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MOPARCODY

MOPARCODY

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im thinking about having a new cam cut for my car.

car 65 dodge dart 2780lbs
904 fmvb
3800 stall (foot brakes to 3k)
3.91 gears
28' tall tires (drag radials)

engine 5.9 360 out of a 2000 dakota r/t
stock bottom end
eddy untouched magnum style heads
1.7rr
air gap intake (edelbrock)
750 dp
1 5/8 hooker headers


heres a quick vid with the old 380hp crate motor cam (excuse my friends language)
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvAxLLCgi_s"]IMG 0741 - YouTube[/ame]
 
Best best is to call up a cam grinder and ask them. Bullet, and Oregon cam come to mind, they'll set you up right for cheap!
 
Bullet's not cheap - but really good. I know Oregon is cheap. I'm not sure how effective their profiles can be. You might want to consider 1.6 rockers to help reduce the spring pressure you need.
 
According to your other thread,you seem to be nosing over after 5500. That 1.7 rocker ratio,needs to be addressed to whoever makes the cam suggestions. That extra step,is worth .025"-.035" lift over the advertised lift spec. Bullitt & Oregon cams have done several regrinds ,for members here. A new cam grinder,several.... Members MRL,IQ52,and Ou812 here,all Mopar specialist's. That would be my recommendations. Spec wise,probably around 236/240 @.050 ,less ramp lift because of the 1.7 rockers. (Just my opinion,on a guesstimate...). Fwiw,all three of the recommended in this post,are directly connected/or race Mopars.
 
call Erson cams, the best call you'll ever make. they have some nice grinds and I believe they custom grind as well.
 
Erson's also been on a media blitz - they may be willing to make a deal too...
 
moper said:
Erson's also been on a media blitz - they may be willing to make a deal too...
Click to expand...

yea they called me since i posted they went under, after 4 years of never picking up the phone i gave up on them...
 
i have had nothing but problems with the 1.7 rockers. for some reason the come loose walk around and cause my push rods to rub the guide plates. i bought em used for a good price but its time for them to go. these heads allow me to run a chebby rocker so i have a lot of options there but, what brand would you guys suggest?
 
Pretty sure rusty recommended the Hughes tied shaft style rockers...they're a little on the pricey side, but you pay for quality and they bolt directly to the magnum Edelbrock castings...and they're adjustable.
 
txstang84 said:
Pretty sure rusty recommended the Hughes tied shaft style rockers...they're a little on the pricey side, but you pay for quality and they bolt directly to the magnum Edelbrock castings...and they're adjustable.
Click to expand...


well..they do bolt on to the eddy magnum head...but you need to remove the heil coil thread insert where the stud bolts into the head....then you need to put a new tread insert in the head...

then the hughes magnum rockers will work on a eddy magnum head.


[ame]http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/HUG1555A_Instructions.pdf[/ame]
 
The Hughes rockers I recommended are advertised to work on iron heads only. They might can be made to work on aluminum heads like Tony says, but they are not advertised to. They are nice pieces though.

I also really like the little Comp cast steel roller tip only rockers. They are nice. Very affordable too. I just put them on my little Ford motor.

These:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-rp1416-16/overview/

And you need this too:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-36655-16/overview/

It's a really nice little kit. I put that and the Comp rockers on my 302. You also need to make sure to get the right length pushrod. Sometimes the stock ones will work, sometimes not. I needed longer ones.
 
yes..those are the ones....go to bottom of page..click on instructions..and the pdf link that i posted will show up..
 
True true! I neglected to mention there are specific ones for iron heads and for aluminum heads...my bad gents.
 
That they are, but they're about the cheapest alternative for a semi-legit shaft mount rocker system on a magnum.
 
The cam in the crate engine should make power to the upper 5's and maybe 6K.

Something is making a mess of the higher rpm range, like jetting or valve springs.

Just because edelbrock says the springs are good to X lift, doesn't mean they will be good to that lift with a roller cam. It's a horrible way to sell a product and now they have another part number for roller applications. hmmmm. I don't think the ede springs have enough seat or nose pressure to control the valvetrain.
 
looks like ill be upgrading the valve springs as well as having a new cam cut. im also going to see if I can swing a set of those hughes rockers.

thanks FABO!
 
im on the phone with bullet having a cam spec'ed and he has a couple questions i dont know the answer too, maybe you guys could help me out.

1: will the head take a 1.50 od spring?
2: do the eddy magnum heads have the telfon seal?
3: what is the measurement from the retainer to the guide on the eddy heads?
 
If it was my car, I'd put a good valve spring on it and get the jetting spread under control. I'd put a set of beehives on it, set to ~.060-.080 of coil bind and see what it does.

The rockers were likely giving you problems because they were getting the snot kicked out of them because your valve springs were weak.

The cam in the engine is OK and you don't need a tear down to do the valve springs.
 
...to save a few $$, if you choose to buy COMP beehives, look for Trick Flows springs with the same part number (different prefix)...they're the same spring made by the same supplier, but with less overhead, so they're cheaper.

Ex: Comp beehive springs from summit 26915-16 $176
TFS beehives from summit 16915-16 $125

Same spring, same rates, same part...just cheaper. Not saying those are the ones to buy--just an example.
 
crackedback said:
If it was my car, I'd put a good valve spring on it and get the jetting spread under control. I'd put a set of beehives on it, set to ~.060-.080 of coil bind and see what it does.

The rockers were likely giving you problems because they were getting the snot kicked out of them because your valve springs were weak.

The cam in the engine is OK and you don't need a tear down to do the valve springs.
Click to expand...

I agree, those stock Edelbrock springs that say they are good for .570 lift are talking about flat tappet spring pressures, and not made to control a roller lifter that weighs more than a flat tappet...not to mention that roller ramps are more aggressive than flat tappet ramps (typically)....and I won't even get into the fact that you can just say a spring is good for X-amount of lift without knowing anything about the ramp....but I digress. Stick some good springs on and let it eat! :D
 
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