Cam and Stall Convertor

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Yes, there are other cam companies...solids will make more power.......but he's said he's building a stroker later on. So he needs somethin affordable....at least was my line of thinkin. You know.....cookie cutter Comp affordable. but hay, as I said, that was only my opinion. Anything bigger, solid hydraulic or whateve will be better than what's there now.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Yes, there are other cam companies...solids will make more power.......but he's said he's building a stroker later on. So he needs somethin affordable....at least was my line of thinkin. You know.....cookie cutter Comp affordable. but hay, as I said, that was only my opinion. Anything bigger, solid hydraulic or whateve will be better than what's there now.
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You nailed it on the head. Budget build to get me through this race season. Will be building stroker next winter.
 
Now wait a minute guys, his 318 is stock and your suggesting a big cam? IDK about that move. It doesn't sound to good to me.

Budget now, big money spent later, well, I would not be swapping the used cam into the new stroker, that is for sure. It probably wouldn't match the new combo anyway.

You stated (OE poster) that your trapping at 5K. With that cam, the XE262, your trapping a hair low, but that ain't so bad either. A move to another gear ratio to adjust that now would only, most likely, be a waste of money and time since the new combo will want more gear. And a lot of it.
 
If you aren't changing springs, put the biggest cam in it that the current ones will handle. If a 284/484 108lsa will go do that or an equivalent, put it in at 100-102. Cheap springs retainers locks are about $125.

The thmpr or the mutha thmpr would be good if the springs can handle it.

60403 Lunati is another that would be OK

Spend money on an 8" converter set up for you anticipated HP/TQ of your stroker engine.

Having a bunch of stall won't really hurt and the 318 won't make the torque of a stroker so it will tighten up.
 
Again basing this on the fact that it's a bone stock 318 now, and you want to limit the mods to bolt ons that might work on the stroker too... I'd:
- keep the gears you have. The stroker will like them and they'll work for now.
- If you're trapping at 5K, that won't change much, so a cam that is designed to make power to 5500 is fine. The trick is to find one that is large enough under the curve but not enough lift to stay clear of pistons, and slow enough rate of lift to need the heads to come off to be cut for dual springs. I like the idea of a solid lifter deal, and the stroker can use the rockers... So I'd recommed the Comp Magnum 270S. It runs the 901-16 springs (cheap and easy) and won't get you near the valve to piston problems, and should make peak torque around 3K depending. You will need new rockers and push rods...
You may want to try the Performer 318 intake rather than the RPM too. The RPM s a little big for a stock compression 318 and you don't need the volume due to the relatively low rpm of the setup.
For the convertor - Get something like the Mancini branded 2200-2500 9.5 units. They'r echeap and work well. The trick is that 60'. These changes will give you some things to play with during the summer - Like collector length, carb tuning (I think you've got some improvements to be made there now regardless), and chassis setup. You should be able to do all this, plus a used intake for around $1000 with new rockers.
 
crackedback said:
If you aren't changing springs, put the biggest cam in it that the current ones will handle. If a 284/484 108lsa will go do that or an equivalent, put it in at 100-102. Cheap springs retainers locks are about $125.

The thmpr or the mutha thmpr would be good if the springs can handle it.

60403 Lunati is another that would be OK

Spend money on an 8" converter set up for you anticipated HP/TQ of your stroker engine.

Having a bunch of stall won't really hurt and the 318 won't make the torque of a stroker so it will tighten up.
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I disagree with most of this. The 284/484 will be a turd in a 318, even with lots of advance and 4s series gearing that he doesnt have nor wants to spend on. If the idea is to go MP for cost, I'd go with the .528 solid.
The Thumpers and Voodoos need much better springs - and retainers - and locks, and they are so fast opening that the piston to valve may be a problem even with relatively low lift. there are no valve reliefs...
Spending on a good race convertor when you are completely changing the character of the package next season is a waste of $6-800. Wait until you have aplan, and get something that will work cheaply for now.
I think you've got your head in the right place, but I read this as "cheap n charming.... for now..." Buying expensive parts for future packages just doesnt feel right and usually ends up being a double expense later anyway.
 
I should probably clarify that I am not planning on using any of the parts off the 318 for the 360 stroker. When I pull the 318 it will be sold.
 
That's why I was stickin with hydraulic. I was figurin you probably had stock rocker gear. You might look at the Hughes Whiplash cams too. They are designed much like the Comp thumpr cams....they sound mean but maximize cylinder pressure for stock engines. You might could see about gettin close to one of those in a solid, but that's more money.
 
I must have missed something because this is a race car...

Put a 4000-4500 converter in it with a thumpr or voodoo with springs or a solid with rockers/pushrods and springs and you're looking at less cost with hyd.

Spend 300 on a junk converter now only to buy a better one later for more money. Works out same in the end sending the 8" back for a re-tool. Most vendors will do it at least once for free so no $'s out there except shipping.

This is a patchwork build with the desire for more power. pick your poison. I'll take the bigger cam with a bunch more converter, it's a race only car, which will DEFINITELY cover the lack of 4 series gear. Not like it has 2.76 gears in it, it's got 3.91's and short tires. If this was a street driven, daily driver, no way in hell would I suggest anything like that.

Heck go grab Strokers favorite reading material, the chassis manual and see what they say about getting a 318 into the 12's... :)
 
Yeah, caint beat them recipes.
 
I forgot to add that I am already running SS springs with 90/10 up front and 50/50 in the rear. Should I go with the thumpr or voodoo mentioned earlier in the post. Drag car only. No street use. I am going to try and squeeze a 28 9.5 15 tire under this Dart also.
 
Unless you change gearing, I would not put a taller tire on it.

It's currently struggling to rev on the big end and your going to make it harder with a taller tire.
 
I was thinking that may be a little to much tire. I would have a heck of a time squeezing that under there without moving the springs. Going to focus on my teen for now.
 
HemiTM said:
I forgot to add that I am already running SS springs with 90/10 up front and 50/50 in the rear. Should I go with the thumpr or voodoo mentioned earlier in the post. Drag car only. No street use. I am going to try and squeeze a 28 9.5 15 tire under this Dart also.
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I wouldn't. But it's not my car. Just make a choice and go for it.
 
I decided to order the Comp Cams XE268H complete kit. When I do sell the 318 next year, I feel that this cam may be a little more appealling to a buyer, rather than something radical. As much as I want to go radical, probably not the right choice. Thanks to all of you for your input.
 
HemiTM said:
I decided to order the Comp Cams XE268H complete kit. When I do sell the 318 next year, I feel that this cam may be a little more appealling to a buyer, rather than something radical. As much as I want to go radical, probably not the right choice. Thanks to all of you for your input.
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That will work good.
 
Turd, not my way with a good converter. You want it to run 12's, I'd suggest you buy a good converter. Who cares how it runs at idle-3K when you are racing with 4k+ converter.

I see there are "other" considerations now, future sale. IMO, you'll be very close to running 12's. The lighter the car, the better. Work on the 60'. It's good now, but still about .05-.10 light for your current ET. The converter will help here.

I see you made a choice. It will run good with that cam. My guess, tuned up right it will make about 310-320 corrected hp at the flywheel. A 360 with that cam, ld340, headers, 750dp making a corrected 345hp/400tq with a 2500 converter, 2.93 gears at 3250#, ran 14.15 at 103.5 with 2.2 60's in 4000ft air in Vegas. My guess it might have made 320hp in the air available.

Good luck.
 
crackedback said:
Race car, put a solid cam in it, like a XS274s or XS282S and an 8" 4500 converter and run it in the 12's...

Put 4.56's in it too.
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That's what I was thinking. If it's a RACE car, put a RACE cam, converter and gears in it.

If you want to stay hydraulic, have someone grind you a Stock Eliminator camshaft from about 10 years ago and the matching 8" converter.
 
I had the same set up and went with the XE268H cam. I loved it. It really woke the car up. I went with a 2400-2800 stall, but I drove on the street. I just changed motor and tranny and can't use my stall anymore. I would be willing to sell it for a fair price. I put it in last April a week after I bought the car and drove it until I stored it in October. It probably has 3000 miles on it. I'd take $150 plus shipping if you want it. I bought it locally here from Midwest Performance Converters. It was $290 new. It probably isn't enough for straight drag, but a light build 318 isn't either, which is why I switched to the 408 stroker. My 318 was quick, no question, but stacking against other cars with 340's and 360's I got my butt whooped.
 
Mopar to ya said:
I had the same set up and went with the XE268H cam. I loved it. It really woke the car up. I went with a 2400-2800 stall, but I drove on the street. I just changed motor and tranny and can't use my stall anymore. I would be willing to sell it for a fair price. I put it in last April a week after I bought the car and drove it until I stored it in October. It probably has 3000 miles on it. I'd take $150 plus shipping if you want it. I bought it locally here from Midwest Performance Converters. It was $290 new. It probably isn't enough for straight drag, but a light build 318 isn't either, which is why I switched to the 408 stroker. My 318 was quick, no question, but stacking against other cars with 340's and 360's I got my butt whooped.
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PM sent
 
A torque converter will stall based on the torque it see from the engine..a 318 does not generate alot of torque, a 3000k converter behind a 318 will hard pressed to flash to 2400-2500 rpm.....

you stock converter probably flashes around 2000 rpm....you are not going to see a lot of gain for your money spend...

as said several times buy a GOOD Converter...it is night and day in launching a car.... many ions ago...i replaced a 10 tci converter which flashed at best to 3000 rpm behind a 340...and bought a Turbo Action 8 inch..that flashed to 4700 rpm....picked up 6 tenths...

In fact that converter I bought back in the early 80s is still in use in my 71 Demon...flashes to about 4800 behind a 360 these days..last time out went 1.502 to 1.514....60 ft time..

but hey..it is only money...nothing like buying the parts twice...
 
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