bulkhead Ammeter connectors

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Darren, I did the Mad bypass. It's a personal choice. I left the ammeter(unhooked) in dash as I like the original looks. But dont trust 50+ year old gauges. We installed a triple gauge set of Autometer gauges(volt, temp, oil psi) directly under the ac diffuser.
The #1 priority in my opinion are cleaning the connections and upgrading the wiring.
 
IMHO

The wiring has worked fine for 54 years, as long as connectors are tight, no added loads, no corrosion, you will be good for another 54 years.

THAT BEING SAID...

if you want to bypass your Ammeter AND run another line (with correct fusible link) from alt to starter relay stud that will bypass the ammeter and other car wiring altogether for charging. By tying the ammeter wires together you will have created a redundant path for current to flow through the bulkhead connectors to all the cars needs. This will effectively halve the current flowing through each of the bulkhead connector.

upload_2021-7-10_11-45-6.png


As for originality, Ammeter will not move, and you can get a cigarette lighter plug in volt meter.

@Mattax look correct to you? Any issues?
 
Dana67Dart said:
IMHO

The wiring has worked fine for 54 years, as long as connectors are tight, no added loads, no corrosion, you will be good for another 54 years.

THAT BEING SAID...

if you want to bypass your Ammeter AND run another line (with correct fusible link) from alt to starter relay stud that will bypass the ammeter and other car wiring altogether for charging. By tying the ammeter wires together you will have created a redundant path for current to flow through the bulkhead connectors to all the cars needs. This will effectively halve the current flowing through each of the bulkhead connector.

View attachment 1715762971

As for originality, Ammeter will not move, and you can get a cigarette lighter plug in volt meter.

@Mattax look correct to you? Any issues?
Click to expand...

Dana67Dart said:
IMHO

The wiring has worked fine for 54 years, as long as connectors are tight, no added loads, no corrosion, you will be good for another 54 years.

THAT BEING SAID...

if you want to bypass your Ammeter AND run another line (with correct fusible link) from alt to starter relay stud that will bypass the ammeter and other car wiring altogether for charging. By tying the ammeter wires together you will have created a redundant path for current to flow through the bulkhead connectors to all the cars needs. This will effectively halve the current flowing through each of the bulkhead connector.

View attachment 1715762971

As for originality, Ammeter will not move, and you can get a cigarette lighter plug in volt meter.

@Mattax look correct to you? Any issues?
Click to expand...
This was my original plan, I bought the "wire around" kit along with the headlight relay kit from Cracked back..
I just can not make up my mind..
Thanks 67
 
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Dana. Your drawing repeats the same misinformation about power distribution.
IMO the more hacks in place, the more chances of execution problems. Problems with quality of the crimps, insulation support, wire support, fitting so there is no pinching are examples of challenges in good execution.
I've said my piece, which is pretty much the same as Rumblefish.
With a crackedback headlight harness, which is reversible with no damage, this seems like a no brainer.

That said I've posted how the factory wired the ammeter for the option 60/65 alts several times, and how I copied some of that at least twice. The only reason that might be neccessary here is damage to the factory terminals and connector cavity at the bulkhead from excessive overcharging. If this is an original 383 car even more the reason not to cut things up. I added 1/2 of the 60/65 amp wiring because I had cooked the bulkhead terminal (alkernator R6) wire and my car is a not a restoration. My car is a rehab that looks pretty original.
 
@Mattax On the 60/65 amp gage, you used a larger wire? Would you link your post on this wiring please?
 
If you want to bypass, do it. If you don't do that. To say the OEM charge system is a great way to run the car, not IMO. It's a horrible way to do things but it is what we get.

Have ammeters and the charging path failed on mopars throughout the years... yes they have. Whether the ammeter or bulkhead, just part of a bad design. There are better ways to service the electrical needs of the car.

The factory black charge line wire sizing from alternator on most cars is a 10ga.

Pick your parts, pay your money.
 
Mattax said:
Dana. Your drawing repeats the same misinformation about power distribution.
IMO the more hacks in place, the more chances of execution problems. Problems with quality of the crimps, insulation support, wire support, fitting so there is no pinching are examples of challenges in good execution.
I've said my piece, which is pretty much the same as Rumblefish.
With a crackedback headlight harness, which is reversible with no damage, this seems like a no brainer.

That said I've posted how the factory wired the ammeter for the option 60/65 alts several times, and how I copied some of that at least twice. The only reason that might be neccessary here is damage to the factory terminals and connector cavity at the bulkhead from excessive overcharging. If this is an original 383 car even more the reason not to cut things up. I added 1/2 of the 60/65 amp wiring because I had cooked the bulkhead terminal (alkernator R6) wire and my car is a not a restoration. My car is a rehab that looks pretty original.
Click to expand...
Thanks Mattax for the advice..
This is a original 383s 4 speed matching number car.. that's my main reasoning trying to keep things original or if modifying, being able to put back to original.
Thanks
 
Darren said:
Thanks Mattax for the advice..
This is a original 383s 4 speed matching number car.. that's my main reasoning trying to keep things original or if modifying, being able to put back to original.
Thanks
Click to expand...
On the replacement terminals, get both the 14 and the 12 gage. That way you can see what actually will work best with the wire and insulation. If the crimps don't grab all the strands and insulation then try the other size.
The part numbers for the Packard 58 females are in this post.
I think I mail ordered those from Mouser. So that is another option if you can't get locally.

rumblefish360 said:
@Mattax On the 60/65 amp gage, you used a larger wire? Would you link your post on this wiring please?
Click to expand...
Sure.
In this post is the 65 amp (Leece Neville) diagram Factory ammeter

Cleaned up version of the optional 60 amp (Chrysler) diagram for '73 B-body in this post Another ammeter bypass question
Further down in the same thread are somewhat cleaned up assembly drawings for 67-69 A-body Fleet option wiring.

Here's the diagram of how I ran a parallel wire in my '67.
NJ and area Mopar carbecue - 5/22/21 for FABO and FBBO

Basically I combined the idea of using a terminal stud on the firewall (from the fleet option) with the idea of running the alternator output wire to the ammeter stud (used on later defroster grid cars with 60 amp alt). How rare is electric rear defrost?
 
Darren said:
I can be persuaded when it comes to safety..
So say hypothetically if I leave the amp gauge in place and bolt the ammeter connectors together and insulate good and tie up under dash.. then install a temporary volt gauge under dash . Then I could always bring back to original if I please or sell car..
Would this eliminate your concerns? ( I realize I will still have the bulkhead connector issue..)
Also I bypassed my "in fuel gauge" limiter and am using a RTE solid state limiter .. (picture) thanks RedFish
View attachment 1715762943
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I can't say what is best for you and your car. Its a personal preference thing. I refused to have a dead gauge in my inst' panel and another gauge in another location to look at. Once the screen and needle from the amp gauge are transplanted onto the Sunpro volts gauge there is no difference in outward appearance except that when the switch is turned off the volt gauge needle goes home (just like the other gauges). The switched 12 volt supply that you routed to the solid state regulator is used to supply the volt gauge pos' also (where the circuit board is marked RED). And a ground wire added to neg' post of volt gauge. Another amp gauge would be required to put it back to OEM.
 
Just remember the power to the instruments is not coming from the ammeter. The nominal 12 V into the fuel gage IVR comes from the key switch. It takes a pretty high current to take out the ammeter shunt. Lots of other things will melt first. If the current is real high, it will take out the fusible link. If its 'only' moderately high, it will melt the insulation around various terminals and for those retained in plastic housings (like the bulkhead multi-connector) melt those too. Pictures of some melted terminals
 
Mattax said:
Just remember the power to the instruments is not coming from the ammeter. The nominal 12 V into the fuel gage IVR comes from the key switch. It takes a pretty high current to take out the ammeter shunt. Lots of other things will melt first. If the current is real high, it will take out the fusible link. If its 'only' moderately high, it will melt the insulation around various terminals and for those retained in plastic housings (like the bulkhead multi-connector) melt those too. Pictures of some melted terminals
Click to expand...
I can't argue with any of that. There are a host of issues with old terminals carrying high current. Changing the amp gauge to a volt gauge doesn't solve all problems. The wiring in a newer vehicle is mass of small wires for all the electronics in them. Majority of larger wires and high current are out in the engine bay, routed through relays. So their headlight switches, wiper switches, power window switches, every manually operated switch inside can be physically small. Our classics weren't built that way. The newer vehicles are running 80+ amp alternators and have a multitude of fuses. Some of our classics have as little as 5 fuses. Several circuits aren't fused.
As for these Chryslers amp gauges... they are not all the same. Some are pretty well made while others are flimsy. The amp gauge in a rally panel is one of the better ones but... it aint bullet proof. Its needle is mounted on a steel pin about the size of a sewing needle. That pin was pressed into a hole in the shunt. If shunt overheats, the pin falls out. I don't recall how many examples of this is have seen, 3 or 4? That isn't a high number considering how may were produced.
In the bigger picture, the aftermarket doesn't want us to do MAD bypass or any other mods to our 50+ year old wiring. They want us to purchase all new everything from them.
My 67 wiring wasn't in poor condition but the service disconnect at the fusible link did show corrosion and melting, and that was with the original regulator and 36 to 42 amp alternator. Bulkhead connector and amp gauge terminals still looked fine. I too choose to make a few changes including headlight relays, MAD bypass, and amp gauge delete, in effort to prevent some of the possible issues down the road and the need/cost of new wiring harnesses.
A chain breaks at its weakest link. This owner sees his weak link at bulkhead terminals. To address that moves point of failure to next weakest link. I found my weak link at fusible link connector but didn't stop there. Good luck to all.
 
Can anyone recommend some open barrel crimpers? To properly crimp these connectors
Thanks
 
Darren said:
Can anyone recommend some open barrel crimpers? To properly crimp these connectors
Thanks
Click to expand...
No single one seems to be perfect.
Even American Autowire's copy of the Packard tool has some limitations. Although for single wire crimps probably just need the one.
Threads on open barrel crimpers


In the process of looking for crimpers for the tiny terminals I needed for the dashtop tachometer I came across this video. I'm not big on videos. In fact I usually avoid them. In that spirit I skipped to the parts I was interested in.
Even though he's working with 22 and 20 ga wire and slightly different types of terminals, his process of figuring out how to make a good crimp IMO makes it worth watching. At least for those who don't already have a ton of experience or confidence in their crimping.
 
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4spdragtop said:
Cant remember, I'll dig it out. Heres the male, 14-18 ga connectors. #1589-15.


View attachment 1715764231
Click to expand...
I wonder if these would work for the ammeter Red/black wires?. I think they are 12 AWG. I was set to order 10-12 AWG male connectors that crackedback suggested but the are not shipping to Canada currently.
Thanks
 
RedFish said:
I can't say what is best for you and your car. Its a personal preference thing. I refused to have a dead gauge in my inst' panel and another gauge in another location to look at. Once the screen and needle from the amp gauge are transplanted onto the Sunpro volts gauge there is no difference in outward appearance except that when the switch is turned off the volt gauge needle goes home (just like the other gauges). The switched 12 volt supply that you routed to the solid state regulator is used to supply the volt gauge pos' also (where the circuit board is marked RED). And a ground wire added to neg' post of volt gauge. Another amp gauge would be required to put it back to OEM.
Click to expand...
My solid state limiter has a male connector not being used so your saying if I wish to wire up a volt meter I can power the volt meter off here ( pictured)?
Thanks

View attachment 1715770879

Screenshot_20210724-214525_Gallery.jpg
 
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