33IMP
Well-Known Member
Ni-Copp (nickel/copper alloy) is very durable, easier to form than steel, and MUCH easier to form than ss.
It's NOT cheap, and I don't know if it's made in 1/2.
Edit: 1/2 Ni-Copp is available, found a 25 foot coil, for $240
Braided Stainless Steel Fuel Line
- Thread starter 340Dart
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It's NOT cheap, and I don't know if it's made in 1/2.
Edit: 1/2 Ni-Copp is available, found a 25 foot coil, for $240
I've read lots of bad reviews on the nicopp line. Like it kinks badly and doesn't bend very well and collapses easily when you try to bend it. Does it take a special bender?
mopowers
Well-Known Member
I didn't realize you could get the 1/2" stainless hardline annealed. Does that mean this stuff is reasonably easy to form and flare?
1/2
I wonder how that would compare to something like this in terms of ease of use and durability?
Copper Nickel Fuel / Transmission Line Coil. 1/2
tjpatte
Well-Known Member
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
The only downside to tubing is sizing. The tubing has a smaller ID than hose does.
Also, I never use hose clamps on fuel lines any more.
You can get flare nuts or whatever they call them and use AN fittings for connections.
Much cleaner and safer than hose clamps.
Also, I never use hose clamps on fuel lines any more.
You can get flare nuts or whatever they call them and use AN fittings for connections.
Much cleaner and safer than hose clamps.
Yes, you can get copper/nickel in 1/2", I got mine at Summit, it was around $86. for 25 ft. $50. something for 3/8". Yes, I used AN flared nuts and sleeves on it for fittings. You do have to have an AN flaring tool, I have one, built an airplane. In difficult bend areas I used SS braided line or AN fittings. My new car is an old race car, so my fuel feed and return lines are routed a little differently, 1/2" and 3/8"", but all doable and doesn't look bad.
1/2" Feed line, # 8 AN
3/8" Return line, #6 AN. Yes this size through the fitting is close to 1/4".
Regular tubing bender
Having said all of this, if I had a normal car, I would just get it all from Inline tube or some other mfr. Think that we have lost the OP here! Sorry!
1/2" Feed line, # 8 AN
3/8" Return line, #6 AN. Yes this size through the fitting is close to 1/4".
Regular tubing bender
Having said all of this, if I had a normal car, I would just get it all from Inline tube or some other mfr. Think that we have lost the OP here! Sorry!
I'm a believer in using Cu-Ni lines. The stuff is easy to bend, easy to flare, easy to work with. And not very expensive. Pressure is not an issue for it. It doesn't rust. It seals well after you flare it. Because it's easy to work with, you can run it right up to where you need it and then go to a short(er) pieces of braided to get to the final spot.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Thank you! How does it compare to say aluminum in terms of work hardening and splitting?
Lots of good info here.
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Yeah well.....lol That looks good! Is that on the orange car? You ever gonna finish that thing?The anodizing on you has clearly been rubbed off...
Aluminum stuff works OK.
View attachment 1716362582
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Have you ever used 5/8 stuff? I’d be curious how tight it will bend.
Yes the Orange Bomb. I hope to get an engine back in and finished up to run/drive. Things are looking a bit better recently.
tjpatte
Well-Known Member
This flaring tool from Ridgid works really well and goes to 3/4.
They certainly do, same one in my tool box in the hangar !
tjpatte
Well-Known Member
I like the handle on this one. I have the one I linked, can be a bit of a pain to hold on to depending where you’re working with it.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
Swagelok is the bee's knees, I got very familiar with their fittings working on my research project in grad school (sub-ppm gas contaminant blending system) and really wanted to use it on my car projects but had a hard time finding retail outlets, seems like they try to only sell to research or industrial customers. Where did you get your bender from and did they sell fittings too?
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