A little background, I've been doing this 30 some years, I have done many front end rebuilds. So, with that said, here's the brainfart...Complete rebuild on my Duster, to include new torsion bars from PST. I forgot to put the strut rods on the LCA's and have to take the LCA's back out to do so. I have been working on trucks for the last few rebuilds and completely forgot (beer and excitement may have played a roll)! The problem is the new torsion bars will not come out. I have worked hours on this. I have completely ruined my remove tool, which my dad made years ago and worked really well. I have tried everything short of unbolting the k-member and trying to take it out as a unit. I'm afraid the next step after that will be the fire wrench. Any suggestions?
Brainfart rebuilding front suspension!
- Thread starter dostroupe
- Start date
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Have you disconnected the shocks so you can lower the control arms all the way down? I've also had to remove the control arm bumper and once had to separate the lower ball joint to get the control arm low enough.
I removed the whole thing including k-member to clean and paint. I have the UCA's on, the spindles on and the torsion bars in, that's it. I had to use the adjusters to line up torsion bars with the LCA socket. I've tried everything from having the adjusters completely out to turning them in 8 turns, in half turn increments. The bars went in really easy. I'm out of patience.
Take a hammer and tap rearward on the lower control arms.
Do you have the upper bump stop in place? If not things may not lower enough to take the load off the TBar socket.
I'm not trying to be a smartass when I ask this, but did you take the torsion bar retaining clips back out? I'm the king of dumbass and that's just the kinda thing I would do.
I was just gonna ask.. LOL
Damn man. I just noticed you're in Macon. I'm in Jones County. WHERE bouts are you?
Smith's? Are you serious? That was our last shot too since Ben's went out. I don't know of another one. I have a heavy duty torsion bar tool. I'll ride out there if you think it might help.
Maybe we'll get together on it. I'm stumped.
Ok, PM me your number. It may not be today, but I can ride out there this week if that's good. Just take a break and maybe we can brainfar.....I mean brainstorm it together.
Lord don't I know it!
I just had to use home made t-bar tool to create a backing (dog) to
drive a steel wedge against LCA socket, after thoroughly heating socket with mapp gas torch.
So, the heat expanded the socket, wedge with sledge hammer persuaded separation of t-bar from socket.
I left LCA stub shaft in K member to keep things aligned. After a few mighty blows the parts began to separate. Had to keep pounding until the t-bar was all the way out.
After 54 years (1967 Barracuda) that baby was stuck! The other t-bar came right out by hand, lol!!!
drive a steel wedge against LCA socket, after thoroughly heating socket with mapp gas torch.
So, the heat expanded the socket, wedge with sledge hammer persuaded separation of t-bar from socket.
I left LCA stub shaft in K member to keep things aligned. After a few mighty blows the parts began to separate. Had to keep pounding until the t-bar was all the way out.
After 54 years (1967 Barracuda) that baby was stuck! The other t-bar came right out by hand, lol!!!
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
did you grease the torsion bar hexes & sockets before assembly?
I never use any tools directly on a t-bar. All I've ever done (and I've done it probably 50x) is loosen the adjusting bolt on LCA, and loosen and/or remove the lower control arm pivot nut on K-member. Then I just put a 3 or 4ft pry bar between back of k-member and LCA and pry it backwards. It's never failed me yet.
I never use any tools directly on a t-bar. All I've ever done (and I've done it probably 50x) is loosen the adjusting bolt on LCA, and loosen and/or remove the lower control arm pivot nut on K-member. Then I just put a 3 or 4ft pry bar between back of k-member and LCA and pry it backwards. It's never failed me yet.
Yes I greased the torsion bar and sockets, I even made sure they fit the sockets well before I put them in. I have pried to the point that it scoots me across the floor. I've never had this much problem before. 2lb sledge and a ruined homemade removal tool that has always worked. IDK
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure why you'd need a sledge hammer to remove the t-bar, and I hate to think of what kind of damage you'd do trying to use it. If you don't have a HD pry bar, maybe you could grind a chisel like edge into one of the hexes of one of your old t-bars (as long as they're not 340 or BB t-bars) and fashion yourself a reasonable facsimile of a store-bought pry bar.
Update fellas, I couldn't leave it alone, sorry @RustyRatRod . So here's what I did, I have a couple of old (read good) Craftsman tire tools (my dad called them spoons) that are unbreakable. I got a piece of 4ft long iron pipe and slipped over the tire tool and pried, got a cramp in my back and bent the k-frame, but it's out. It should have never taken that much, I'm a pretty healthy 50yr old. The right side pretty much slipped right out. So what caused the bind I wonder? The LCA was not hooked to anything. At least it's out and I can continue.
@rustycowll69 It's never taken more than few good taps with a ball peen and a removal tool. Thanks for giving me an idea what I can use my old t-bars for!
@rustycowll69 It's never taken more than few good taps with a ball peen and a removal tool. Thanks for giving me an idea what I can use my old t-bars for!
It's all good. Let me know if I can help with anything. We'll be happy to ride out.
Great, and same goes for me save my number.
I can do that! Already did in fact.
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