bump steer

[737jetdr]

has anyone used bump steer studs and heim joints on the tie rods to correct bump steer?

 

[autoxcuda]

The Hotchkis Tie rods come with them.

I've done it to the circle track cars I help with. But not my car.

To make the bump steer adjustments you have to get a shim kit and a bump steer gauge:

Shim Kit: http://www.quickcar.net/chassis/ch_bsshim.html

Bump Steer Gauge: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/DECO-...eBase&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=GoogleBase

 

[737jetdr]

Thanks autox. I've done a lot of work to my 67 Dart and it seems to handle well except for the bumpsteer. When I go over a rise in the road the suspension unloads. When it loads up again it pushes my front end to the left. I was looking at the Hotchkis tie rods. They look like nice pieces.

 

[autoxcuda]

I assume you've had an alignment recently. And checked the suspension parts. Especially the idler arm. That 67 idler is one year only stud mounted.

I have seen people put in the 68-72 idler using a thru bolt. That might cause issues.

Buying the tie rods won't do anything to correct the bumpsteer IF it's bad, unless you check and change the shims.

 

[737jetdr]

both idler and pitman arms are new. mine has the thru bolt. maybe my k frame has been changed. I have 11/16" firm feel tie rods, cap auto adjustable ucas and cap adjust strut rods. all ball joints are new. current alignment setting is 3degree caster, -1 camber, 1/16 toe in, lcas have been rebuilt and new firm feel 1" torsion bars. 73+ spindles and brakes. 1 1/16 front swaybar. hole in k frame for the idler hasn't been modified.

 

[autoxcuda]

both idler and pitman arms are new. mine has the thru bolt. maybe my k frame has been changed. I have 11/16" firm feel tie rods, cap auto adjustable ucas and cap adjust strut rods. all ball joints are new. current alignment setting is 3degree caster, -1 camber, 1/16 toe in, lcas have been rebuilt and new firm feel 1" torsion bars. 73+ spindles and brakes. 1 1/16 front swaybar. hole in k frame for the idler hasn't been modified.

When you say thru bolt, does it have a mount with a hole in it on the top and bottom of the idler?

The basic alighnment numbers look good. Did it drive like that before you did all those upgrades.

 

[737jetdr]

The car has been off the road so long I can't say for sure if it did or not.My idler has a long bolt that goes thru from top to bottom with a nut and a washer. Now that I look at my steering geometry it looks like my outer tie rod on the passenger side sits lower than on the drivers side and at a slightly different angle. Maybe that is my problem.

 

[autoxcuda]

The car has been off the road so long I can't say for sure if it did or not.My idler has a long bolt that goes thru from top to bottom with a nut and a washer. Now that I look at my steering geometry it looks like my outer tie rod on the passenger side sits lower than on the drivers side and at a slightly different angle. Maybe that is my problem.

Is you center link level to the ground.

 

[737jetdr]

No . It's lower on the passenger side. guess I never noticed it before. When i bought the car I drove it back to Indiana from Portland,Or. but the front suspension and steering linkage had so much play in it I never noticed the bump steer until now. I ordered a 67 idler arm. Hopefully it will cure my problems.

 

[autoxcuda]

No . It's lower on the passenger side. guess I never noticed it before. When i bought the car I drove it back to Indiana from Portland,Or. but the front suspension and steering linkage had so much play in it I never noticed the bump steer until now. I ordered a 67 idler arm. Hopefully it will cure my problems.

Are you sure you have a 67 K-member?.

This is a 68-72 A-body small block K-member (the 383 K-member has the same exact idler to K-member setup):

This is a 73-76 A-body small block V-8 K-member

 

[autoxcuda]

this is what the 67 A-body idler looks like. Is this on your car now?

 

[737jetdr]

My K member doesn't have the box welded on for the idler arm, just a tab and that is the idler arm that I ordered for my car. Apparently the previous owner put a 68 idler arm on my car and I didn't know there was a difference. I wish mine had a 68 k member. It looks like a much stronger setup than what I have.

 

[green1]

Agree, and check torsion bars for ride height, side to side.

 

[dodge freak]

I wish mine had a 68 k member. It looks like a much stronger setup than what I have.

Well heck you done so much why stop now? I would keep an eye on ebay--or here for a nice K 68 member or even 73-76 if it fits. Then when you can change it and sell your old K member The bushings should be changed any how, LOL