Brakes stickin after brake job

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Im pulling rear tire and drums.
Im sure the pattern is 5-4.5
Will show drum difference with pic they installed
Thanks again
 
Just so you can double check.
 

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LOL, Mustang 8.75? flat chuck piston's? posive steel axel? and now you let some place **** up your car because some kid that learned how to do brakes on a Honda civic didn't know what he was doing, come on man, you really need to educate yourself so you can see through the bullshit or take someone with you that's knows something, hope you get it figured out, I wish you lived closer to me because I would help you out, I can't stand seeing this kind of ****
 
Lol, ^^^, yeah it happens. As long as the OP sticks with the thread, the fine folks here can get him through it.

At the very least he can get some good info to possibly guide the shop in the proper direction.
 
torkflight said:
LOL, Mustang 8.75? flat chuck piston's? posive steel axel? and now you let some place **** up your car because some kid that learned how to do brakes on a Honda civic didn't know what he was doing, come on man, you really need to educate yourself so you can see through the bullshit or take someone with you that's knows something, hope you get it figured out, I wish you lived closer to me because I would help you out, I can't stand seeing this kind of ****
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Yea felling pretty stupid about letting someone do a brake job for me because I wanted it done right and don't know enough about it myself.
I love older cars and will learn but my first experience has taught me a valuable lesson and humiliation.
And the humiliation continues .
Thanks
 
DaDuke said:
Yea felling pretty stupid about letting someone do a brake job for me because I wanted it done right and don't know enough about it myself.
I love older cars and will learn but my first experience has taught me a valuable lesson and humiliation.
And the humiliation continues .
Thanks
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No need to be humiliated or feel stupid, everyone has to start somewhere.

If you aren't familiar with them the best thing I can suggest is to get a Factory Service Manual, as RRR says, NOT a Chiltons or Haynes manual, lol.

I have no idea what that axle is, it's completely foreign to what's in mine, maybe that's what he meant by Mustang.

Here's what an original axle looks like.
 

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the rear brakes appear to be standard mopar stuff, the axle looks to be strange---
so you have an 8 3/4 rear with 8.25 rear brakes-- meaning brakes for your car would work just fine-- tell them it has an 8 1/4" rear end.
 
VDART said:
the rear brakes appear to be standard mopar stuff, the axle looks to be strange---
so you have an 8 3/4 rear with 8.25 rear brakes-- meaning brakes for your car would work just fine-- tell them it has an 8 1/4" rear end.
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Lawrence, you think that axle is out of an 8 1/4?
 
I could be wrong? but the left drum, the one with the fins, looks like a drum from a ford 9" rearend, and those are strange axles with screw in studs
 
Those are Strange Engineering aftermarket axles; available for the Mopar 8-3/4' and have been drilled for 2 stud patterns or stud spline sizes.

http://www.strangeengineering.net/make-and-model/mopar/axle-packages-components/axle-only.html.

That sure is a Mopar PN on the center section. So I suspect the seller did not know what he was talking about.

Check your bolt pattern per the info above and be sure of the bolt pattern size. Then chekck the fit of the old drums.

I would ditch these guys; they are going to make it right so they avoid any reputation problems .... which they fully deserve. They probaly CAN do tires OK. But the idea of using the washers ON A SHOP SERVICED CAR is absolutely idiotic and beyond belief or acceptability, and shows amazing ignorance and no professional orientation whatsoever.

And please don't be humiliated; it's is just learning and just money, not your self-worth here. We've ALL been down this road a time or 2. This is one of the best, most helpful groups on the www, so you're in a good place.
 
Looks like one bell style drum and the new one not, and the bell drum for 2.25 wide shoes and the new drum for 2 inch shoes. (I could be wrong)
I'm not super familiar with rearends and the different drums, but I would say to get another bell drum and 2 new auto brake adjuster cables and you should be set.

I'm with torkflight on this one, as I too hate seeing people get charged for hack jobs.
There's just NO friggin way it is acceptable for a shop to use parts that are different on the same end of the car.
Even if someone that really knew what they were doing changed things out with different parts, it still should have the same exact parts for both front brakes, and the same exact parts on both the rear brakes.
I also wouldn't give that shop a damn dime, no matter how nice they are.
They could have literally killed you with that ****. (I'M SERIOUS)

That new drum they shimmed on there with washers also left your brake parts exposed to a rock or other debris getting in there and making them fail.
 
Well, I'm still curious as to where the guy that sold it to him came up with the Mustang crap. That's clearly all Mopar.
 
Sounds like the mystery is gradually getting solved. Pictures are always a great help when doing things by remote control.

To the OP, that cut cable and spring are part of the self adjust set up. It clicks the little ratchet wheel on the self adjust screw mechanism. You would think for all that was charged for this brake job they could have put in new hardware kits and replaced all those little hardware bits. Another good reason to do these jobs yourself.
 
Pete in NH said:
Sounds like the mystery is gradually getting solved. Pictures are always a great help when doing things by remote control.

To the OP, that cut cable and spring are part of the self adjust set up. It clicks the little ratchet wheel on the self adjust screw mechanism. You would think for all that was charged for this brake job they could have put in new hardware kits and replaced all those little hardware bits. Another good reason to do these jobs yourself.
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They should have, those kits aren't that expensive.
 
Bad Sport said:
Well, I'm still curious as to where the guy that sold it to him came up with the Mustang crap. That's clearly all Mopar.
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I had a friend sell a car to a car shop guy in Richmond VA, and the shop guy turned around to sell it, all the while representing himseldf by name as my friend. He just did not want to re-title the car, so he lied about who he was and signed the papers falsely. There are all sorts of fools and slimeballs out there.

Let's keep in mind that, per the OP, the shop took the info on the Mustang rear from the OP. So they were sorta directed down this path. But they sure show no sense of checking behind the customer for the sake of safety and covering all the bases, and no adequate knowledge of what they are working on.

So to the OP: Are you going to tackle this yourself? (Best solution IMO.) It really IS a fairly straightfoward process and there will be plenty of good advice coming here.
 
DaDuke said:
So $700 into a bad brake job and I'm hearing I should turn and run and I need to fix the brakes myself??
The manager is not giving up he's actually pretty cool saying they will figure this out no matter what.
I thought for sure it was a simple pad and turn brake job but has turned into much more...:eek:ops:
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Yeah, but at this point, I would get a refund from the Neanderthals and fix it myself.
 
No offense to the OP when I say any of this.

Once again, this thread proves a lot of my points sometimes. These cars have been made for DECADES. You never know what's been done. I assumed we were talking about a small bolt pattern drum brake car. They did come with small bolt pattern and drums all around all they way through 1976.

It helps if that info is stated in the BEGINNING instead of halfway through. It doesn't just help US, it helps YOU get the right information.

But now we also find out the car has had a rear axle swapped into it that it never could have come with it. What was the last year for the 8.75 in an A body? 1972 if memory serves.

This thread should serve as notice to people looking for help. Give us all the info you possibly can.

Thank you drive through.
 
Bad Sport said:
lol
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That's actually WAY more polite that what I would be refering to them as.

I thought I was pissed over the tire shop changing a tire and jacking my right rear corner up in the air two feet, burying the left front wheel up inside the fender.
I did calm down enough to explain to raise one whole end at a time before I talked to them though.
 
Okay thanks guys, I have much more knowledge now and figuring out (I think) they installed the wrong shoes and drums?
That still doesn't explain the front brakes locking up on my way home from there...
Does anyone know what else besides wrong master cylinder or clogged brake lines would make the front disc brakes lock and smoke if they did nothing except bleed the lines??
Again thanks for your help.

Billy Duke
 
DaDuke said:
Okay thanks guys, I have much more knowledge now and figuring out (I think) they installed the wrong shoes and drums?
That still doesn't explain the front brakes locking up on my way home from there...
Does anyone know what else besides wrong master cylinder or clogged brake lines would make the front disc brakes lock and smoke if they did nothing except bleed the lines??
Again thanks for your help.

Billy Duke
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It's possible they reinstalled the calipers wrong and they cannot slide properly. I have seen supposedly "experienced" brake shops that did not know calipers are supposed to slide or float. All of that area must be properly greased too so that it does not bind.

I cannot imagine both hoses would cause this at the same time, but I suppose it's possible. "I" would suspect an incorrect master cylinder where the piston travel was incorrect and the master cylinder was "applied" just enough to make the front brakes tight. But again, that's just a guess through the internet.

I see you're in Jacksonville. I am just outside of Macon, Georgia.If you get fed up with dumbasses, truck that joker up here. I'll fix it for you and won't rape your eyes out.
 
DaDuke said:
Okay thanks guys, I have much more knowledge now and figuring out (I think) they installed the wrong shoes and drums?
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What happens with either drum when you put it on without the washers on there?

Is there a gap with the silver one, does the black one rub the backing plate?

Shoes: Measure the width of the shoe pad, measure the contact pattern inside the drum that was on the car when you got it, and the other too.


Can you explain a bit about the front discs?

Were the pads worn down to metal?

Did they replace the calipers? If so, are the bleeders on top or on the bottom?


Here is something to check on the discs if you want to take a minute. Jack up one front wheel, apply the brakes with some firm pressure and release. Now, try and turn the wheel, does it turn? Easy or with resistance?

Repeat other side.

If all they did was bleed them it's possible the rubber lines have collapsed on the inside and do not allow the fluid to return as quickly as it should, holding pressure on the pads.
 
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