Brake pedal falling

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Stephenf

Stephenf

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my 69 swinger brake pedal doesn't stay up or return if you will. It falls enough that it turns on the brake lights. Does anyone have a schematic so I can make sure I'm not missing parts. I bought the car and since buying it seems to be getting worse. I'm thinking there's a return spring missing. Thanks in advance!!!!

Merry Christmas!
 
Had same problem on my 65 Dart, put a heavy return spring on pedal about half way up
and hooked it on to the steering column bracket. Been like that a couple of years and seems fine.
 
There's no return spring on the brake pedal, and one shouldn't ever be needed. If you need one, something is wrong with the brakes. If the pedal is falling, you have a brake system issue. Probably at the master cylinder (or booster if power), bad seal, low fluid, leak, something along those lines. If the pedal doesn't return all the way after a brake application, it's more than likely a brake line issue, the fluid is being restricted in it's return. That's usually the rubber lines going out to the wheels, or the frame to axle line in the back. It can also be a sticky wheel cylinder or worn out brake shoe return springs. And if the pedal just sits low to the floor all the time, it applies and returns fine to the same location every time but to a spot which is lower than the pedal stop, it could be the master cylinder push rod is too short. But in that case the brake pedal would have ALWAYS been like that, it's not something that would just start happening. If it just started it's something else (line problems, leaks, bad booster, master, etc).

Regardless, you shouldn't add a spring, you should figure out what is wrong with your brakes.
 
If it is down just enough to barely turn on the brake lamp switch, you probably just need to adjust the switch. That is why it has a slot in the bolt hole. In NJ, you should flush thru new brake fluid every 4 yrs or so (unless using silicone). Every used car I bought had rusty junk come out when I flushed the system, so guess they didn't know that, or care.
 
So the weather finally broke and I had an opportunity to tinker a little bit it feels like the travel from when the brake pedal starts to push on the piston in the master cylinder is too great I looked at some different threads on here and I see some talk about adjustable rod's wondering if I either have the wrong rod or if it's actually adjustable I did not see any adjustment but then again I didn't have a long time to play around with the car hopefully it's just the wrong rod or it's out of adjustment
 
Switch position is adjustable, factory rod length is not adjustable. There is a bushing that wears causing a slight difference in adjustment.
Odds that you have the wrong rod are very slim.
The return spring is inside the master cylinder. That spring shouldn't allow the pedal to drop even with a fluid leak. Anyone who has ever bench bled a new master cylinder knows this.
Can the firewall move causing the master cylinder to locate farther away from the pedal? Yep. Firewall flex/movement was a OEM fault in a small number of Ford pickups. The clutch master would move away to the point that the clutch safety switch wouldn't close, truck wouldn't start. We service techs had to install a reinforcement plate in X number of new trucks. Their clutch master did have a much stronger return spring though. Is that relative to your 69 A-body? Probably not, unless its been wrecked or very very rusty. At the same time, firewall position to pedal perch position variances in production is why the brake lamp switch position is adjustable. Fords clutch safety switch position was not adjustable. Reinforcement plate was the only proper fix. anyway...
A spring on the pedal arm under the dash is not a proper fix. That could pull the pedal to master apart or pull the master cylinder itself apart. We saw a master cylinder pulled apart in a recent thread ( installer error ). Instant no brakes is not the goal.
 
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