Brakes for my drag car.

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MOPARMAGA

MOPARMAGA

" The other hard member"
FABO Gold Member
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I have gotten to the point in my build where I need to build my brake lines.
I have strange 4 piston lightweight brakes up front and dana 60, 11 by 2ish.
I'll be using braided stainless flex hoses up front. 3/16 hard-line.
I will need to do the same for the differential.
My question is what should I use for proportioning valves ???
Factory 73 & up drum to disc
Or do I need to go a different direction?
I have fairly skinny tires in the front 28 by 4.5
Don't need most of my brake power up there when my big contact patch is in back.
What should I do, remember I'm asking for a drag car only I'm expecting 135 mph from the car
 
I don't want to be responsible for you braking at 135 MPH but I personally would install an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line and go from there.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I have gotten to the point in my build where I need to build my brake lines.
I have strange 4 piston lightweight brakes up front and dana 60, 11 by 2ish.
I'll be using braided stainless flex hoses up front. 3/16 hard-line.
I will need to do the same for the differential.
My question is what should I use for proportioning valves ???
Factory 73 & up drum to disc
Or do I need to go a different direction?
I have fairly skinny tires in the front 28 by 4.5
Don't need most of my brake power up there when my big contact patch is in back.
What should I do, remember I'm asking for a drag car only I'm expecting 135 mph from the car
Click to expand...
Run as much hard line as possible! Here is a pic showing how I ran a Tee to cross-over to the pass side. Then flex to the calipers from tabs on the frame. Make sure you avoid any binding or entangling over all movements when routing 'flex' lines.

60plumWIR.jpg
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I have gotten to the point in my build where I need to build my brake lines.
I have strange 4 piston lightweight brakes up front and dana 60, 11 by 2ish.
I'll be using braided stainless flex hoses up front. 3/16 hard-line.
I will need to do the same for the differential.
My question is what should I use for proportioning valves ???
Factory 73 & up drum to disc
Or do I need to go a different direction?
I have fairly skinny tires in the front 28 by 4.5
Don't need most of my brake power up there when my big contact patch is in back.
What should I do, remember I'm asking for a drag car only I'm expecting 135 mph from the car
Click to expand...
This pic has caused much controversy in debating where to use the prop valve but, it works for me (like a positraction diff)

mcLLp.JPG
 
I have used Baer, Wilwood and SSBC with good results. I like the Baer "remaster" master cylinder and it's accompanying proportioning valve the most. Naturally, this is the most expensive solution.

Honestly, I set each on in the middle and didn't really feel the need to change the setting. I think the 73-76 manual disc or 68-69 manual disc master is a good choice. The 73-76 master is reproduced in aluminum if you want to be a sneaky.

I also like to use CuNi brake line instead of steel. Most of my reasoning for thhis is quality control. You can see how uneven the wall thickness is in steel tubing by closely examining the concentricity of the double flare.
 
ValiantS said:
This pic has caused much controversy in debating where to use the prop valve but, it works for me (like a positraction diff)
Click to expand...
When I was a kid I had one right under my dash so I could shut off the rears for burnouts lol. You could route it in the trunk as well for accessibility.
 
Kendog 170 said:
When I was a kid I had one right under my dash so I could shut off the rears for burnouts lol. You could route it in the trunk as well for accessibility.
Click to expand...
I was quoting a ?funny/famous? scene from the movie Joe Dirt. I maybe should have more fully typed; It's like the positraction on a Plymouth...it just works.
 
Like ValiantS I have a Summit adj prop valve inline with the rear brakes, running Willwood up front and factory drums in the rear. Mounted the prop valve to the inner fender well by the shock tower.
 
Kendog 170 said:
I don't want to be responsible for you braking at 135 MPH but I personally would install an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line and go from there.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I might add it's a short shut down lane also.
 
I forgot to mention, with my strange front brake kit I also ordered the 15/16 bore aluminum master cylinder and a strange proportioning valve.
Are you guys only using the adjustable prop valve or still using any of the factory prop valve with the adjustable
 
Okay, I think I have a plan after talking it over with another member. Thanks guys
Rear brakes directly to the master cylinder.
Front brakes with proportioning valve to the front.
Works great for him and I trust that.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Okay, I think I have a plan after talking it over with another member. Thanks guys
Rear brakes directly to the master cylinder.
Front brakes with proportioning valve to the front.
Works great for him and I trust that.
Click to expand...
Just so you know, I had to have the adj prop valve to my rears to avoid rear lockup, your results may differ from mine.
 
tjpatte said:
Just so you know, I had to have the adj prop valve to my rears to avoid rear lockup, your results may differ from mine.
Click to expand...
Okay thanks, I'll be definitely doing some brake testing before I head out to the track.
 
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