Brakes leaking within 200 miles-dot5 fluid

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74360duster

JEREMY
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I recently put abody discs on my 1967 coronet. Manual brakes. New rear brakes and wheel cylinders. Flushed the system and filled with dot5 silicone fluid. Doesn't draw moisture supposed to be better. I did this in feb. Has about 200 miles on them. Last week rear brakes started leaking. Parked on lift. Fixed yesterday. Bleeding brakes. And the front calipers blow. Now they are shot. Is it the fluid? Or did I get 2-faulty wheel cylinders and 2-faulty brake calipers?
Do I switch back to dot3?
Replace the hoses now! Any ideas????
 
I've had Dot5 in my system since 1999.No problems, front is 70Duster KH4piston,and rear is rebuilt 69 Barracuda 10x 2s. M/C is a rebuilt,15/16 dual.
What did you use for a flushing agent?

The line to the rear should have a residual valve at the M/C, or an energizer spring in the wheel cylinder. Either system works to keep the W/C cups pressed tight to their bores
 
You cannot simply flush the system when converting to DOT5. I don't know why in the hell anybody thinks they need DOT 5 anyway. Unless it's specifically required from the factory, there's absolutely no need for it.

To do a conversion properly, every piece of the brake system should be either disassembled and thoroughly cleaned and reassembled......or replaced. DOT5 cannot be mixed with any other fluid type. Not even one single trace, or you end up with results like yours.
 
Ok. It was new master cylinder. Calipers. Hoses rear wheel cylinders.
Guess I'll be switching back.
It's good for vehicles that sit long periods without moving. Dads 64 sport fury has had it for last 20 yrs with no problems
 
To me, the attraction of DOT 5 is that it won't strip the paint and cause rust on my brand new, freshly painted M/C (or the firewall/inner fenders, for that matter).

I know, cosmetics, but still...
 
Its not the fluid. Something is not tight enough, or you recieved some bad parts.
 
Thanks. It's just crazy all 4 started leaking at same time coming out around pistons in calipers. And wheel cylinders leaking. And I mean big leaks. Not seepage

Yah, that doesnt sound right. Sounds like you have some bad calipers.
 
I'm betting.... parts store calipers and wheel cylinders?

It's NOT the fluid and no, you don't need to jump through a bunch of hoops to switch one way or the other. I'm curious to see who has seen first hand the problems that everybody claims but nobody seems to have proof of. I switched mine years ago and it's better than it would be after sitting with DOT3!

My first guess would be rebuilt or reman parts that have Chinese/otherwise low grade seals in them.
 
And where exactly are the op's parts springing those leaks?
 
I've had Dot5 in my system since 1999.No problems, front is 70Duster KH4piston,and rear is rebuilt 69 Barracuda 10x 2s. M/C is a rebuilt,15/16 dual.
What did you use for a flushing agent?

The line to the rear should have a residual valve at the M/C, or an energizer spring in the wheel cylinder. Either system works to keep the W/C cups pressed tight to their bores

I use dot 5 in everything we have. Some sit for years, go to use any of them and they work like new. I've been using it since the 80's. Earliest was the 68 383 Fastback Barracuda with K-H 4 piston calipers and OEM drums in the rear. I can't see it being the fluid.
 
Could the master cylinder have "too much ***" and cause the seals to blow?

Or cheap quality seals in them....
 
If DOT 5 is so great how come none of the high performance fluids on the market are DOT5? I was always curious. Does DOT 5 have a lower boiling point?
 
Main draw for me is lack of caustic properties, does not remove paint, and does not absorb moisture.
 
Parts store parts. Dad has had dot 5 in his sport fury for years. It sat 10yrs untouched. Fired it up no leaks. Work great. Mine all new/reman parts don't last 200miles and on car since feb. 15. Kinda crazy all 4 leak at same time.
 
Converted all my cars but 2 w/ ABS to silicone. The Newport was ~1990's and not a spot of internal rust since. Much mis-info here. Post #4 relates the long-standing myth spouted by every counterman that bad things happen if silicone touches glycol. Search for a web article by an engineer who tested this and found it absurd. Post #14 questions performance. DOT 5 officially refers to a higher performance standard, not to silicone fluid. Only recently could any glycol fluids meet it. DOT required they label it "5.1" to not confuse with silicone, since it still has the bad properties of moisture absorption and paint removal. Also, I think many performance motorcycles come w/ DOT 5 (silicone).

The OP wonders if silicone is worse for seals. Unlikely, since some 1950's British cars required silicone since glycol damaged their seals. No idea why you have leaks. I wonder if the wheel cylinders and calipers rusted internally while sitting on the shelf. Rust is the most likely thing to cause seal leaks.

No dissenters mentioned the oft-stated "if water drips into your reservoir, silicone won't absorb it so it will sit at the bottom and cause rust". Wouldn't that be the same issue for your power steering fluid or transmission? Don't let water drip into any of them.

Many, who have never used it, claim silicone gives a spongy pedal. I never noticed that. Do pour it carefully down the side of a funnel so you don't entrain air bubbles or you could have that problem. If you drop the bottle, allow a day for the air bubbles to settle out. Don't fret when you see it turn amber later. The blue dye just fades.
 
It's no parts store myth, Bill. I have almost 30 years under my belt as a mechanic. You cannot mix dot5 with any of the rest. Period.

Yall do what you want. I really don't care. It's not my car.

But if yall really think that leaking from everything that has a seal is simply "cheap parts store parts" yall are a lot more ignorant than I thought.

I am outta here. Yall have fun.


Converted all my cars but 2 w/ ABS to silicone. The Newport was ~1990's and not a spot of internal rust since. Much mis-info here. Post #4 relates the long-standing myth spouted by every counterman that bad things happen if silicone touches glycol. Search for a web article by an engineer who tested this and found it absurd. Post #14 questions performance. DOT 5 officially refers to a higher performance standard, not to silicone fluid. Only recently could any glycol fluids meet it. DOT required they label it "5.1" to not confuse with silicone, since it still has the bad properties of moisture absorption and paint removal. Also, I think many performance motorcycles come w/ DOT 5 (silicone).

The OP wonders if silicone is worse for seals. Unlikely, since some 1950's British cars required silicone since glycol damaged their seals. No idea why you have leaks. I wonder if the wheel cylinders and calipers rusted internally while sitting on the shelf. Rust is the most likely thing to cause seal leaks.

No dissenters mentioned the oft-stated "if water drips into your reservoir, silicone won't absorb it so it will sit at the bottom and cause rust". Wouldn't that be the same issue for your power steering fluid or transmission? Don't let water drip into any of them.

Many, who have never used it, claim silicone gives a spongy pedal. I never noticed that. Do pour it carefully down the side of a funnel so you don't entrain air bubbles or you could have that problem. If you drop the bottle, allow a day for the air bubbles to settle out. Don't fret when you see it turn amber later. The blue dye just fades.
 
One time, I accidentally added the wrong type fluid into a semi-transparent motorcycle reservoir,that was a little low.Well I saw right away that something was amiss, as the fluid sank to the bottom of the reservoir in a glob. It looked similar to adding water to gasoline.I don't recall which was which. I do recall having to clean up the mess.
 
AJ, perhaps you noticed that fact that glycol and silicone don't mix. They also don't react chemically. The main problem in leaving any glycol fluid when changing to silicone is that you will have globs of glycol that may contain absorbed water which can cause rust. Since glycol is cheap, I would first flush thru new glycol, as you should do every 3 yrs anyway. That is if doing a redneck swap-over. When I have changed to silicone it has always been when putting in new wheel cylinders, etc and flushing all the tubes w/ ethanol then blowing air thru and waiting days to dry. Once on silicone, no need to ever flush fluid and no more internal rust or leaking cylinders.
 
when i switched over years ago i flushed the system with alcohol like was recommended to me by a very trusted tech. got the purest type i could find at the store.

have never had an issue with the system at all.
 
I work in OEM brakes and we do not allow the use of the Silcone brake fluid in anything. It may not be compatible with some of the EPDM parts in you braking system. Usually brake fluid has agents in it to both keep the rubber soft and help them seal. The stuff also has really unstable compressiblity so it's not so repeatable.

Use Dot 3/4/5.1 glycol from a good name brand. ATE SL.6 is probably some of the best stuff but ideally you'd want something with a good boiling point...
 
Its not the fluid. Something is not tight enough, or you recieved some bad parts.

Agreed, Dad n I converted from Dot 3 to Dot 5 his factory disc brake(non pwr) fronts, and drum rear 67 Cuda. We had a leaking MC that stripped paint. Leak was not caused by fluid, but the bubbled paint was. While I had MC out and fixed the leaked, we bled the brakes and put in Dot 5. We did as basic a bleed job as can be. Simply bled them all 4 in proper sequence until the Purple Dot 5 was there. NO issues, NO leaks.
I believe something else is the problem. Good luck.
 
Silicone/DOT5 seal incompatibility is b.s. plain and simple. Bout six or seven years ago, harley switched from DOT5 to 4. The part number for the master cylinder changed but nothing else did.

Why?

Because the master cylinder LABEL changed. ALL internal parts remain the same. AND now their paint on their master cylinders bubble and peel.

I like how rusty states his unfounded fears without any shred of proof, empirical or otherwise, and rolls out. That's what makes the world go round!

I guess he never used the seal lube that comes in a rebuild kit..... it's silicone!
 
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