Thanks,,, as always,, I was trying to get by with the 906 heads ,,,I wanna try to stay 10.1 compression,,,, but want a fast reliable engine
Wow,, that is fast…. I was hoping high 12’s
ummm.... it takes nowhere near 450 hp to run high 12's in a A-body. My Duster runs high 12's with 3.23's, stock converter, and a real mild 360 (no lumpity lump lump..lol)
Well I really don’t plan to race it often but need it mainly for cruise and car shows , some burn outs , possible match races against my blow hard chev friends,,,,, it just has to be able to back it up
good idea
My 69 cuda ran 12.64 with 3:55 gears, full 3” exhaust, 2” headers, 10” converter and drag radials. The motor was .020 over, compression in the 10’s, 484/284 cam, pocket ported 906 heads, stock intake and 68 AVS carb. I only ever made 2 passes in the car it was 95 degrees out when I did it so the car was potentially faster than that had we played with the timing.
that’s a perfect combo and time,,,, mine I assume will be .030 over
The only thing that I would do if I had to do it all over would be to go with a tighter torque converter.
So you're having the short block work done now? Have you thought about getting a stroker kit? I know its $2,400 for it but if you're already doing the bottom end and can swing it its something I would consider... Generally speaking if I'm going low buck I'm doing bearing, rings, and dingle ball hone, whiplash cam from hughs to make it sound cool and help make some low end power then go have fun.
Such as ?
These are all great suggestions but my main fear is lifter failure on a flat tapper cam… roller cams are much more expensive… but can a flat tappet cam / lifter combo be trusted now a days…. I was a engine tech for decades and I never broke in cams nor worried about it ….granted this was 1974-2005,,,,,I have to believe that it is metal in lifters,,, unless all the oil company’s are all leaving a component out??
OIL.
