Bracket Racers....dial in science

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71gtdart

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ok guys, we all know the basic layout for getting the car to run reasonably consistent. try to roll into the beams the same amout each time, stall the same rpm each time, keep the car as straight as possible going down track, and master hitting the shifts at the blink of the shift light.

thats the basic format, however the weather changing from day to night, sudden cloud cover, or even after a 15 minute rain shower all effect the engine. the numbers will move when the air does. a lot for some, not so much for others. thought it would make for an interesting thread, if we all posted any tricks or changes that we use to try to hold the car to tight numbers. I'll start with a few that are common knowledge, and then some that maybe are not.

1.) RUN ALCOHOL. carb is great, and fuel injection is better. if you don't mind the maintenance that goes with it, it will flat out repeat. the burn rate of alcohol is not affected by the weather nearly as bad as gasoline. while a 200 foot drop in density altitude may speed up a gas motor by .01, it often will take a 400 to 500 foot drop in the DA, to speed up an alcohol engine by .01. you will burn twice as much fuel while using alcohol, as you would if running gas in the same engine. however, the alcohol is around 3 dollars a gallon vs 7 to 12 dollars for race gas, depending on which type.

2.) RUN CARB ON THE LEAN SIDE. I use an EGT monitor to keep an eye on the exhaust temp, of the leanest burning cylinder. I try to stay around 1375 degrees in the day time, and no more than 1420 degrees at night when the temps drop. hot air is thin, and as the air cools, it gets heavier. this means the carb will take in more air at cooler air temps. if the carb is just a little rich during the day, then of course we know the engine is getting more gas than air. you may run close numbers like that through out the day, but look out when the temp drops!!! that engine that wanted more air to go with that little too much fuel, is going to get it, and speed up she will. often by 2 to 3 numbers between rounds. it makes the car harder to dial, and breaking out more likely. my theory is run it lean, and it starts the day out wanting a little more fuel. when the temp drops, and the heavier air is forcing more volume to the carb, it won't move very much at all. the reason being is that it already wanting a little more gas to start with, and the better air will not meet axtra fuel waiting for it, through the carb. much easier to keep the numbers tight. it works. the car won't be as fast as it could be, but it won't lose much, and will reward you with tighter numbers.

3.) RUN A SMALLER CARB OR A RESTRICTOR PLATE. same game as running lean on the jetting. just choking the air flow down a little, and trying to keep an air/fuel ratio, that won't be as affected by the weather.

thats just a few of mine. some may disagree, but they work on my car, and I have a ton of runs in my log book that back it up. Lets hear some from you guys. this could be an interesting thread with lots of tips, tricks, theories, and deep thinking, LOL!
 
i take a test run or two or three depending on how many the track lets you have. then the scientific stuff begins. i dial faster by .1 of my fastest hit. as the races progress i always dial .1 faster than my last race if i won. this is fairly simple and has always worked for me. the next thing is to race the finish line correctly which to me is alot easier if you're the faster car. i never bothered with all the other crap you're talking about, especially the .01 stuff. i just didn't care about that little bit of et.
 
i take a test run or two or three depending on how many the track lets you have. then the scientific stuff begins. i dial faster by .1 of my fastest hit. as the races progress i always dial .1 faster than my last race if i won. this is fairly simple and has always worked for me. the next thing is to race the finish line correctly which to me is alot easier if you're the faster car. i never bothered with all the other crap you're talking about, especially the .01 stuff. i just didn't care about that little bit of et.


I think you may have read it wrong, Bob. when I say .01, thats one hundreth. as in the difference between running a 10.80 to a 10.81. the way I'm reading your post, is that you dial a whole tenth faster each round? as in dial 10.80 one round, and then 10.90 the next?!!!!! if that is the case, then wow!! not caring about a hundreth will get you put on the trailer in my area.
 
I only have 3 things I watch...well, maybe 4...anyway, here is my list:

1. Cut a light. Without a decent light the rest of this gets tough or impossible in some cases (like if your opponent mathematically eliminates you with a 15 thou package and you just cut a 0.040 light :banghead: ).
2. Drive the stripe. I believe this is just as important, if not maybe a little more important than cutting a light. I try to take no more than a 0.01 MOV.
3. Watch the flags. My car is about as aerodynamic as a garage door, watching the wind is a must for proper dialing.
4. Watch for fresh track prep. My car is sensitive to when they drag the track, it will usually pickup 0.01 ish from the previous run depending on when they last dragged the track.

If you notice, there is not much there regarding weather conditions (except wind) and dialing my car....for some strange reason I can dial my car from the second time run (first run is always junk unless I get a good warm up) and it will run the same number all day long (within a few thousandths). It has always been like this since I built this last motor (about 4 years ago)...not sure why. If it is hot and greasy out I dial up a couple numbers (e.g. if I can run 6.90 all out, then I would dial 6.92 to be safe...then drive the stripe).

Oh yeah, one other thing. I try to leave the line at the same temp (water temp) each time. Later in the rounds when the car gets hotter the car starts to pickup, usually ~0.02...apparently my car likes to be hot...but not too hot. If it gets too hot is runs like crap....I think my car is moody...LOL.
 
I run a electric shifter so I don't shift it,i leave on a chip on the trans brake,so I leave at the same rpmi run alky,last sat ran a string of 9.82s,the car does its job,just comes down to the driver here,you do have to favor in,wind,track conditions,track temp,daytime,night time,i use a weather station,plus I work 3rds,so im on 24 hours at the track without sleep
 
I was going to ad - a weather station and a detailed log book are really the two most critical to a bracket car that I've seen. You have to know what it did under what circumstances, and then what the current circumstances are to produce a solid dial. In the northeast the weather can change dramatically through the day so a dial in the first round will almost always be way different from a final - never mind the track prep and conditions over the course of a race.
 
when I went to bret kepners drag racing school one year he gave us a list of 100 things we should keep track of each run,hes big on numbers and weather,and every little detail,ive learned a lot from him,and still do
 
X2 on Moper's post about the log book. We keep them in the trailer and refer to them often.
 
Watch the flag to see which way the wind is blowing......
 
I use Crew Chief Pro as a log book and ET predictor, I think it works great when the car is tuned to follow the weather. Consistency and knowing your car are the biggest tricks in my opinion. Part of knowing your car is to know when to dial honest or hold a few in the bag.
I am more likely to dial honest during the hot summer months and bag a few during the spring and fall. It makes finish line driving a lot easier when you know your going under and your opponent drives around you before the first cone (LET HIM HAVE IT) as long as the lights are close you will break out by less than him. I got runner up at a gamblers race at bracket finals last year doing this exact thing. My motor was hurt and very inconsistent i just dialed a number that i knew the car could run and watched everybody drive right by. Defiantly the most fun I've had with a broken car.
 
I have my driver (Son) leave the same way on each run.
I will make adjustments (chassis & tire pressures) to the car for redlighting or reaction concerns.
I more or less bring the car to him.
Driving the stripe is just as important as the starting line.
My last words to him before a run, isn't cut a light, its drive the stripe!
 
I think you may have read it wrong, Bob. when I say .01, thats one hundreth. as in the difference between running a 10.80 to a 10.81. the way I'm reading your post, is that you dial a whole tenth faster each round? as in dial 10.80 one round, and then 10.90 the next?!!!!! if that is the case, then wow!! not caring about a hundreth will get you put on the trailer in my area.

hmmmm, that might be why a wasn't very good at it.:eek:ops:
 
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