
 
Currently an 850dp. It is 4500ft so it may be a bit much. There is a 2in taper hole spacer i made on top of the RPM intake.
 
Currently an 850dp. It is 4500ft so it may be a bit much. There is a 2in taper hole spacer i made on top of the RPM intake.
Down leg boosters ? If so, I think annular boosters will definitely help being the carbs on a dual plane.
 
Last edited:
That thing really does look awesome. It looks fast just sitting there. You are however going to need a hell of a hood to get all that stuff out of the path of airflow.
Thanks and yes I know. I would love to notches the center of the cross member to lower the motor, but being cast aluminum, it is outside my abilities. And, the height makes for a very nice flat underbelly. I am allowed 11" tall scoop for race day and may need all of that!
 
Well, my day yesterday was off to a very slow start. Horrible headache, but it was so nice out (45⁰) and sunny, I ran to Van's and got a start solenoid and coil bracket. My wiring terminals didn't come (undeliverable per shipper) so, I had a hard stop there. I mounted the coil and started sorting out the alternator mounting. The water pump pulley needed to be changed to a double V to get the spacing right. I drilled a hole for the pivot bolt through the engine plate and made an ugly bracket that bolts to the adjuster section. This has a double heim adjuster for tension. I may make a better looking bracket, but probably not. Nobody seems to make a manual rack and pinion for thr panther suspension system, so i will need power steering. Not what i want, but it seems necessary. The factory power steering pump wont work with thr front engine plate (without a bunch of scalloping of the plate) so likely will go with a Sweet Mfg compact pump. I may have to reverse install a steering quickener to reduce sensitivity or just pull the belt when on the salt. Not sure where I want the battery (maybe in the passenger side back seat footwell?) or the start solenoid, but at least I am making progress.

20241230_161126.jpg
 
Last edited:

Unisteer might be another company to check for a rack
 
Didn't get much done today. 36⁰ in the garage. I did make the elevation/angle mount for the gas pedal. It will be removable from the floor, I think. It makes the position much more comfortable. The transition from gas to brake is perfect despite all the pedals are too close, but i am OK with that.

20250101_154702.jpg


20250101_154708.jpg
 
Didn't get much done today. 36⁰ in the garage. I did make the elevation/angle mount for the gas pedal. It will be removable from the floor, I think. It makes the position much more comfortable. The transition from gas to brake is perfect despite all the pedals are too close, but i am OK with that.

View attachment 1716346690

View attachment 1716346691
the pedal assy. looks like something from a heat sealer for mailing envelopes
 
the pedal assy. looks like something from a heat sealer for mailing envelopes
A toe hook to manually pull throttle back on an emergency is required. I don't have it on at this time just for ease of set up.

It does look a bit like a vacuum sealer or heat sealer, I agree. Lol
 
-
Back
Top