brake project

[1966 dart wagon]

ok as of now my brakes suck!

the right rear bleader is striped, the left rear is gone(broke off?) i bled the fronts pure fluid coming out still bad brakes.

when i have a friend pumping the pedal and such i have him release the pedal first time fuild shot up, oops :silent: next i had him release the pedal after bleading again(makin sure) it looked like air bubles were coming threw the line (up towards the mc) when he released

i'm going to buy a new master cylinder and new wheel cylinders and id like to get willwood??(spelling) front brakes but that is a ways down the road. how do i get new bleader bolt/nuts so i can blead the backs and when i press on the pedal the brake light comes on. This isnt as confusing as the wiring was for me, but close ha

 

[RattyBarracuda]

If you are getting new wheel cylinders dont worry, they come with the bleeder screws installed. if you are having trouble removing and rusted brack fittings or bleeders heres a little trick that always works for me...use an acetalyne torch to heat the area around the fitting/bleed until it is nice and warm...use a heating tip not a cutting tip, and a small flame. when you get the fitting warm remove heat and dump some nice cold water on it. try to wrench free...if still stick repeat.

onto the bleeding. 2 mehtods with partner.

1. have him pump pedal and hold. you open bleeder a small bit. let air out. close and tell partner to pump and hold again. repeater. when stream is nice and fluidy open quickly and shut quickly one last time. dont for get to add fluid in between if bleeding is using alot of fluid.

2. open bleeder and let sit until dripping. have partner push pedal and hold. close bleeder. have partner release pedal. open bleeder, have partner push and hold pedal. close bleeder. repeat until no air. chk fluid.

in both instanced never open the bleeder very far. i prefer a quarter of a turn.

as a last resort if all else fails and you dont get new wheel cylinders. you can bleed at the hose where it meets the hard line on the body. air gets trapped in high spots. while this wont vacate all the air from you wheel cylinders it may get some of it out and give you a somewhat decent pedal.

hope this helped...

Stroker

 

[redfastback]

with the back brakes leaking, as well as a single bowl master, you'll never get good brakes. seal up the system, and do it again, furthest wheel to closest.

 

[1966 dart wagon]

thanks man i called my local parts store, the same place i'm getting my ps line they said:

27.99 for front cylinder ea.
11.99 for Rear cylinder ea.
13.99 for a master cylinder(with trade in)

i'm going to buy all of this with my next pay check which i got on thursday(20th) i cant wait :thumblef:

200 posts woot woot :salut:

 

[1966 dart wagon]

well i got all of my rear brakes redone with new lines too looks very good, i took off my drum for the left rear and all of the self ajusters fell out :silent: ouch anyways i replace both wheel cylinders, lines, springs, and the car came with pads in a box so i installed those. tomorrow i am gonna take a look at the fronts too i already looked at one it look good, but i'll re check it. also i am thinking of buying a new mastercylinder i dont think mines is bad but hell for $13 cant beat that at least it will be all clean and not all rusty. any sugestions on stuff i should do?

 

[66dartgt]

Check your rubber hoses and make sure they arent cracked or otherwise damaged. Bench bleed the master cylinder before installing. Then bleed the passenger rear until no air bubbles then the left rear, then the right front, and finally left front. Done. I would also use DOT 5 silicone fluid. Expensive as heck but you wont ever have problems with the brake cylinders, flush the lines if you do - to clean out the old DOT 3 or 4. DOT 3 and 4 is hydroscopic, DOT 5 is silicone fluid and wont rust the cylinders as a result.