Bushing sleeve

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shep76

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Camarillo, CA
Brand new rubber bushing installed. I haven’t driven the car yet. I removed the steering box and noticed that it seems the sleeve is already pulling out of the bushing. Has anyone seen this before? I waited to torque the LCA’s until I had it on the ground. Can’t think of anything else I could have done wrong….

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something's not right there. what brand of bushing, who did the install? is the t-bar all the way home with the clip installed? blow it back apart and let's see some more pics.
 
Any chance the strut rod isn't seated and tightening the pivot pin pulled it out of the bushing?
 
Bushings are from ESPO. I did the installation. Torsion bars are PST, fully in with locking tabs. The strut rods are torqued on both ends with roll pin in…. It will take me a couple of days but I guess I’ll tear it back apart. They were installed by a moron but I can't think of anything the moron did wrong.... you can see my pressing method below.

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I'm guessing its something I did wrong... if I torqued the pins after everything was on the ground and close to ride height, it seems to me the only thing that could be pushing the opposite direction is the strut bar. They are just stock bars with one piece bushings. Maybe I torqued the pins before I torqued the front strut rod nuts? ESPO is great, they offered to send me new ones and are super helpful/responsive. Like I said, the only thing I can think of is potenially torquing the control arm shaft before the strut nut, doesn't seem like that would be enough force to do that but maybe...
 
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What holds the poly style in place? Not a dam thing . They do the same thing pull off the pin. You even lube the poly style up during installation to help promote the issue. LMAO.

Get OEM rubber bushings that aren't made in China. Good Luck finding any.
 
What holds the poly style in place? Not a dam thing . They do the same thing pull off the pin. You even lube the poly style up during installation to help promote the issue. LMAO.

Get OEM rubber bushings that aren't made in China. Good Luck finding any.
I'm using rubber ones. ESPO said they use two manufacturers. Harris, which is supposed to actually be the original manufacturer. And McQuay-Norris. I have no idea where they are manufactured but as we found out during Covid, the U.S. has virutually no domestic manufacturing anymore for most industries. I'm just happy to be able to do this LCA job twice. :)
 
Now that your doing it twice. Clean and paint the parts you remove and replace. Its what I turned into once I got older. My jobs take twice as long because everything I remove even the hardware has to look new when going back on.

I recently picked up this truck real cheap. Off the road and indoors for over 15 years . A one hour brake job turned into 2 month chassis cleaning .

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Is this on both sides or just driver side? I just replaced my LCA bushes on my B Body and on the driver's side when the LCA is at full droop as I tightened the LCA nut (not torquing it, just tightening it loosely to seat the pin in the K frame), a small part of the LCA hit the K frame, and when as the nut was tightened it pulled the pin put of the bushing. I had to just lift the LCA a fraction of an inch to clear the K frame as I was tightening. I wonder if that's what happened here.
 
I'm guessing its something I did wrong... if I torqued the pins after everything was on the ground and close to ride height, it seems to me the only thing that could be pushing the opposite direction is the strut bar. They are just stock bars with one piece bushings. Maybe I torqued the pins before I torqued the front strut rod nuts? ESPO is great, they offered to send me new ones and are super helpful/responsive. Like I said, the only thing I can think of is potenially torquing the control arm shaft before the strut nut, doesn't seem like that would be enough force to do that but maybe...

You are correct, the only force that could be pushing the LCA backward on the pin is through the strut rod. The strut rod is literally the only thing that locates the LCA forward/aft, that is its only purpose and no LCA bushing regardless of kind does that.

The order in which you torqued the strut rod and LCA pivot nut shouldn't really matter. Even if you torqued the LCA pivot pins before the strut rods it would just be the compression distance of the strut rod bushings that would push the LCA backward. And that shouldn't be enough to separate the LCA bushing because during driving operations the rubber strut rod bushings extend and collapse, the LCA bushing flexes with them. So if the full backward extension of the strut rod and bushing caused the LCA bushing to separate, it would have done that after driving the car too.

To me, as long as the strut rod itself isn't too long, then this has to be a manufacturing issue for the LCA bushing. The only thing that holds the rubber LCA bushings together is the force from the compression of the rubber bushing between the inner and outer shells, so there really isn't much to think about. Either that compression force wasn't high enough because of poor tolerances, or the strut rod is too long (it would have to be for a different car, or the wrong year).
 
You are correct, the only force that could be pushing the LCA backward on the pin is through the strut rod. The strut rod is literally the only thing that locates the LCA forward/aft, that is its only purpose and no LCA bushing regardless of kind does that.

The order in which you torqued the strut rod and LCA pivot nut shouldn't really matter. Even if you torqued the LCA pivot pins before the strut rods it would just be the compression distance of the strut rod bushings that would push the LCA backward. And that shouldn't be enough to separate the LCA bushing because during driving operations the rubber strut rod bushings extend and collapse, the LCA bushing flexes with them. So if the full backward extension of the strut rod and bushing caused the LCA bushing to separate, it would have done that after driving the car too.

To me, as long as the strut rod itself isn't too long, then this has to be a manufacturing issue for the LCA bushing. The only thing that holds the rubber LCA bushings together is the force from the compression of the rubber bushing between the inner and outer shells, so there really isn't much to think about. Either that compression force wasn't high enough because of poor tolerances, or the strut rod is too long (it would have to be for a different car, or the wrong year).
My thoughts exactly. More pics after removal. I don’t think they provide any other useful information other than showing the sleeves do indeed appear to be coming out. To your knowledge is there any adhesive that aids in keeping the sleeve in there? Or is it just a squeezing force?

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My thoughts exactly. More pics after removal. I don’t think they provide any other useful information other than showing the sleeves do indeed appear to be coming out. To your knowledge is there any adhesive that aids in keeping the sleeve in there? Or is it just a squeezing force?

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Yup, looks like the sleeve has slipped out of the bushing.

It’s just a friction fit, there is no adhesive, bonding etc. that holds the bushing together.

This is a QA1 LCA that came with brand new rubber LCA bushings, showing the bushing disassembled with the shells and rubber intact

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The saga continues. They sent me replacement bushings (McQuay-Norris) and I’m seeing the issue that some of you have described where the sleeve ID is too big. The pin just slips in and out, Not a press fit. Ho-hum. I ordered the pro-forged as it seems some people on here have had good luck with those. Will have to wait another week.
 
Dammit. Just dammit. Sorry you're having so much trouble finding good parts. It shouldn't be like this. To @72bluNblu, are you SURE there's no adhesive holding the bushings and sleeves together? I always thought they were vulcanized but I guess I am mistaken.
 
Dammit. Just dammit. Sorry you're having so much trouble finding good parts. It shouldn't be like this. To @72bluNblu, are you SURE there's no adhesive holding the bushings and sleeves together? I always thought they were vulcanized but I guess I am mistaken.

I am sure that I have never seen any kind of adhesive or vulcanizing at that bushing. All of the ones I have seen have been a friction fit.

And really there’s no need for anything else. The amount of compression that takes place on the rubber means the pressure and resulting friction force on the surface area of the rubber is more than the rubber can withstand in shear.

Which is why the rubber bushing will tear if it’s not torqued when the LCA is at ride height.
 
Yeah, when I took the "Harris" ones back out I did not notice any adhesive on the rubber. She said those ones were original manufacture so maybe they are NOS and the rubber is just ancient... I don't know. The ID on the new ones they sent are clearly off. Even my cheap/crappy calipers show one at 13/16 and the other at 51/64. The lady says they have had no previous complaints.... luckily I don't need this car to get to work. :)
 
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