Dad got this back when his dart was under warranty for his 69 340, but installed another mill. It's been well preserved over the years. Going to build it to put in the dart since the old motors showing it's age. The plan is blueprint the block decks, maybe a fresh hone, and replace rings and bearings with more modern materials. Install an NoS racer brown .528" solid cam I've got. Good timing set, and a hv oil pump. Will be using a set of X heads that were built by R&J performance many years ago. Re using a few parts like the milodon 8qt pan, headman big tube huslers. Stock valve covers, air cleaner, etc. Just like the engine it's replacing. Trying to use parts I have and make it look like the motor was never changed. The car is pretty much original. Stockish suspension, 4speed and 4.88 gear. It's went 11.88 on slicks with current combo. Has a weiand X Terminator and an old Holley 780. Any suggestions on a modern single plane and carb combo that might be an improvement? Running a recurved electronic distributor and crome box for 40 years with no problems. Anyone have any suggestions on this build to keep it simple, stock looking, with a little more snort? Not looking to go stroker or aftermarket pistons. The ones we've run for 40 years never had a problem and been way past 7 grand many times. Just trying to get the most out of this old factory stuff that we all know can run and last. Car don't see much strip time anymore, but gets a good workout a few times a year. Thanks for your input
Building a 0 mileage warranty 340 shortblock
- Thread starter Dartish
- Start date
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You'll probably get stuff like "put a modern cam in it blah blah blah....", but I LIKE it! That's old school to the BONE! I'm diggin it.
That's the whole point of it. Using old school parts that worked then and work now. Plus I already have them. Everyone says you need aluminum heads, this and that. The heads I'm using were ported and set up by R&j performance. Anyone that knows their work knows what they're capable of
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
machine hone with a torque plate. shiny finish, moly rings
Yeah there's gonna be some block prep, but the crank pistons and rods are staying. They're brand new, and the 40 yo motor I'm replacing proves they work. Along with the 273 rockers! Just wondering what good modern single plane to use. Probably time for a carb too
aaronk785
Well-Known Member
I love it. That's a good intake for your build. Would not change a thing. I'd do a DP carb for a 4 speed.
Probably gonna replace the 40 yo Hayes clucth and pressure plate too. Things worked great and never came thru the can.lol not sure what the hot street strip clutch is now days, and I sure as hell ain't going automatic
Don't use a modern one. Find a Holley Strip Dominator. badassary.
Yeah but you can run either.
Just remember, you don't need that stupid 1" thick adapter plate to run a Holley or Edelbrock. All you need is that thin plate from Edelbrock. It's like 12 bucks. 1/8 thick.It covers the secondary bulges and keeps them from leaking vacuum.
skrews
Well-Known Member
I'd roll with the intake you got. IMO there would be very little to be gained from another one.
Yea, I have one and I think that is the way to go.
It will better match his intent, I believe......and probably rival the modern stuff.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
The intake doesn't bother me. If you have some time, you can wait and see if Trick Flow is going to release their intake. It's a Strip Dominator copy with the flange corrected.
Also would suggest upgrading to a new carb with replaceable brass so you can actually tune the thing.
Other than that, what you are doing is cool as hell. I'd leave the 4.88's in there, and I doubt you'd find a cam that is much better than what you have.
Also would suggest upgrading to a new carb with replaceable brass so you can actually tune the thing.
Other than that, what you are doing is cool as hell. I'd leave the 4.88's in there, and I doubt you'd find a cam that is much better than what you have.
Oh I'm definitely leaving the 4.88 gear right where it's at. This car doesn't go on long trips anymore. That carbs been great. It's been on there for over 40 yes now. I'm thinking I'll probably use the 780 awhile when I install the engine, then switch to a double pump and work on the tune.
Any suggestions on an affordable clutch to put behind it? The Hayes has been in there for 40 years and has taken more then it's share of abuse. Might just see if they still make that one. Although I'm sure none of them are built like they were back then
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Clutch technology has come so far in 40 years it's not even in the same universe. Sadly, that comes with a price. If you're lucky 2k will get you a sintered iron disc, an adjustable pressure plate and an aluminum flywheel. That's another thing. The heavy FW should be a museum piece. All it does is beat the hell out of the tire.
The options (for me) aren't very good. Most guys have went to the diaphragm PP but I'm not a fan as you can't adjust it. Although one possible option is to call McLeod and see if they will build you a B&B/Long cover and use the best rag disc they have with 2200-2600 pounds of base pressure (depends on car weight) and live with replacing the disc every 75-100 runs. You could also call Cale at Black Magic Clutches and see if he will do you up a PP like that that has some adjustment to it. Of course, at that point, the costs are going to be close a sintered iron disc deal and that's much more reliable, uses much less plate load (I'm at about 875 pounds for driving on the street and at the track I'll knock it down to about 625 and a small amount of counterweight) and will last longer.
Not going to be much strip time anymore. Mostly just cruising with a heavy foot an the back roads, and showing the impoet and mustang kids how a funny looking antique car can wipe the smirk right off there face. Thanks for the info, but I think going the custom clutch route is a little overkill for this one. Like I said, the old Hayes has too many runs to count and it's still fine, just don't wanna put a 40yo clutch behind a fresh motor.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
If that's what your plan is, you can usually find a local friction supply shop that can easily rebuild the pressure plate you have and then just get a new disc. The disc is likely 100 bucks (I haven't bought a rag disc in decades) and I'd bet the rebuild on the PP is also under a hundred bucks. For what you are wanting that's what I'd look into.
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