Brakes better work now

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Dart swinger 73

Dart swinger 73

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I would have saved a lot of time and trouble if I only did this in the first place. I bought a new booster and master cylinder " chrome" and proportion valve. Now everything is new in the brake system. Except for the main brake lines. I did blow air through the lines after I vacuumed the fluid out of them. I have to paint the compartment again. Spilt to much Dot 3.I washed it with soap and water, sanded it washed it again. It's been raining here for 3 day's. Maybe I can prime it and paint it tomorrow.:coffee2:
 
That's why I switched to DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. It doesn't destroy paint, doesn't absorb moisture and won't expand under normal abuse. With a completely new system, it was a no-brainer.
 
That is the way to approach theses old cars; so much can be worng in the individual brake compoenents that a full R&R ususally works best. I even replaced all the lines in my '62. Glad it is all better.
 
Can anybody help me out. I bought a new Tuiff-Stuff brake booster and master cylinder. I'm having the hardest time mounting it. I stopped. It shouldn't be that hard. I connected the rod to the brake pedal. The 4 bolts on the firewall were about a 1/2" away from the bolt holes on the bracket. That's about 2" Do they make a mounting bracket for this converision and where would I buy it? :coffee2:
 
I lost you on 1/2" = 2". Remove your brake lamp switch and see if it will bolt up then. If so, but you then can't install the switch, or the pedal is too high for your preference, you need a shorter brake rod. If your rod was from a manual MC (post 5), it will definitely be too long.

Post a photo (or link) of this Tuiff-Stuff (sp?) setup so we know what you are dealing with.
 
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