Moparbaker
Well-Known Member
I've been offered to buy a high performance cam... The thing is that it says "from -64 & up" but my engine is a -89 roller cam engine, so I reckon it won't work, right?
Cam for LA...
- Thread starter Moparbaker
- Start date
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Mopar44134
Well-Known Member
as Long as you use flat tappet lifters and the matching pushrods, it will work.
Plymouth 65
I'll be in the shop
You'll need oil through pushrods to run a LA cam in a roller block. 65'
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Only if it is a Magnum block.
The LA roller blocks still use internal rocker oiling.
If you have to ask, it would be better to just say no, it won't work.
4mulas
Fixem'up
I’m with toolmanMike, also why would you want a flat tappet cam when you have a roller cam motor? Just buy a roller high-po cam? Way Less risk of a run flat cam
This risk factor is on the machining of the block, more specifically the lifter bores being straight and round. Not the cam and lifters. The internet craze of cams going flat isn’t what everyone thinks it is and is IMO blown out of proportion. In my 38 years of playing with engines and more camshafts changed out than most people would ever do, I have one and only one cam go south on me. That was my mistake. I rushed it. The lifter bore needed to be addressed.
If the flat tappet or camshaft doesn’t have a taper ground on it, there is the other failure point.
Otherwise, IMO, if the cam is new and cheap, it’s a possible route to take. The possible draw back is the parts cost needed to make it work. Does the cam come with lifters? How much are the oil through pushrods?
This is where adding everything up comes into play. With recent price increases everywhere, this should be checked.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
And you can reuse the current roller lifters as long as they're in good shape. If they've already been running in the engine without issue then your block obviously won't have machining issues to address.
4mulas
Fixem'up
im seeing more and more of this
also I’m not too sure if I agree with the other part of your comment. I have a 69 383 hp block that had a lot of miles on it trouble free without requiring special machining or attention to the lifter bores and it didn’t wipe a cam. I installed a summit cam just try one out and three lobes went.
put in a Hughes cam and lifters the next try and it was fine. Why is the Hughes set up okay and not the summit set up? **** cams….
Funny you should say that because the cam that went south on me was a Summit cam. Slammed in a Thumper from Comp and all is fine.
Looking at all the parts of this adventure, many things can go wrong. Let’s make a list for all to see. (Maybe even add on to?)
Camshaft;
Not straight
No bevel on the lobe
Cam not treated correctly
The - soft metal thing I have only heard of once before. 1980’s Chevy’s had a big problem in there 305 & 350’s. Who remembers that?
Lifters;
Bad machining as in, not the correct diameter or
Not the correct or not at all crown ground in.
Hyd. lifter tapping noise that never goes away.
(IDK WTH is going on there!)
Lifter should be easy to spin in the bores with a light coating of oil by hand. Make this check everyone!
Engine block;
Out of round and crooked lifter bores.
Scored lifter bore.
Debrise- anywhere!
Oil pump good? New doesn’t mean good.
Block oiling system primed?
Break in oil used?
New filter?
What cam lube did you use? How long did it sit for? Was it still coated? Did you use some high pressure or cam lube on other contact points? (Rocker tips on the valve, pushrod top and bottom points.)
I like the Isky cam lube. It sticks to the cam.
The list is king and I bet someone could add on to this list of must do points. I know why my cam went south. Yours, I can guess.
I’m just glad your second stick worked! Such a nightmare when your at the finish line and you have to tear it all down again.
Looking at all the parts of this adventure, many things can go wrong. Let’s make a list for all to see. (Maybe even add on to?)
Camshaft;
Not straight
No bevel on the lobe
Cam not treated correctly
The - soft metal thing I have only heard of once before. 1980’s Chevy’s had a big problem in there 305 & 350’s. Who remembers that?
Lifters;
Bad machining as in, not the correct diameter or
Not the correct or not at all crown ground in.
Hyd. lifter tapping noise that never goes away.
(IDK WTH is going on there!)
Lifter should be easy to spin in the bores with a light coating of oil by hand. Make this check everyone!
Engine block;
Out of round and crooked lifter bores.
Scored lifter bore.
Debrise- anywhere!
Oil pump good? New doesn’t mean good.
Block oiling system primed?
Break in oil used?
New filter?
What cam lube did you use? How long did it sit for? Was it still coated? Did you use some high pressure or cam lube on other contact points? (Rocker tips on the valve, pushrod top and bottom points.)
I like the Isky cam lube. It sticks to the cam.
The list is king and I bet someone could add on to this list of must do points. I know why my cam went south. Yours, I can guess.
I’m just glad your second stick worked! Such a nightmare when your at the finish line and you have to tear it all down again.
4mulas
Fixem'up
I remember 305/350 ‘butter’ cams!
RF360 has a good checklist and valid points. Not only should the lifter spin in the bore, turn the cam by hand after you put the lifter in and make sure it spins in the bore buy the cams influence. Sometimes by just changing which lifter is on what lobe is all it takes to ensure a higher degree of success…
RF360 has a good checklist and valid points. Not only should the lifter spin in the bore, turn the cam by hand after you put the lifter in and make sure it spins in the bore buy the cams influence. Sometimes by just changing which lifter is on what lobe is all it takes to ensure a higher degree of success…
AHHHHHH!!!! Bingo! Good addition!
In the years before the internet, as to find out what does what on an engine there weren’t to many people that could tell you anything or any help to a degree worthy of mention UNLESS they themselves have been there and done that. For the most part, everyone just did the copy cat thing. No real fault there.
I, myself however decided to purchase intake after intake, carb after carb, cam after cam, cylinder head after cylinder head. I just kept on buying parts. I still have too many parts for my fleet of 4 cars. (Yep - Gluten for punishment I am.)
2-W2’s, 2/W5’s, 3 states of Edelbrock heads, shortly to trade the stock edelbrock head for a set of Magnum R/T’s. 5 sets of headers, (stock heads not included in this fiasco!)
4 sets of roller rockers, 4 or 5 sets of various mufflers…
Why? I just gotta know. Dyno testing one day soon.
Replicarracer43 is about to finish up a W2 short block for me.
This is gonna be fun!
In the years before the internet, as to find out what does what on an engine there weren’t to many people that could tell you anything or any help to a degree worthy of mention UNLESS they themselves have been there and done that. For the most part, everyone just did the copy cat thing. No real fault there.
I, myself however decided to purchase intake after intake, carb after carb, cam after cam, cylinder head after cylinder head. I just kept on buying parts. I still have too many parts for my fleet of 4 cars. (Yep - Gluten for punishment I am.)
2-W2’s, 2/W5’s, 3 states of Edelbrock heads, shortly to trade the stock edelbrock head for a set of Magnum R/T’s. 5 sets of headers, (stock heads not included in this fiasco!)
4 sets of roller rockers, 4 or 5 sets of various mufflers…
Why? I just gotta know. Dyno testing one day soon.
Replicarracer43 is about to finish up a W2 short block for me.
This is gonna be fun!
Moparbaker
Well-Known Member
Fer sure this gave me easily enough info to wait for a roller cam!
It's interesting...
It's interesting...
I’m all for the roller cam. Keeping the OEM rollers (if ya got them) has only their weight as a draw back. Heavy suckers they are. Cheap as heck if you need to get one or a whole engine set.
A lot of people suggest a retro d. I’m not sure who charges what on a regrind, but I don’t call it a huge win when you add in shipping to and from the regrinders. I’m sure you’ll save a few bucks.
A lot of people suggest a retro d. I’m not sure who charges what on a regrind, but I don’t call it a huge win when you add in shipping to and from the regrinders. I’m sure you’ll save a few bucks.
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