So I see a fundamental issue here - I'm not supposed to take the car past 3500RPM for a while, right? Well, if I do that while driving down the road, I'm going to be in first gear the entire time. My shift points are at 3500RPM (first to second) and 4100RPM (second to third). What should I do?
breaking engine in?
- Thread starter sharpie
- Start date
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???...The motor I finished 2 weeks ago (410 roller motor), I seated the rings on a short drive to the gas station and back, changed the oil, and went racing 2 days later.
If you have a flat tappet cam, do the 20 minute break in procedure, take it for a short drive, change the oil and drive it.
If you have a flat tappet cam, do the 20 minute break in procedure, take it for a short drive, change the oil and drive it.
So mine's a full roller 5.9 Magnum. I don't know whether the rings have been seated satisfactorily. I've driven it about 40-50 minutes and maybe 5 miles so far.
I guess a question is, does those shift points sound a little high? How would I go about adjusting them?
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
I have seen different theories on this. Not saying this is right but....
When I had my Miata and was on the Miata forum we had a guy (Old drag racer and road racer) that said the only way to break in an engine was the way you were going to drive it.
He had a 340 Challenger that he got new and it had 280,000 miles on the engine without a rebuild.
We both got our 97 R Package Miatas (47 made) from the same dealer at about the same time.
He made it clear that the Miata could not have more than 5 miles on it at time of delivery. He broke it in the same way he did with every car... Idle to redline right from the start with an oil change after 500 miles.
Theory being... You want your rings to break in through the RPM range they will be used. Also.... If their is any problem in the engine you want it to show now not later.
I read a great article on this years ago and have used this process myself with no problems at all.
When I had my Miata and was on the Miata forum we had a guy (Old drag racer and road racer) that said the only way to break in an engine was the way you were going to drive it.
He had a 340 Challenger that he got new and it had 280,000 miles on the engine without a rebuild.
We both got our 97 R Package Miatas (47 made) from the same dealer at about the same time.
He made it clear that the Miata could not have more than 5 miles on it at time of delivery. He broke it in the same way he did with every car... Idle to redline right from the start with an oil change after 500 miles.
Theory being... You want your rings to break in through the RPM range they will be used. Also.... If their is any problem in the engine you want it to show now not later.
I read a great article on this years ago and have used this process myself with no problems at all.
Problem with the theory on the rings..they don't know how many rpms they are running. All they see is heat and load..... would you crank up an engine at -20 deg and put it on the floor??
The trick is to VARY the load and speed. And modern rings and engines are a lot better fitting than back in the day.
The trick is to VARY the load and speed. And modern rings and engines are a lot better fitting than back in the day.
71-440-Duster
Well-Known Member
There are a number of considerations when breaking in a new motor, of which you should always check with the manufactures tech line of the piston rings, pistons, cam shaft and lifters on the how to's.
Older piston cast rings needed a longer time to break in and seat properly, but newer moly rings usually seat almost immediately.
Generally cam and lifters need a good break in of 20 minutes of 3000-3500 rpm to break in. And some require starting at 2500 rpm and increasing 500rpm every 5 minutes until you get to 5000 then decreasing the same step until you get to 3000 rpm.
You should also ask them about the type of oil to use or break in additives. I use Comp Cams break in for my motors....
But, bottom line....ask the tech guys first!
Older piston cast rings needed a longer time to break in and seat properly, but newer moly rings usually seat almost immediately.
Generally cam and lifters need a good break in of 20 minutes of 3000-3500 rpm to break in. And some require starting at 2500 rpm and increasing 500rpm every 5 minutes until you get to 5000 then decreasing the same step until you get to 3000 rpm.
You should also ask them about the type of oil to use or break in additives. I use Comp Cams break in for my motors....
But, bottom line....ask the tech guys first!
Ohhhh, I thought you were asking about breaking in the motor...I'm no help with adjusting the transmission; I have a manual valve body in mine. Hopefully someone transmission savvy will chime in here in a minute.
Yes, the shift points sound high for a street car.
dodgetkboy78
EDELBROCK HEADS SUCK!
Uhm.
A quality hone, and a moly ring, and it is broken in before you can back it out of the garage............
I put 144,000 miles on a 318 that had Amsoil in it since start up.
As far as the cam, what they say is good for the cam, would be horrible for the rings, if you believe the ring story.
A quality hone, and a moly ring, and it is broken in before you can back it out of the garage............
I put 144,000 miles on a 318 that had Amsoil in it since start up.
As far as the cam, what they say is good for the cam, would be horrible for the rings, if you believe the ring story.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Ok on the shifting part. Back off your throttle pressure linkage adjustment (kickdown as some guys call it). That will make it shift sooner.
Does that mean I should I make it so the kickdown lever on the trans is not at full engagement on WOT? Or make it fully engage before WOT?
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
You want to adjust it so it doesn't pull the lever on the trans all the way at WOT. Just do it a little at a time until you get it where you want it.
How exactly do you break in a roller cam?
It requires nothing special, no special additives, nothing!
Break in periods are not necessary as long as the engine was machined with proper tolerances. The old break in was because the engine were machined with wide tolerances, both short and wide. You didn't want to go spinning something up if the tolerances were on the tight side.
New rings seat almost immediately.
I haven't broken an engine in since maybe the late 70's. Even my early 80's engines got the cam broken in if flat tappet, an oil change, check for leaks, then a 6-8K burnout in the street. Rollers didn't get anything else done after the rings seat.
It requires nothing special, no special additives, nothing!
Break in periods are not necessary as long as the engine was machined with proper tolerances. The old break in was because the engine were machined with wide tolerances, both short and wide. You didn't want to go spinning something up if the tolerances were on the tight side.
New rings seat almost immediately.
I haven't broken an engine in since maybe the late 70's. Even my early 80's engines got the cam broken in if flat tappet, an oil change, check for leaks, then a 6-8K burnout in the street. Rollers didn't get anything else done after the rings seat.
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