Brake Light Switch Adjustment ??

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LH23H2R

LH23H2R

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--->Update : Junk Switch !<---

**Ends up that the switch is junk ; the shaft (the interrupter) is bent . Getting a freshie for tomorrow a.m. from work . My main ***** is that these are a mother****er to remove from the bracket , and a joy to reinstall .**


This lack of brake lights is really pissing me off !

I replaced the damned stop light switch last night --- lots of fun !! Arthritis + cramped working area + sweat + stupid busy , racing mind = one pissed off me !

So , I get the new bastard installed , hop-in the car , hit the brakes . Brake lights light up ; but when I let my foot off the brake pedal , the damned lights stayed on !
WTF ?

I'm at a loss here ; loss of patience and loss of resources .

WTF went wrong here ?!?!
Shouldn't this be a simple R&R and I'm on my not-so-merry way ???

This is my daily driver , so I don't have time to play games with this *****.

Should I :
- Rob a bank so that I can buy a new car ?
- Take one-too-many Xanax tonight ?
- Go on disability and thusly wash my hands on owning a car at all ?
 
Back the car up to a wall (or have a helper) so that you can see the brake lights. Push the plunger in on the brake light switch to see if it does indeed work to turn off the lights. If it does work next would be adjustment. You want to adjust it so that plunger is pushed in all the way with no pressure on the brake pedal. With the pedal at rest the plunger is in and when you press the pedal the plunger extends outwards causing the lights to illuminate.

The brake lights should come on after the pedal has dropped a slight amount. It is kinda hard to describe the proper amount of pedal travel prior to the lights coming on, but there should a small amount.
 
mcnoople : Thanks much for taking the time to reply :thumblef: .

I'm going to just take my car to a shop near my house , and see if they can ascertain whether or not the new switch is faulty or if there's another mitigating problem .
It's extremely difficult for me to work on my car in this capacity (42 years old and have gnarly arthritis ... I know , world's smallest violin , right ?) , so I'm going to have it checked before I completely lose it :glasses7:.

Thanks again for your help !
 
doug 371 : Thanks for your reply and support :thumblef: !

I found out that the switch --the new one I got from work-- is junk (see original post for the update ).

I'm going to see if I can take the whole mess over to my friends' house tomorrow morning and fool with it there . He has a garage and a full compliment of tools / benches ; I live in an apartment .

Thanks again to you guys for helping direct me and for your support :D:D:D:D
 
I know what you mean about getting to the switch. You may just try to remove the seat (four nuts) and you'll find it's much easier to get in there. The switch rides on a slot and is easily adjustable once you can see it clearly.
 
Two five gallon joint compound buckets with covers screwed to a 2x8 plank five feet long makes a nice place to lay on while futzing with stuff under dash.

100_1521.jpg
 
So the switch mounts in a little L shaped bracket. That bracket is held in place with one bolt in a slotted hole. Take the bracket down, change the switch, re install the bracket and adjust its position using a test lamp, tighten the bolt.
 
wjajr said:
Two five gallon joint compound buckets with covers screwed to a 2x8 plank five feet long makes a nice place to lay on while futzing with stuff under dash.

100_1521.jpg
Click to expand...

Brilliantly simple, portable and cheap! Glad you posted this pic :hello1:. Thx.

Grant
 
wjajr said:
Two five gallon joint compound buckets with covers screwed to a 2x8 plank five feet long makes a nice place to lay on while futzing with stuff under dash.
Click to expand...

That's one HECK of a good idea for us old, crippled, arthritic relics

But it'll take a LOT more than 8" wide, and "I" need padding!!

Mine has buckets, and I've found it is well worth the effort to buzz off the 4 bolts to yank the seat out for more room.
 
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