bung in head intake

[pishta]

I fashioned this out of EMT, a piece of plate metal and an old Edelbrock cast valve cover. I bought the flanges off Ebay. I made the runners as long as the original Ramchargers formula for intake valve timing off a stock camshaft, I think it was around 240 degrees. I picked the 4th or 5th wave to keep it under 10 inches. TB Ram tube length doesnt factor in much according to some design sites and I put it here to keep the package as narrow as possible as its in a narrow A and the M/C is over there. With no EFI bungs at a 45, you can make it pretty narrow.

It has an integral exhaust manifold heat stove plate which makes a nice pad to mount the manifold to. This is turbocharged so there is plenty of heat to prevent icing, and the injectors are downstream so its completely dry. You can make some tricky bends with a dry intake, just look at some stock plastic intakes on the 3.8 motors. I used a good rubber valve cover gasket and sealer for the plenum. I used a Ford Windstar 3.8 TB as it has a PW idle air control motor as opposed to a stepper motor that my MS2 could not handle. Im also using a Ford EDIS-6 ignition with a 36-1 degree wheel off the crankshaft damper. I milled the teeth into the stock slant dampers outer ring and will make a 3 prong yoke to keep the ring from slipping by bolting it to the rigid inner hub and extending the 3 fingers out to 3 dimples Ill drill into the outer ring. That should keep things in line. I tried to make some teeth into a more rigid mount power steering pulley but botched it badly so I went with plan B. Usually turbos dont mind shorter runners but when I first started this project, it was without the turbo. The 3 BAR MAPP is in the MS2 controller so a few nipples off the plenum will work with that.

 

[Bill Dedman]

NT

I fashioned this out of EMT, a piece of plate metal and an old Edelbrock cast valve cover. I bought the flanges off Ebay. I made the runners as long as the original Ramchargers formula for intake valve timing off a stock camshaft, I think it was around 240 degrees. I picked the 4th or 5th wave to keep it under 10 inches. TB Ram tube length doesnt factor in much according to some design sites and I put it here to keep the package as narrow as possible as its in a narrow A and the M/C is over there. With no EFI bungs at a 45, you can make it pretty narrow.View attachment 1714954161 View attachment 1714954162 View attachment 1714954163 View attachment 1714954164 It has an integral exhaust manifold heat stove plate which makes a nice pad to mount the manifold to. This is turbocharged so there is plenty of heat to prevent icing, and the injectors are downstream so its completely dry. You can make some tricky bends with a dry intake, just look at some stock plastic intakes on the 3.8 motors. I used a good rubber valve cover gasket and sealer for the plenum. I used a Ford Windstar 3.8 TB as it has a PW idle air control motor as opposed to a stepper motor that my MS2 could not handle. Im also using a Ford EDIS-6 ignition with a 36-1 degree wheel off the crankshaft damper. I milled the teeth into the stock slant dampers outer ring and will make a 3 prong yoke to keep the ring from slipping by bolting it to the rigid inner hub and extending the 3 fingers out to 3 dimples Ill drill into the outer ring. That should keep things in line. I tried to make some teeth into a more rigid mount power steering pulley but botched it badly so I went with plan B. Usually turbos dont mind shorter runners but when I first started this project, it was without the turbo. The 3 BAR MAPP is in the MS2 controller so a few nipples off the plenum will work with that.

Congratulations on your (smart) decision to run this with a turbo, and congratulations on a BEAUTIFUL design! You know how to make me drool.... LOL! I WANT ONE!!!!

 

[67Dart273]

I made the runners as long as the original Ramchargers formula.

NICE!! You may be in for "trouble" if you understand these formulas, I may pick your brain sometime LOL

 

[emsvitil]

Where do the injectors go?




Also looks like you'll have a massive vacuum leak............

 

[pishta]

Oh, the valve cover breather hole? Yeah...that's gonna get filled. Injectors are in the head just off the valve cover in that flat area. Drilled right through the roof of the intake runners.

 

[slantsixdan]

Sweet!

 

[BillGrissom]

Very creative use of existing and cheap parts. EMT is cheap and welds easily. The galvanizing just vaporizes away (respray w/ high-zinc rattle can). I am currently using it to fab a carport roof (plus old trampoline tubing). Does an EFI intake need exhaust heat? Many modern engines use plastic intake manifolds and I don't see any provision for exhaust heating. But, you do need to seal the top of a factory slant exhaust, and it does make a structural support for the intake, as you noted. Rather than machine the damper pulley for a 36-1 wheel, might be easier and better to use a bolt-on power steering pulley, which you usually find on later engines. It would already be fixed to the crank hub.

 

[pishta]

Yup, I looked at a P/S pulley and bought one, but my buddy was a machinist and I though it would be a good experiment so I let him at it. Came out really nice, like too nice to not use...well see. I got a stock spare so no damage done. I dont understand how the rear pulley fits as this snugs down to about 5mm of the timing cover.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Jumping Jehoshaphat!

 

[nm9stheham]

Pretty cool. I suspect you'll need a lot more than 5 bolts to seal that valve cover to the flat plate with pressure. Maybe flip the TPS over to keep it away from the exhaust manifold runner and that heat, or put some insulation on that exhaust runner.

How about a pix of the injector holes? Well done on that idea.

 

[Badvert65]

Yup, I looked at a P/S pulley and bought one, but my buddy was a machinist and I though it would be a good experiment so I let him at it. Came out really nice, like too nice to not use...well see.

That looks great, I'd be interested to see if the teeth affect the fan belt in any way.

 

[BillGrissom]

. ... I dont understand how the rear pulley fits as this snugs down to about 5mm of the timing cover...

I recently put an aft pulley on my 64 slant. It is used for the AC belt, I think in all slant years, even dealer-installed someone here said, though perhaps not after-market (Western Auto, Sears, ...) since I have a 74 slant w/ a dbl-V bolt-on front pulley. I posted photos in a slant AC thread. The aft pulley does sit very close to the timing cover, but doesn't seem to drag since I hear nothing when I manually turn-over the engine (haven't run it since). Insure you have the "oil slinger" inside the timing cover since the damper hub bottoms out on that. If you need more room, one could probably add a 2nd oil slinger (or washer) inside the cover.

I am interested to see how you fab a bracket for the crank pickup. There is a youtube video of EDIS on a slant. The bracket looks a bit cantilevered and perhaps could shake. I put a 36-1 wheel on my 273. Small blocks have more room near the damper, so I could use a more standard ~4"D wheel over the main crank pulley's snout. I made a bracket for both a Ford VR sensor (barely fit) and a Mopar Hall-effect sensor (shorter), both coming off the upper w.p. bolts.