Broken bolt lug on 400 block

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notenoughcash

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Just got done pulling the 400 that came in my 74 swinger. Previous owner had swapped it in (not very cleanly I might add disgust). The lug on the bottom drivers side (below the starter) used for bolt to trans got broken off before I got to it, rust etc on the broken area. Before I bother to finish stripping the block down and send it out to be checked I wanted to get opinions on this being a long term issue. I can get a pic tonight if needed

I kinda think not as the starter bolts also provide clamping force in this general area.

Intentions are to build a 470CI stroker/727/D60 combo if that makes any difference

J
 
Oxy-acetylene will burn out the broken bolt and not touch the cast iron. Cean theads with a tap.
John
 
Bolt isn't stuck, it's the thru hole that is broken off the block, no way to put a bolt there anymore as it would have nothing to push against.
 
Nope, was long gone before I got the car it looks like, noticed it when I got under the car to remove the starter.

Of course now that I got the thing torn completely down, it's already been gone thru once (badly), one replacement rod, crank turned .020/.020, two rod bearings almost shot, one with a big grove cut in it by foreign material, haven't check the bore yet...

Off to get it cleaned and checked later this week
 
If this is for a big power build, I'd find another block. 400s are not hard to get nor expensive. It could be welded if you had the piece, but it adds a bit to the cost of rebuilding it. As a mild engine I'd say it's not a deal breaker so long as the dowel pins and the rest fo the stuff is in good shape. I've found one of those bolts missing before when they fell out and just cruising around it wasn't noticed. But if you plan to make some power, get a good block.
 
Yeah, thats what I thought, the target for this is 500+ at the rear wheels. And after further looking at the hack rebuild that was on this one, well, time to troll boneyards this Saturday

EDIT: since it's been quite sometime since I've had the pleasure of junkyard hunting for a complete engine, what would be considered a reasonable upper limit for a 400 ?

Thanks
 
I would fix it because I know a welder good enough. Some people are skiddish of welding cast iron, but he has been doing it 50 plus years. It can be done if you can find someone with the knowhow. It won't be cheap though, because cast iron has to be taken through cycles to weld properly or it will crack. Heat, weld, cool and over and over. If it is only in a clamping position as you say and it does not hold any pressure, I would trust a good repair. Of course, for the money it may cost, you might be ahead of the game to get another block, but it CAN be fixed.
 
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