Bulkhead electrical gurus to rescue

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mycuda

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Okay. Can't seem to figure this one out.
For starters, this problem has only been recent. Drive car maybe 50 miles a year.
Bigblock conversion 30 years ago.
Elephant ears, fenderwell headers etc.
Only electrical additions are Mallory highfire ignition basically.
Last fall upon starting starter stays engaged? Just recently replaced starter relay, ignition switch, and now bloodied up
Replacing starter.
Same result.....WTF.
Gotta be a ground somewhere is my guess
Or bulk connecter fried somewhere.

Problem with setup as DS. valve cover basically up against bulk connector.

My question is which wires do I need to start messing with.....
I know getting old, but c'mon
Original 67 273 auto barracuda.


Thanks, few pics.

Dave

20200426_135355.jpg


20200426_135317.jpg


20200426_135336.jpg
 
Start here.

Starter staying engaged, Ignition Switch, Starter Relay, or even wiring. Looks like plenty of mods not mentioned.
 

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Thanks, no mods thru original starting system or bulkhead.
 
How Iong does it stay engaged?

You have replaced all the components that could keep the starter engaged,

BUT there is one thing I can think of... If the starter's center line is too close to the flywheel/flexplate, perhaps the teeth are engaging and with too tight a clearance not able to retract.
 
How Iong does it stay engaged?

You have replaced all the components that could keep the starter engaged,

BUT there is one thing I can think of... If the starter's center line is too close to the flywheel/flexplate, perhaps the teeth are engaging and with too tight a clearance not able to retract.
I like your thinking.
But the starter is getting power when start position of key goes back to "on" position?
Practically burned my hand disconnecting
Negative on battery(s,) in trunk to stop
With engine not running.....?

Again, nothing has been added or removed
In current system which has been the same for 15+ years.... thats the frustration
 
Last edited:
I like your thinking.
But the starter is getting power when start position of key goes back to "on" position?
Practically burned my hand disconnecting
Negative on battery(s,) in trunk to stop
With engine not running.....?

Again, nothing has been added or removed
In current system which has been the same for 15+ years.... thats the frustration

Ignition switch ? Good looking car .
I`d be looking for a way to get rid of the bulkhead conn. , mine was fried , so I
rewired the whole car .
 
Have been rebuilding starters for years. Can't help feel that the problem is with the starter or an alignment issue concerning the starter/belhousing/flywheel/crank.
 
I like your thinking.
But the starter is getting power when start position of key goes back to "on" position?
Practically burned my hand disconnecting
Negative on battery(s,) in trunk to stop
With engine not running.....?

Again, nothing has been added or removed
In current system which has been the same for 15+ years.... thats the frustration


And no mods! What is your definition of mods?
 
I sense a gotcha here! Come clean!
 
Don’t bite! This is a BS thread. Show us how it is all wired! And tell us what you found to be the truth!
What?
All I can tell you is what is posted.
Jeez.
Looking for possible help not more grief.

I will eventually figure it out, just thought
Could get some insight or advice forward
 
! This is a BS thread
Who knows, we all have had Gremlins at times.


MYCUDA....

if you have power on the yellow(might be different for diferent years) wire on the starter relay when the key is in run and or off, that is where you start and back trace till you find the source.

If you disconnect the yellow wire from the starter relay and the starter still runs the relay or the throwout is the failure point.

Lastly if you had a wiring change that added a relay, you might have created a loop that after you turn to start energizes and holds the starter relay on
 
Who knows, we all have had Gremlins at times.


MYCUDA....

if you have power on the yellow(might be different for diferent years) wire on the starter relay when the key is in run and or off, that is where you start and back trace till you find the source.

If you disconnect the yellow wire from the starter relay and the starter still runs the relay or the throwout is the failure point.

Lastly if you had a wiring change that added a relay, you might have created a loop that after you turn to start energizes and holds the starter relay on

Thanks, whats the odds the new relay
Faulty? Lol find out more tomorrow.
 
Like said show us! I believe you in has been this way since you owned but, battery in trunk and the pics lead to lots of mods. Where does one really start to help you? I listed the general culprits to start!
 
Thanks, whats the odds the new relay is faulty
50/50.

Remove the yellow wire from the starter relay,

With key in off position what voltage do you get (yellow wire to battery ground)

With key in run position what voltage do you get (yellow wire to battery ground

With key in Start position what voltage do you get (yellow wire to battery ground

With a remote remote start button jump from batt + to the yellow wire's terminal on the starter relay, with key in off position bump the remote start switch, does it keep turning the engine?
 
50/50.

Remove the yellow wire from the starter relay,

With key in off position what voltage do you get (yellow wire to battery ground)

With key in run position what voltage do you get (yellow wire to battery ground

With key in Start position what voltage do you get (yellow wire to battery ground

With a remote remote start button jump from batt + to the yellow wire's terminal on the starter relay, with key in off position bump the remote start switch, does it keep turning the engine?
Thanks will check that voltage tomorrow.
Appreciate it.
 
If post 17 does not fix it, get right down to the starter and remove the small wire from the small terminal. Now "rig" another wire to that terminal long enough you can jumper it to the battery "up top." If the problem still happens, it HAS to be in the starter or alignment problems.

WANDERING: The ignition switch has two contacts that are hot during "start." One is the normall brown IGN2 which bypasses the ballast resistor and feeds the ignition system hot battery power during "start."

The second is the yellow start wire which fires the starter relay. If someone had problems, etc, may have interconnected those wires OR IF THERE is a problem in the ignition switch, that circuit can cause a 'backfeed' The yellow should be DEAD in the run position of the key.
 
Like said show us! I believe you in has been this way since you owned but, battery in trunk and the pics lead to lots of mods. Where does one really start to help you? I listed the general culprits to start!
Thanks. Got this car frome junkyard 1980.
I've done all paint restoration/engine drive train swaps personally.
If I caused this problem I certainly want to be the one to find it.....just looking for a hand.
 
If post 17 does not fix it, get right down to the starter and remove the small wire from the small terminal. Now "rig" another wire to that terminal long enough you can jumper it to the battery "up top." If the problem still happens, it HAS to be in the starter or alignment problems.

WANDERING: The ignition switch has two contacts that are hot during "start." One is the normall brown IGN2 which bypasses the ballast resistor and feeds the ignition system hot battery power during "start."

The second is the yellow start wire which fires the starter relay. If someone had problems, etc, may have interconnected those wires OR IF THERE is a problem in the ignition switch, that circuit can cause a 'backfeed' The yellow should be DEAD in the run position of the key.
Thanks, it.makes sense.
Check tomorrow.
 
Thanks will check that voltage tomorrow.
Appreciate it.




HAHAHAHAHAHA, changed starter relay to made in USA. And all of a sudden Im a great parts replacer again ..... those damn mods............
Thanks for your help.


Dave
 
HAHAHAHAHAHA, changed starter relay to made in USA. And all of a sudden Im a great parts replacer again ..... those damn mods............
Thanks for your help.


Dave


See post #2
 
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