Cam Centerline questions

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Here is a question. Pretty much every solid I have looked at gives a different stall for a 340 and a 360. Obviously, it is because of the longer stroke of the 360 moving the rpm range of the cam down a little. How much lower, in general, does the rpm range, and stall speed, move in an engine with a 4" stroke? Also, can a stroker get away with using less static compression than the cam manufacturer recommends?
 
They said 278/282 adv, 251/[email protected], .570/582 lift, 108lsa, and a 104 centerline. I thought this was a little small for what I want, but, they make cams, not me lol.

It's not a big cam for that engine per say but it will act and sound like one due to the LSA and centerline.

What would happen if the cl was changed from 104 to 106? It brought my dynamic compression down to something that might work.

Assuming all other cam specs stay the same.. as the CL gets bigger, I.e. 104-112. The idle will mild out and the powerband will flatten out and become broader.

I am still leaning towards a few Lunati cams recommended by a well-respected builder on here, but I do have a used solid that I may be able to regrind or something. Guess I am just trying to learn.

Lunati makes decent stuff. I'm sold on comp cams.

Also, what would the aproximate rpm range be on that cam? Stall?

2500-6000. stall should be around 3500.

Here is a question. Pretty much every solid I have looked at gives a different stall for a 340 and a 360. Obviously, it is because of the longer stroke of the 360 moving the rpm range of the cam down a little. How much lower, in general, does the rpm range, and stall speed, move in an engine with a 4" stroke? Also, can a stroker get away with using less static compression than the cam manufacturer recommends?

A bigger cubic inch engine will mellow out any given cam. For instance, put your cam specs in a 540 cubic inch big block, all of a sudden that cam acts a whole lot smaller.
 
More on stall. Street use vs. Strip use. Dynamic convertors told me when I had them build my custom convertor that ideally the stall should be approx where you make peak torque. My car was street/strip. The engine made 514ft/lbs @ 3900-4100. I sent them the dyno sheet and they built me a "tight 9" convertor that stalled right in that range.

Before buying the convertor i'd wait until you get the engine back from the dyno. See what it does.
 
More on stall. Street use vs. Strip use. Dynamic convertors told me when I had them build my custom convertor that ideally the stall should be approx where you make peak torque. My car was street/strip. The engine made 514ft/lbs @ 3900-4100. I sent them the dyno sheet and they built me a "tight 9" convertor that stalled right in that range.

Before buying the convertor i'd wait until you get the engine back from the dyno. See what it does.

Thanks for all the answers! Alot of that I kind of assumed/educated guessed, good to hear that I may not be too far off yet lol.

Thats exactly what I thought about a converter, especially since I have never built something like this before.

I always just built engines with at the most a little more compression, and that was 1 engine--a 455 olds, and it was barely 9.5-9.6, and I was only 18. Sincethen, its been basic rebuilds with mild ([email protected]) cams, old style intakes (LD340, strip dominator), I have only paid for machine work on one engine, the 455, and that was just bore/hone/tank/polish/press pistons. Not even a balance job. I always port my own heads, and I do go into meticulous detail setting things up. I just never had the money to "build" an engine (yeah, like I do right now haha).

I could spec out parts for a 360 like that all day long, converter, whatever. But, this is way more expensive, and alot different. I am glad to be able to get advice and recommendations from everyone here. Keep it coming!
 
Put some thick headgaskets on it. Then you pick a cam & enjoy the pump swill. If it detonates & you don't know it, you could find yourself starting over.
 
Didn't you used to have a solid flat tappet in yours? From what I can tell, it seems like the solid rollers are more streetable than the flat tappets. Hmmm...

Yes it was just under 14:1 CR with a .559 lift solid flat tappet with 255 ish duration @.050. I had no choice but to run race fuel. Due to the direction I was going with the rebuild, the bigger roller cam was the way to go to try and keep as much horsepower as I had before while lowering the CR to 11:1. Plus it will make it more street friendly to boot. I talked to dynamic yesterday and they have a deal going right now. Lenny recommended their 9.5" with a stall around 4000, and it's $100 off right now making it $595. Just throwing that out there. Ultimate quoted something like $900 or $950 and Continental quoted $850.
 
Put some thick headgaskets on it. Then you pick a cam & enjoy the pump swill. If it detonates & you don't know it, you could find yourself starting over.

I think that is definitely in the works. I was against thick head gaskets for some odd reason. You mentioned it, I started thinking, why am I against that? It isn't like I am gonna have any quench anyway...then another member or two mentioned it. I think I will do it.

Yes it was just under 14:1 CR with a .559 lift solid flat tappet with 255 ish duration @.050. I had no choice but to run race fuel. Due to the direction I was going with the rebuild, the bigger roller cam was the way to go to try and keep as much horsepower as I had before while lowering the CR to 11:1. Plus it will make it more street friendly to boot. I talked to dynamic yesterday and they have a deal going right now. Lenny recommended their 9.5" with a stall around 4000, and it's $100 off right now making it $595. Just throwing that out there. Ultimate quoted something like $900 or $950 and Continental quoted $850.

Man...I wish I had the money for the converter right now, thats a good price! Is that your old set up thats on youtube? Sounds really good, I made my son sit and listen to it! lol
 
Oh, I took crackedbacks advice and contacted another well-respected builder. He gave me the general outline of the cam he would recommend, and it is in line, or a little bigger, than what cracked and rrr were saying. He also said to use thicker head gaskets, try to bring the compression down to 10.4. So, that is the plan. I think that between deshrouding the valves, polishing the chambers, and the thicker head gaskets, it won't be too hard.
 
If it detonates & you don't know it, you could find yourself starting over.

I had just that. I couldn't realy hear it. I changed my curve and had a slight change in sound but my engine temps went down.
 
Man...I wish I had the money for the converter right now, thats a good price! Is that your old set up thats on youtube? Sounds really good, I made my son sit and listen to it! lol

Lenny said that he would take a deposit on a converter so that you could lock in on the price if you didn't necessarily need the converter right now or just couldn't afford it. Then pay later. Just a thought.

And yes the videos on youtube are my old setup. The new one is still in progress.
 
Also check into PTC. I don't know a whole lot about them other than a friend runs one in his pro mod car and recommended it. Their 9.5" is $475. That seems cheap so I'm a little weary of that. But Tim at PTC did say it's a billet front with furnace brazed fins, etc which some other companies do not do and charge more for a similar converter. So it did sound like it was a quality unit.
 
Cool! I am going to try to call around either today or tomorrow. Thanks for the info! I always forget about PTC, everytime I think of a converter I always think of Dynamic, I think I remember the ads more from Mopar Action in the pre-internet days for some reason (I'm 34 but I have been getting Mopar Action since I was 13! lol) I will be making a call here in a little bit to talk about my cam.
 
PTC is decent, top of the heap IMO is Ultimate Convertor. Not cheap - but well worth it.
 
I'd call Lenny at Ultimate or Sean at Dynamic before, WAY before, calling some of the others listed here.
 
I'd call Lenny at Ultimate or Sean at Dynamic before, WAY before, calling some of the others listed here.


A note based ont he comment of Dynamic "pre internet"...
There are two Dynamics:
One is Dynamic in North Branford, CT - that's the old one that Frank Lupo started many many years ago. He sold it years ago but they still use his name (and TCT convertors).
The other one is Frank Lupo's Dynamic Convertor in MD. Lupo's is the one that most refer to (with Shawn).
 
Thats good to know, because I remember the older ads being "Dynamic" and then I saw somw that said "Frank Lupo's Dynamic" and I just thought they changed the name or something. Thanks! I still have yet to call...trying to wrap up this magnum and finish the fall cleanup/winter prep of the homestead. I hate leaves!
 
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