Break time

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draginmopars

draginmopars

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Finally quit raining on race night

So, took a break from working on the 72 dart.
Took the 70 more door to the track

have been running 6.84 @ 30* timing

Decided to bump the timing to 34*

95*.... track temp 130*

spinning the tires> new 325-50 x 15
let air down more to 16lbs

buddy says still spinning/smoking the right rear/ half track

I say NO Way> spool

car has slowed to 7.13
I thought it was due to the hot outside temp/ track

next pass
smoke pours out of the car, at the end of the track

load up go home
pull plugs... right side # 4 don't look good> oil

001_zps8g5dlewj.jpg


pulled the valve cover still can't see anything

next morning, pull the head

at least it wasn't a piston
#6 was also pushing the gasket

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Felpro 1008

didn't hurt the head
still gonna make a very light cut to be sure it's flat

018_zpshtvetak5.jpg


Wonder if I should go to a MLS head gasket
comp is 14-1
running E85

Break time is over
Time to pull the other side

also while the heads are off
gonna verify the timing mark is correct on the balancer
 
while you have the heads off you might want to consider O-rings. mls is the least you should do for your compression ratio. did you use the proper torque value for the lubricant you used.
 
bOb shingler said:
while you have the heads off you might want to consider O-rings. mls is the least you should do for your compression ratio. did you use the proper torque value for the lubricant you used.
Click to expand...

Hi, Bob,
yes, ARP Studs @ 95lbs, with supplied lube.

engine has 52 passes
I really think I need a timing retard for the launch
is why I set it at 30*
anything more, blows the tires off @ 4500
Calvert shocks helped, it stopped "leap frogin"
need to work on that some more

went from 275-60 to 325-50
but couldn't tell due to this recent issue and the heat

also need to lean it @ 10.74 (gas scale)
get to mid to high 11's

the driver's side head gasket was fine
 
3 week wait for MLS gaskets, in my bore and thickness

so, went back to 1008 until they come in

Horses are chompin at the bit to get back to the track

LOL
 
I might change my name to

"Parts Breaker"

rain finally stopped to be able to go racing

First pass felt like spun the tires , engine revved

Second pass,watched tach, engine went to 7, car left slow

got to trailer, stall check>>> 7 grand

time to pull the converter ( was 4500)

While the engine is out for a converter change

gonna put the 340 that is for the other swinger, in
for a few test passes
until I can get the converter back and o-ring the engine

009_zpsjlcpqjxx.jpg


1968 spec engine
268* solid flat tappet
3500 converter

004_zpstiuxgfra.jpg
 
Bigdummy said:
What about cosmetic gaskets?
Click to expand...

I may do that

Will have to see

Am going to lightly mill heads and block
see what I need for a gasket (thickness)

also going to retard the cam
to kill some bottom end

I don''t blame the converter,

I have been hard on it
"Leap Froggin"
trying to get the suspension dialed in
 
got the engines swapped
ready to go to the track

NOT

checked the schedule> track closed> Friday night

LOL
have to wait until Saturday

005_zpsbatft0uv.jpg
 
Bigdummy said:
What about cosmetic gaskets?
Click to expand...

got 27 runs on the cosmetic gaskets

Ended up using a set I had for another project, but they are .075 thick
the correct ones came in the next day,
after we had finished re installing the engine> figures LOL

now, we are back to playing with timing and shock settings, launch rpm



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c78abf90-c7d4-4b6c-8e9f-ec333677e52c_zpsblmvfyo5.jpg
 
FWIW. Along time ago, the guy that did my machine work (He does LOTS of Mopar engines.) told me to use studs and go to 120 ft-lbs. on small block Mopar heads. I'm running 12.5. Blew one head gasket, head was slightly warped, cleaned it up, used fel pro gaskets, And haven't had any problems for 30 years.
 
3402 said:
FWIW. Along time ago, the guy that did my machine work (He does LOTS of Mopar engines.) told me to use studs and go to 120 ft-lbs. on small block Mopar heads. I'm running 12.5. Blew one head gasket, head was slightly warped, cleaned it up, used fel pro gaskets, And haven't had any problems for 30 years.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that info
I do use studs in all engine builds
I did go to 100ft lbs.
I just wonder
how much more these old blocks can take before pulling the threads

For this engine, i don't want to go more
due to it was bored with torque plates @ 95 ft lbs.
don't want to dis-sort the bores
 
draginmopars said:
For this engine, i don't want to go more
due to it was bored with torque plates @ 95 ft lbs.
don't want to dis-sort the bores
Click to expand...

Hadn't even thought about that.
In my case, the guy that told me to go to 120 ft-lb was the one who honed it (with plates).
 
The snow ball got a heart transplant over the Winter

Current engine -pulled out to cut the pistons for more valve clearance, so i can advance the cam more.
put the thinner head gaskets on .040" vs .075" Cosmetic
and a few other items

after 3 years the W-2 stroker is ready
got the headers finished today, hope to fire it up tomorrow
after I finish with some Radiator mods.
also making a converter and rear gear change
since need new rear tires, going to a 315 x 60 et Pro

004_zpsjpxnpdoe.jpg


had to change the Hood due to No carb clearance
Lost its sleeper look.

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Getting ready to let these new horses run..lol
 
Et Pro Tires are on back order until May 19.
Plan "B"> put 275 Et Streets on temporary.

Got the Air pan for the cowl hood completed.
checking everything over
Ready to see what this engine will do.

 
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