Brake warning light - Proportion valve wire connection ?

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QWK FSH

QWK FSH

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I bought my 68 cuda after it had been converted to 74-76 manual disc up front. I believe they switched the prop valve from the donor car as well. The brake warning light has always came on when I apply the brakes. I have the cast style prop valve as seen in the picture. My warning light wire is connected to the front post on the prop valve. Is this correct or does it go on the center post.

Thanks

prop%20valve.jpg
 
Bump for someone who has the cast valve above (74-76) and knows where to connect the brake warning light wire.

There are 2 posts, one in front and one at the top. I'm thinking the previous owner has it in the wrong spot but wanted some input.
 
My 72 w/ manual disc connects to the top center post.
 
if it keeps coming on even after you switch the wire like TERRY SAID.....you may have to bleed The brakes....or open the front Bleeder and slam the pedal to the floor to throw the valve to the opposite dirrection.....and then drive, if light still on try opening the rear and slamming the pedal down a few times....the valve may be so close to one side or the other that may be tripping light saying your brakes are failing.........Make sense.....an doubt remove the bulb LOL
 
Crack a front bleeder, have someone SLOWLY push the pedal until they feel a click. Same for the back. This will center the valve.
 
mine is identical to the cast one in your initial post. the wire on mine is on the top post NOT the front end. I can take a pic for you if you like and it will help. (76 4dr Dart)
 
Thanks all for your time! I don't know why the prev. owner placed it on the front post? I moved it to the center post tonight but need to bleed the system before I can drive it.

I'm guessing he plumbed the lines correctly as the brakes seemed to work pretty well with nothing that felt like it was messed up. (Other than the warning light comming on whenever you pressed the brake)

The plumbing is not as pictured above but I know different years/valves were plumbed differently also.
 
Bleed the brakes tonight and they work awsome. Damn light still came on!
 
Thanks Kernal, that's exactly what I've got going on here. My stupid light still comes on when the wire is connected to the top. It's ticking me off so I took it off. Not sure I need a light to tell me my brakes are not working!
 
Why do I recall the one the end to be a reset button of sorts.
To push that button re-centers the plunger under the switch ?
Failing memory sux. :(
Maybe it was pull the button. Maybe this is a Ford thing.
 
QWK FSH said:
I bought my 68 cuda after it had been converted to 74-76 manual disc up front. I believe they switched the prop valve from the donor car as well. The brake warning light has always came on when I apply the brakes. I have the cast style prop valve as seen in the picture. My warning light wire is connected to the front post on the prop valve. Is this correct or does it go on the center post.

Thanks
Click to expand...

The front "post" is not an electrical connection. Its the end of the plunger that moves to turn the light on and off. Way back in the day, MOPAR shop mechanics had a special tool to lock the plunger in place while bleeding the brakes. I used to have one but only God knows where it is now. The top post is where the ground wire goes. Some of the other posts give you the procedure to center the valve.

Larry
 
No I didn't, I'm running with the light disconnected. Pisses me off to, I spent so much time restoring a bunch of wiring.
 
fredsmedina said:
well thats too bad. but like you said before. you should be able to tell if your brakes aren't working..

I started this thread http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=85164


the tip to just stomp on the brake pedal a few times seemed to fix my problem. light is off now..
Click to expand...

Did you stomp the pedal with either of the bleeder screws open? I checked out your thread and am thinking I tried most of those things last year but could try it again this year.
 
QWK FSH said:
Did you stomp the pedal with either of the bleeder screws open? I checked out your thread and am thinking I tried most of those things last year but could try it again this year.
Click to expand...
I ended up being able to just stomp it back into place. no need to even open up a bleeder
 
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