Brake warn Light wiring

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iw378

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I'm rewiring my car with an aftermarket "kit". Anyways I have the car running now with their ignition wiring. I had to fab a jumper wire from ign 1 to ign 2 on the back of the switch because their kit only has a 4 wire connection at the switch. I am working on the brake warn light now off of the factory schematics and am a little stumped. I'll start at the e brake switch.
I have a wire running from the ebrake switch to the correct pin on the cluster then that wire goes out to the switch on the proportioning valve. The other wire goes from the other brake warn pin on the cluster and going to ign 1 on the back of the ignition switch. Couldn't I just hook that wire up to a 12 volts with key on power ??
Any help appreciated.
Luke
 
Your description loses me. Here is the path

From ignition, through whatever fuse, to the cluster, to one side of the lamp

The remaining side of the lamp comes out and branches off, one wire to the e brake switch, the other wire to the warning switch.

Either switch grounding will cause the lamp to light.
 
Some pre 70 models the 12 volt supply was the same as inst' panel, linked on printed circuit board, dark blue w/ white, hot at switch on. Either of the 2 switches supplies a ground path to other side of the bulb.
It really should be routed through the fuse box though.
 
Power it off one of the accesory fuses that is hot when the car is running and you should be good to go.

So, yes you can supply power to it from anywhere that you can get keyed power from (just should be a fused ciruit)
 
Some pre 70 models the 12 volt supply was the same as inst' panel, linked on printed circuit board, dark blue w/ white, hot at switch on. Either of the 2 switches supplies a ground path to other side of the bulb.
It really should be routed through the fuse box though.
Not sure if you remember that you worked on my dash so here is what I did. On the dash pin terminal that is supposed to go to the ign switch for brake warn power (ign 1) on the switch I put that wire to your pos on my amp gauge that was converted to volt a gauge fused power with key in run. If this does not make sense I'll put a picture up of what I did to make it work.
Luke
 
In a factory harness the blue with white is fused only by the fusible link outside the firewall. Branching that for the park brake lamp will work. I think of a good reason to do it differently.
There is a lot more current there than necessary to illuminate a single light bulb. All the wires down stream to the 2 switches are fused by the element in the bulb though so it really cant be a major fault. If you used a little more wire under the dash to get switched 12 volts from a unused male spade found on the wiper switch the results would be the same. Only difference would be the source and a 20 amp glass fuse in the supply path.
 
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