Building a Dirt Track Car

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JGC403

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I have always wanted to build a dirt track car, now that I moved there is one only a couple of miles away. So now is the time to build a car, track is close by and my 1976 Duster is a little to far gone to restore.
They have an entry level class that I was going to build my car for but it looks like last year there were only 4 people in the class and this year no one is in it. So the next level up is what they call Modified Street.

Track is a 4/10 mile long, high banked 32 degrees. Top cars in this class are running around 15 second laps.

This class has unlimited engine, only need to have cast iron heads and block, one carb, no dry sump. Cars have to weight either 2,800 or 3,000 lbs based on tires.
2,800 if you are running DOT street tread tire or 3,000lbs if running used late model tire.

How much power do I need to be competitive and is it worth the 200lbs weight penalty to run late model tire or keep it light and run street tires?

I'm figuring on using a 833 transmission and a B-body 8 &3/4 rear with a spool, not sure on gears. Mopar rear leaf springs, probably use sliders since the rules allow.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Rules:
MODIFIED STREET


*** Beginning Friday, May 6, 2016 – Steel Head Late Model and Sportsman Late Model drivers may also compete in Modified Street, but you must have two different race cars. You’ll be required to buy an extra pit pass (driver only) if competing in two classes.

80-1 … BODY

a. Any full-size, rear-wheel drive passenger automobile or pickup truck (any year) with a minimum 104 inch wheel-base. No station wagons, convertibles or T-top vehicles permitted. Must be street type cars, no clip cars.

b. Tubular asphalt Late Model Stock Car chassis permitted.

c. All cars/trucks must remain stock appearing from front to rear.

d. Steel, composite or aluminum body panels will be permitted (rear may be left open).

e. Aftermarket stock appearing plastic nose pieces are permitted.

f. All doors must be welded shut.

g. The interior must be completely gutted.

h. All glass and trim must be removed.

i. Hood and trunk must be fastened with hood pins.

j. Inner fenders can be removed in front only.

k. No bracing of any item allowed.

l. 8 inch maximum rear spoiler permitted.

80-2 … SAFETY

a. Aluminum racing seat required.

b. Five-point racing harness required mounted to cage. Must be within two years of manufacture and label must be attached.

c. Driving suit, top and bottoms required.

d. Driving gloves required.

e. Working fire extinguisher required, within reach of driver.

f. Fuel cells required and mounted properly in center of trunk. Sixteen (16) gallon maximum.

g. Battery must be located either/or – on the right side of the floor or recommended behind driver. Must be securely fastened and enclosed in a battery box.

h. Drive shaft must have two loops, front and rear, 1/4 inch x 2 inch. Drive shaft must be painted white.

i. Three bars in front of driver at windshield location. 1/8 inch x 1 inch.

j. A roll cage is required using (minimum) 1 1/2 inch x .095 roll bar tubing. Four-point cage (minimum) with front loop required, but six-point cage highly recommended. Must have minimum four (4) door bars at driver’s side and three (3) passenger door bars. Doors may be hulled out for bars. All bars within drivers reach must be padded. Recommend (not required) steel or aluminum plate over driver’s side door bars. A protective bar (minimum 1 1/2 inches in diameter) must be located around inside the rear trunk area and below the rear frame section behind the fuel cell.

k. Steel firewall between driver and rear fuel cell.

l. Window net required.

80-3 … SUSPENSION

*** Attention Modified Street competitors: According to VIC HILL – third link (or pull-bar) cannot be mounted any more forward than back of drivers seat. … Make sure your race car conforms!!!

a. Stock type rear suspension, three (3) or four (4) link permitted. Can have heim and tube trailing arms. No chaining permitted.

b. Screw jacks permitted (not required).

c. Racing springs and shocks permitted, may be relocated. Non-adjustable shocks only! Coil overs allowed. Leaf spring cars may have sliders.

d. Frame height must be minimum of 5 1/2 inches. However, a 1/2 inch tolerance will be permitted.

e. Stock steering box or rack (No late model type racks). May use quick release steering wheel with steering column in stock location.

80-4 … TRANSMISSION

a. Either stock, Bert or Brinn transmissions permitted. Must have reverse gear.

80-5 … EXHAUST

a. Headers are permitted!!! With headers being allowed, please take note that no turn-down headers will be permitted. Open headers are allowed, but the pipes can’t be turned down toward the racing surface.

80-6 … IGNITION

Stock or MSD ignition permitted. Absolutely no traction control permitted!

80-7 … REAR END

a. Stock, or 9-inch Ford rear-end recommended.

b. Quick-change allowed “only” for tubular asphalt Late Model Stock Car, however, must have steel axle tubes. Absolutely no lightweight dirt Late Model quick-change permitted!!! *** No gear changes after hot laps, if so start at rear of field.

80-8 … WEIGHT

According to tire size – either 3,000 pounds or 2,800 pounds. … See section 80-10 below for tire/weight info.

a. Driver will receive 25 lb. weight break if wearing HANS device.

* Weight must be posted on right side to be viewed at scales.

** If weight is not posted on car before qualifying, you will only have 1 qualifying lap.

*** Failure to post correct weight (before race) will result in disqualification following event at scales.

80-9 … WHEELS

a. Steel wheels only (10-inch maximum width).

b. Longer studs permitted.

c. Can be double-nutted.

80-10 … TIRES

a. Late Model (take-offs) tires allowed, and “they must be used tires!” No new Late Model tires permitted!!!

b. Also, DOT street-tread stamped highway radial tires are allowed. … No mud, snow, or off road tires permitted.

c. Tubular asphalt Late Model Stock Car chassis = 3,000 pounds (car weight with driver)

d. Any type Late Model tire = 3,000 pounds (car weight with driver)

e. DOT Street-tread tire = 2,800 pounds (car weight with driver)

f. Steel wheels only (10-inch maximum width).

80-11 … ENGINE

a. Open engine.

b. Cast iron heads, cast iron block. Absolutely no aluminum block or heads! No dry sump.

c. One carburetor allowed.
 
Pretty open on the rules. I would probably look for a used car and use you body skin if you want the dart body. I built one in '95 and found out I was constantly rebuilding and adding to as we observed and found out what others were doing. Rules allow a late model tube chassis, and it states stock steering box or rack. So you would assume tubular control arms..open engine rule..so it appears you would have to build a hell of a car to be competitive.
 
You need to do a build thread on this car! I've always wanted to do a Mopar dirt track car. Sorry I'm not much help technically, but I'll cheer you on from the sidelines :)
 
I have a brand new small block Mopar Purple flat track cam when you are ready for it. :D
 
I was hopping someone with dirt track experience would have an idea of the horsepower needed to run around 15 second 4/10 mile laps with a 3000lbs car. I don't think there are any calculators to determine that like there are for drag racing.


I have a brand new small block Mopar Purple flat track cam when you are ready for it. :D

What is the part number for the cam? This track I'm planning on running at has "high" banks.
 
Horsepower won't do you any good if the chassis is not hooking, and gearing is gonna have a lot to do with the equation also. We were running a .010 over 350,(GM, sorry) restricted to a 2 bbl carb, roller rockers, and headers. Don't know how much horse we were making but I'll bet it wasn't over 400. The rpm range on the cam figures in also. You want to make you power in the 3-5000 range. We didn't tach much over that. I say horse power is secondary to handling.
 
I got the Mopar Performance Chassis book and circle track suspension book. I'll use those the best I can and stay within the track's rules.

I need a roll cage so I should be able to stiffen up the unibody with the cage instead of frame connectors. And the doors need to be welded shut so that should help as well.
In the rules in the body section it says " No bracing of any item allowed." but do you think I could get away with J-bars and claim they are part of the roll cage, or since the tubular asphalt late model stock cars have them I should be able to as well?

With your GM car, would you shift the transmission into different gears, or did you stay in one gear throughout the entire race?
 
Once you get the guts out of the body I don't think it will be very stiff. And if you welding a cage why not do frame connectors?
I don't follow on the J-bar(?)..not do I understand what they don't want you to brace..you'll have to have something to hold the body skins.

As far as shifting, no, we ran 1/3 mile asphalt and 1/2 mile dirt. We did not shift for either, ran a three speed Saginaw in 3rd. I don't remember our asphalt gear but we ran 5:67 on the dirt. We would turn 58-6200 rpm.
 
I spent some time with a few guys that run a 4 cyl class. Owner of the body shop and a couple of his friends. Pinto's and such, and when they started talking about track time to try out 20 sets of new tires to find the fastest set/ now they qualify as used for race day. Well you get the idea of the $$$$ that it would take to be competitive. There are guys out that that put serious money in "claimer" engines. The guys I hung out with also had a horde of body parts. It seemed every weekend they needed something, occasionally going on a frame machine.

Buddy up with a local and spend some time in the pits. Sounds like those guys are already running some serious gear.
 
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With those rules I would first ask what is your budget?

I know there is going to be a high initial cost to build the car. Figured I would build it as i got the money to do so this fall/winter/spring before next season starts. Didn't want to dump to much money into the engine yet. I have Mopar circle track Engine book. I'll use that to build the engine, try to use as many of the best production parts as I can to keep cost down.

Figured get a year under my belt then, Then I'll know what I need to improve upon. But I don't want to be lapped every race either.
 
With the "open" engine rules, you will need to go w2 heads right from the beginning, and you will need lightweight parts in the bottom end, my gut feeling is that you are underestimating what will be needed to be competitive.This sounds like a very expensive class, and you need to go look at the front running cars for a idea what it will take
 
Once you get the guts out of the body I don't think it will be very stiff. And if you welding a cage why not do frame connectors?
I don't follow on the J-bar(?)..not do I understand what they don't want you to brace..you'll have to have something to hold the body skins.

As far as shifting, no, we ran 1/3 mile asphalt and 1/2 mile dirt. We did not shift for either, ran a three speed Saginaw in 3rd. I don't remember our asphalt gear but we ran 5:67 on the dirt. We would turn 58-6200 rpm.


Rules say no bracing so that's why I figured I couldn't run frame connectors. J-bars go from the firewall to the frame. Like this:
IMG_1915_zps32183594.jpg


What were the lap times of your GM car on the dirt track?

What would you guys do about weight and the tire rule? 2800lbs on a street tire or 3000lbs on a used late model tire?
 
my gut feeling is that you are underestimating what will be needed to be competitive.This sounds like a very expensive class, and you need to go look at the front running cars for a idea what it will take
Yep! Kind of what I was saying. When I was looking into getting into something, even stocker classes and Karts, there was no way I could be competitive against the $$$.
 
With the "open" engine rules, you will need to go w2 heads right from the beginning, and you will need lightweight parts in the bottom end, my gut feeling is that you are underestimating what will be needed to be competitive.This sounds like a very expensive class, and you need to go look at the front running cars for a idea what it will take
This,he's got a clue...((Yes,I know.. Captain Obvious..) It does look expensive,and how much circle track experience,do you actually have? I would start ,with a good chassis,and a simple basic engine combination to learn,unless you have serious experience,pocket book/ or sponsors... Don't forget to find out,what certain racers are charging,for sponsor ship ,on the car.Don't get under changed,you have sweat ,soul,and tears in this investment,after a wreck.Remember,there's a lot of work,for some serious fun....
 
Also don't forget to budget in tires.
If they don't have a rule to how many tires you can buy a season the rich guys will have a new set for each feature making it hard to compete. Chassis brakes and tires are more important than power to a point if you can brake later and go in deeper in the corners you won't need as much power to compete.
 
Also don't forget to budget in tires.
If they don't have a rule to how many tires you can buy a season the rich guys will have a new set for each feature making it hard to compete. Chassis brakes and tires are more important than power to a point if you can brake later and go in deeper in the corners you won't need as much power to compete.
Yes..The guy ,I was involved with,ran Pinto mini stock: one tire size,one rim size.. Always,chassis first.Nice callout,273....
 
I would view those J-bars as part of the roll cage along with a front loop for the radiator. You need to look at other cars to see how far they've gone.

As far as lap times, I don't recall it was 20 years ago now. I'll look in the garage and see if the book is still around.
 
old thread i know,..sorry gonna cost lot to run these rules but if you gonna do it competitively plan 15,000 in car build and bout 350 a night counting towing,fuel,hot dogs,arm bands,tires,bail money!! and dont skimp out on safety!! gonna wont to run the late model tires lot more grip in a 14 inch wide hoosier gumbo tire than any 60 series dot tire and is less recipicating weight as well,..my local 4/10s track these type cars running high 18 to 20 second lap times with 500 to 550 hp but track vary in lotta ways... need to reserch mopar kit race cars theres a group page on face book of these factory built circle track cars heres a link to them.... Log into Facebook | Facebook
 
I ran dirt cars for 16 years before I retired from the sport 9 years ago. our rules were way more restive than that and it nothing to have 20 grand in a competitive car. research what the other guys are running but I bet you will end up with a jig built car and a 10,000 engine. those cars are not the junk they look like.
 
I race a dirt late model. You must be talking about Tazewell speedway. No other track besides Thunder Hill have that kind of banking. Not to be a buzzkill.... but you want Motor and you want tire! I'd carry the weight and have a late model tire. The mopar sounds awesome and I own 3 of them... but the torsion bar suspension has horrible geometry when you see them on dirt tracks. They do some really weird camber loss and gains. I would probably budget for $6k engine minimum and $8k in a chassis etc. you can buy a hell of a nice Crate Late model turn key for $15k. You'd be racing and spending the money for a labor of love at that point.

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This is a guy who races a "Challenger" in middle Tennessee in street stock. He's always up front and guaranteed he has $30k in this car. Cool car, dumb class. It's a shame they didn't beat down the class rules more.

IMG_9079.JPG
 
cost me bout 4500 to build this super street car 3 years ago 650 for used chassis and body and already had motor and trans...
dwb25.jpg
 
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