cam for flat tops with no valve reliefs

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canner78

canner78
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weyburn sk
i have a 360 that has flat top pistons with no valve reliefs. i am running stock j heads. i am planning on getting hardend valve seats put in and some porting done. i was wondering if anybody knows how much lift i can go with my cam before i run into clearance issues. the guy i bought the car from said that i can`t go any larger than a 450 lift cam. does this sound right?

what is the easiest way to check what the cam is that is in my car?
 
The easy way is to install the cam you want and rotate it around the engine with clay ontop of the pistons.

Also realize that a Hyd. cams lifters are not pumped up when you do this. Grab 2 solid lifters and use them on checking this clearance. Proper pushrod length is needed.

I beileve others here said they use a purple 292/.509 without problems. I'd wait for a been there and done that myself.
 
The reason that the guy said that is the retainer to guide clearence wont let you run more than this without cutting the guides down.
 
Never mind.

Checking Piston To Valve Clearance
RHS™ strongly urges you to check the piston to valve clearance on the larger street cams and all race cams. The easiest and most accurate way to check this is to place strips of modeling clay on top of one piston, and then rotate the engine over by hand with the cylinder head bolted in place and all of the valve train components adjusted. If there is any resistance during rotation of the crankshaft, STOP! The piston has probably hit the valve. Then you must decide whether to fly cut the piston, or exchange the cam for a profile that will fit into your engine. Note: Minimum piston to valve clearance is .080” on the intake and .100” on the exhaust valves. If aluminum connecting rods are being used, add a minimum of .030” to these suggested clearance figures. Aluminum rods will stretch and expand more than steel rods.
Note: Be sure to check piston to valve clearance after the cam has been degreed. The positioning of the cam in the engine will greatly affect the piston to valve clearance.

With the camshaft installed, remove the cylinder head from the block. Clean the combustion chamber and the top of the piston and valve reliefs. The cleaner the piston, the better the clay will stick to it.

Apply a strip of model clay 3/8” to ½” wide approximately ¼” thick to the pistons. The clay strip should be long enough to run across both the intake and exhaust valve reliefs. Applying a small amount of oil to the clay will prevent it from sticking to the valves as they press into it.

Reinstall the cylinder head with the head gasket that is going to be used. It will not be necessary to torque the head yet. All head gasket manufacturers can tell you what the compressed thickness of their gasket will be. Measure the gasket before you install it permanently and add the difference to the piston to valve clearance. Install a sufficient number of head bolts to secure the head in place while you are rotating the engine. Install the pushrods, lifters and rocker arms on the cylinder you have prepared for the clearance check.

Adjust the rocker arms to their suggested clearance. If the camshaft you are checking uses hydraulic lifters, you must temporarily use solid lifters in their place. Hydraulic lifters bleed down and will provide a false measurement. Once the hydraulic lifters are replaced with solid lifters, adjust the lash to “zero.” Be sure not to pre-load the valve spring. Be sure to reinstall the hydraulic lifters before starting the engine.

Now turn the engine over by hand in the normal direction of rotation. Be sure to rotate the engine over two times. This will be one complete revolution of the camshaft and assure you of an accurate reading on both the intake and exhaust. Remove the cylinder head from the block. Do this gently, so the clay is not disturbed. It may be stuck to the valves or combustion chamber, so be careful.

With a razor or sharp knife, slice the clay cleanly -lengthwise through the depression, and peel half of it off the piston. The clay’s thickness in the thinnest area will represent the minimum piston to valve clearance.

To accurately check the thickness, use a set of dial calipers. The clay can also be measured close enough with a thin steel rule.
 
I might need to ask it in a different manner. I've always heard of doing the clay check but was not sure how to do it properly.

How much clay needs to be used? It would seem that you could put to much and the valves will always make a dent in the clay. Or it does not manner if once you rotated the motor you look to see if the clay has been cut all the way to the piston?
 
You want the clay to be dented. If it doesn't dent, you ethier didn't put enuff down or the valve is just miles away. You want it to be dented so you can measure the thickness at the thinest point. That would be your clearance.

Remove the cylinder head.
Put down a 1/2 inch of modeling clay.
rotate engine 2 full turns
Clay gets dented
cut clay in half and measure the thickness of the clay at the thinest point

re-read post #3, BJR makes a point.
 
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