Brakes/Coilover advice please

-
M

moparfreak77

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2006
Messages
567
Reaction score
2
Location
Ontario Canada
Debating on what to do on the front end of my 68 Valiant. I have 9" drums now but the front suspension needs a rebuild so I want to swap to discs at the same time. I do have the front disc brake setup for a 77 Aspen(spindles/rotors/calipers/hoses) but I dont want to put on used junk so that means by the time i use those parts as cores, i have $300 into the rotors/calipers/hoses/pads plus I still need a proportioning valve, bearings, seals, master cylinder and anything else I forgot.
The kits you buy (Wilwood, PST) seem expensive at the time but I think that may be the way to go.
Or have seen the Wilwood caliper mounts to bolt on the stock spindle. I heard these calipers dont have dust seals, will that be a big problem for the street?
Also, have been debating on a "cheap" coilover setup, stock k-member deal. Can I use coilovers on my stock LCA's?
thanks guys
 
Go to search and punch in Dillinger Chassis,he,s a member here that sells coilover parts for conversions.Good luck.
Also I bought all my disc brake setup stuff(Calipers,pads,hoses)from CarQuest.You can buy an adjustable proportioning valve at most Parts stores.Just sayin..
 
If your will to spend a little money I would HIGHLY recommend contacting Hemidenny about his front end conversion. Way less then anyone else's set-up and the kind of personal attention you won't get anywhere else.
 
moparfreak77 said:
Can I use coilovers on a stock LCA?
Click to expand...

You can but i wouldn't recommend it. The stock LCA uses a combination of the K-member, the torsion bar, and the strut rod for support. The whole purpose of the coil over setup is to scrap the torsion bars and reduce weight. if you remove the torsion bars you also weaken the rear pivot point for the LCA. New LCA's made for the coil over setup puts a mounting tab on the front and rear of the mount, vastly improving the strength and integrity of the LCA.

If anything is worth doing, IT"S WORTH DOING RIGHT!

Good luck with your project :glasses7:
 
The bolt through the torsion bar socket into the pivot pin (as I have seen it) removes the bushing form the twisting equation. Lots of reasons to NOT do this. You aren't saving much weight. Yes, there is more room for headers and it is easier to tune the suspension with different springs, but it's not hard to change bars, either.
 
Jim Lusk said:
The bolt through the torsion bar socket into the pivot pin (as I have seen it) removes the bushing form the twisting equation. Lots of reasons to NOT do this. You aren't saving much weight. Yes, there is more room for headers and it is easier to tune the suspension with different springs, but it's not hard to change bars, either.
Click to expand...

If you weld up the socket to the arm and use a poly bushing, it'll still rotate on the bushing. Just gotta make sure to support the back end somehow. I've got a thick piece of aluminum bolted to a bracket on the frame. Then where the bolt goes through the thick retaining washer into the pivot shaft, I've got a bronze bushing. The whole thing operates very smoothly and rotates on the poly bushing and the bronze bushing on the back end.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top