Braided Trans Cooler Lines

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2fine69s

2fine69s

69 340-6pak Rag Top
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Hey guys,
Does anyone make a steel braided trans to radiator cooler line kit? 69 Dart, 727. It would be a big help instead of piecing together fittings and line, as I'm not that familiar with the AN sizes vs. actual hose and thread sizes needed, not to mention what goes into the radiator to attach the line to. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I dont know of any thing pre-made, but I run braided stainless PTFE lines on my car. Sadly I think your stuck piecing together a system. Stock steel lines are 5/16" a equivalent size in braided would be -6AN. The fittings in the trans and radiator are 1/8" NPT. There are adapters to go from NPT to AN. I also picked up a tranny cooler that had AN threads on the inlet and outlets.

I can give you a run down of every piece I used on my system, but your car and routing may vary.
 
straightlinespeed said:
I dont know of any thing pre-made, but I run braided stainless PTFE lines on my car. Sadly I think your stuck piecing together a system. Stock steel lines are 5/16" a equivalent size in braided would be -6AN. The fittings in the trans and radiator are 1/8" NPT. There are adapters to go from NPT to AN. I also picked up a tranny cooler that had AN threads on the inlet and outlets.

I can give you a run down of every piece I used on my system, but your car and routing may vary.
Click to expand...

Great Information!
Aprox how much line should I order, I'm only using the cooler in the Griffin radiator not an external?
Thanks for your help,
Martin
 
Actually 5/16" equates to -5 an. they are measured in 16ths -4= 1/4", -6= 3/8", -8= 1/2" and so on each -? Is equal to the number of 16ths for diameter of the tube or hose
 
2fine69s said:
Great Information!
Aprox how much line should I order, I'm only using the cooler in the Griffin radiator not an external?
Thanks for your help,
Martin
Click to expand...

If your just running from the trans to the radiator, then you should be able to get by with a 20' roll.

Here is a list of things you may consider buying. This is simply a suggestion and this is also for the rubber lined braided stainless. Just plan out your routing so that it stays away from any heat source or suspension etc...

4- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220646/overview/
2- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220687/overview/
1- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220690/overview/
1- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220686/overview/
1- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230620/overview/

The 4 adapters, 2 in the trans and 2 in the radiator
2 90* elbows, 1 in the back port of the trans, 1 in the passenger side of radiator
1 straight adapter drivers side of radiator
1 45* elbow front port of trans.

1qwikScamp said:
Actually 5/16" equates to -5 an. they are measured in 16ths -4= 1/4", -6= 3/8", -8= 1/2" and so on each -? Is equal to the number of 16ths for diameter of the tube or hose
Click to expand...

Ah yes, you are correct sir..
 
straightlinespeed said:
If your just running from the trans to the radiator, then you should be able to get by with a 20' roll.

Here is a list of things you may consider buying. This is simply a suggestion and this is also for the rubber lined braided stainless. Just plan out your routing so that it stays away from any heat source or suspension etc...

4- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220646/overview/
2- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220687/overview/
1- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220690/overview/
1- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220686/overview/
1- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230620/overview/

The 4 adapters, 2 in the trans and 2 in the radiator
2 90* elbows, 1 in the back port of the trans, 1 in the passenger side of radiator
1 straight adapter drivers side of radiator
1 45* elbow front port of trans.


I really appreciate your time and effort in helping me to go braided on my trans lines. All is on order and I hope to install it this weekend, again Thanks,
Martin
Click to expand...
 
1qwikScamp said:
Actually 5/16" equates to -5 an. they are measured in 16ths -4= 1/4", -6= 3/8", -8= 1/2" and so on each -? Is equal to the number of 16ths for diameter of the tube or hose
Click to expand...

LOL, good luck finding "-5" AN stuff for automotive use. -6 is just fine.
 
On the tranny, use 1/8-NPS fittings, not 1/8-NPT. Otherwise you can easily crack the case. Also, no teflon tape on these threads. Fragola is one company that makes the 1/8-NPS male to -6AN male fittings for the tranny, #481671-BL. Radiator uses the normal 1/8-NPT fittings.
 
69_340_GTS said:
On the tranny, use 1/8-NPS fittings, not 1/8-NPT. Otherwise you can easily crack the case. Also, no teflon tape on these threads. Fragola is one company that makes the 1/8-NPS male to -6AN male fittings for the tranny, #481671-BL. Radiator uses the normal 1/8-NPT fittings.
Click to expand...

I have never heard of using NPS, or cracking the case easily. The difference for the OP is NPS are straight threads and NPT are tapered. Both are the same thread pitch and angle etc... Many people have used NPT with out issues, including myself. Is it possible to crack the case, sure anything is possible.
 
Engineering principles apply to hardware selections. NPS threads at the trans because they're in cast aluminum that could be cracked by service techs if a tapered thread had been used.
 
Well there you go. Just don't have a service tech work on your car. Lol! Seriously, when I was getting my parts together I couldn't tell you how many people told me to get NPT. Hence why I recommended them. My apologies to the OP for recommending the NPT fittings. If it's not to late buy the NPS fittings.

If I would had known to buy straight I would had done that. I'm not about to try to get those fittings back out with the trans in the car.
 
If you go to a Parker store or anyone that makes hydraulic hoses they should be able to fix you up. AN is like JIC only tighter thread tolerance and my understanding is that JIC works fine
 
I used aluminum 3/8" lines with -6 AN fittings. The cooler taps in the case are 1/8" NPT, you can get adapters to attach to the -6 lines. I used Russell Twist-Lok towards the front where it meets the radiator support. The Twist Lok is just as tough as any braided hose. It's also lighter and easier to work with.
 

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mopowers said:
How do NPS fittings seal if they're not tapered?
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Aluminum crush washer:
$_57.JPG


http://fragolaperformancesystems.com/an-x-nps-thread-transmission-fittings-aluminum-an-adapters/
 
Maybe that is why the NPT where recommended to me.. People didnt figure the straight threads would seal properly. The stock brass fittings that where in the case where tapered on my trans, as have been the ones on other trans that I've seen. Interesting discussion none the less.
 
69_340_GTS said:
On the tranny, use 1/8-NPS fittings, not 1/8-NPT. Otherwise you can easily crack the case.
Click to expand...

Sorry but that's 100% incorrect. Where did you get that information? The cooler line taps are 1/8" NPT. Use 1/8 NPT fittings for 1/8 NPT threads.

Cracking a case would most likely be caused by over tightening, or using the wrong fitting like a 1/8 " straight pipe fitting in a 1/8" tapered pipe thread hole.
 
rmchrgr said:
Sorry but that's 100% incorrect. Where did you get that information? The cooler line taps are 1/8" NPT. Use 1/8 NPT fittings for 1/8 NPT threads.

Cracking a case would most likely be caused by over tightening, or using the wrong fitting like a 1/8 " straight pipe fitting in a 1/8" tapered pipe thread hole.
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Recommendation comes from the guys that make the fittings. Sweet Performance http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-AN-To-1-8-NPS-transmission-cooler-fittings-Chrysler-727-904-Torqueflite-/231282930429, Fragola (shown above), etc... You have to realize that the NPS threads do not rely on the wedge/taper effect of the tapered NPT fittings to seal. They screw right in to the NPT holes with almost no torque required. All the sealing is done by either an o-ring or the above pictured soft aluminum washer. But nobody is saying you have to use them. I don't know how you can say "100% incorrect"... because they worked just great on my 727.
 
69_340_GTS said:
Recommendation comes from the guys that make the fittings. Sweet Performance Fragola (shown above), etc... .
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Right, they are trying to sell you something. Despite what they may think or tell you, it's not necessary and it adds complexity where there was none before.

69_340_GTS said:
You have to realize that the NPS threads do not rely on the wedge/taper effect of the tapered NPT fittings to seal. They screw right in to the NPT holes with almost no torque required. All the sealing is done by either an o-ring or the above pictured soft aluminum washer.
Click to expand...

I understand how they work and I am not arguing that but...if you use the correct fitting for the thread in the hole, there will be no problem. Over tightening fittings is not the fault of the fitting but rather the person tightening them. All fasteners have a torque spec, it's up to the person with the wrench in their hands to heed them. Or not.

Perfect example - there was a guy/gorilla where I used to work who cracked a case during a routine transmission service. He was putting the pan back on and over torqued the pan bolt. Pan bolts don't require a lot of torque, maybe 35 in lbs. If they don't go in, the threads are bad or cross-threaded, there is old silicone in the hole or you got the wrong bolt. He knows that too he, has been a mechanic for longer than I've been alive. But, he kept going despite the resistance and crack! Right through the pan rail and up into the case. You gotta blow through several road blocks to do that!

69_340_GTS said:
But nobody is saying you have to use them. I don't know how you can say "100% incorrect"... because they worked just great on my 727.
Click to expand...

I'm sure they work fine. But in every every other instance though it would probably be wisest to use the correct fastener/fitting for the application.
 
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