Manifolds. Everything external is factory, and leaving it that way.
A few minor inside mods I toy with
Cam Selection 360
- Thread starter emmett442
- Start date
-
A few minor inside mods I toy with
That Melling 22 cam looks like a good one, but I like rusty’s summit 6901 a little better. It has a touch more duration at the same lsa.
I would go with a new double roller timing chain and new valve springs as well.
I would go with a new double roller timing chain and new valve springs as well.
The 252 is an exact duplicate of the iwm 360-2bbl cam except for an increase in lift by 0.015" not enough to even mention essentially a stock replacement. Good upgrade for mild 318 though.
If I was doing a 360 and wanting a COMP cam id probably go with the 260.
Volaredon,
You make a good point about the Comp 260 cam. The 360 is a long stroke engine & as such will tolerate more cam duration for more hp without hurting idle & low end tq. A lot of people don't get this....The tight-er 110 LSA is also good.
You make a good point about the Comp 260 cam. The 360 is a long stroke engine & as such will tolerate more cam duration for more hp without hurting idle & low end tq. A lot of people don't get this....The tight-er 110 LSA is also good.
Looks like cam availability is a real issue right now. Just about all of the suggestions here are out of stock and, due to external influences like the need for garage space, I need to keep moving on this project.
How does the Edelbrock 2177 look to you guys?
Looks like similar lift, a touch more duration, 4 degrees advance ground in
How does the Edelbrock 2177 look to you guys?
Looks like similar lift, a touch more duration, 4 degrees advance ground in
A exact duplicate? LMAO! Wasn’t the OEM cam on a 114? This one on a 110. Then there’s more lift. Have you checked the overlap specs? How about valve timing points?
Exact duplicate my ***!
If will provide more torque and HP. Just a nudge more.
That is a slight nudge more than a stock cam. Expect stock 2bbl. type of performance. It should provide a little more torque off idle. If your looking for stock like performance, that’s not a bad choice.
Perfect. Appreciate the feedback!
Seems expensive for what it is. But, sometimes you "gotta do what you gotta do".
Your welcome. It’s not an exact duplicate but it’ll work very well as a replacement cam, no doubt.
Forget the #6901 i've had one on order since september ,they do have the #1789 in stock however I settled for the engle 943p which is in stock at cometition products for $129 its .447 x .447 , 223 x 223 @.050 on a 112 , very similar to the 6901 which is my go to cam for a stockish 360 w/edelbrock performer and 600 cfm of your choice , works well car or truck.
Last edited:
Bryan Lohmiller
Well-Known Member
a couple other peopled are recommending to just go with a roller cam to save the headache and if you do have a cam failure by the time you tear it down again to get all the metal out of the engine plus a new cam your probably cheaper to have gone roller to start with this is one of the better videos I have seen on this problem
When I first used the 360-2 cam in a 318, I looked like and hard at the comp 252 and the stock 360-2 cam specs the stock cam in a few years worth of Mopar factory service manuals and specs found in catalogs both paper and online versions (such as summit/jegs websites) and it's been a while since I've looked at these documents, but I remember at the time, being quite surprised that between the 2 cams, unless my info had a misprint somewhere that yeah these cams were totally IDENTICAL except for that 0.015" in overall lift.
A misprint is totally possible as I have a new never been installed, MP RT+10 cam for the magnum engines that MP made in the 90s and I get 2 different LSA specs on it depending on where I look, for the same cam. I forget the exact LSA on that cam, but it's less than what some advertise for it as being, which is 119* I think it's supposed to say 109*.
Can't remember now, it's been a while since I looked into it. I just remembered seeing it listed somewhere, and thinking it didn't look right/ and looked at numbers for that same cam elsewhere and found the real numbers.
But in 3 season daily drivers, for How I use them, that 360-2 cam works well for me in a "cruiser" 318. And the difference in specs vs difference in cost of a Melling SPD 25 , 360-2 stock replacement vs a COMP 252 the difference isn't enough between them, to justify paying double for the COMP name.
HankRearden
Well-Known Member
Let me throw an odd one at you.
Dont change the cam. The trouble with flat tappet cams these days wouldnt be worth it if you just want a small bump. Why not do a magnum head swap. You get a better flowing heads,more compression and due to the rocker ratio a slight increase in lift.
Dont change the cam. The trouble with flat tappet cams these days wouldnt be worth it if you just want a small bump. Why not do a magnum head swap. You get a better flowing heads,more compression and due to the rocker ratio a slight increase in lift.
Posts #15 & #16.
That’s a good idea if it was forethought about.
For those who care to follow,
Looking more like an engine again!
Assembling the front, installed oil pan.
On disassembly, I noticed one exhaust manifold stud was broken. A curious thing, as all of the hardware was rust free and otherwise looked like new. Further investigation revealed that the exhaust port surface on the heads wasn't quite flat. I assume that, since these originally sealed without a gasket, there was no cushion to allow for that movement, putting a lot of stress on the hardware.
Waiting on the heads to get that surface flattened.
Getting close! It'll look nice once it gets a fresh coat of it's factory blue paint.
Looking more like an engine again!
Assembling the front, installed oil pan.
On disassembly, I noticed one exhaust manifold stud was broken. A curious thing, as all of the hardware was rust free and otherwise looked like new. Further investigation revealed that the exhaust port surface on the heads wasn't quite flat. I assume that, since these originally sealed without a gasket, there was no cushion to allow for that movement, putting a lot of stress on the hardware.
Waiting on the heads to get that surface flattened.
Getting close! It'll look nice once it gets a fresh coat of it's factory blue paint.
Question for you fellas...and remember, this isn't my expertise. Up until now, I've done new school roller cam only.
Should I be able to see lifters rotate while turning engine by hand? They do not. Wisdom tells me they wouldn't, all greased up, little pressure without lifters pumped up, and cam not turning fast enough.
A few attempt to rotate, but nothing significant. All lifters moved freely in their bores when installed.
Should I be able to see lifters rotate while turning engine by hand? They do not. Wisdom tells me they wouldn't, all greased up, little pressure without lifters pumped up, and cam not turning fast enough.
A few attempt to rotate, but nothing significant. All lifters moved freely in their bores when installed.
You should check for lifter before installing PR and rockers. Lifters sitting in bores. Mark each at 12 o'clock with a sharpie and spin the engine over by hand twice or 4 times. See if the marks have moved.
If they haven't in some bores, swap the non moving one to new holes and try again.
Just the way I do things.
If they haven't in some bores, swap the non moving one to new holes and try again.
Just the way I do things.
Ditto. No pressure on the lifter. This should easily rotate the lifter in the bore showing the cam and or lifter have the crown they should have. Once the engine is running and oil gets all over the cam and lifter, they will rotate.
As I put the lifter in, lightly oil lubed, I check to see if it spins easy by hand then the above. Once the pushrods and valve train is in, I rotate it again several times.
I know that sounded like over klll. I just skipped this step and wiped out a cam. What was to blame? Lifter rotation. Just that one lifter. All the other lifters rotated in their spot and where the wiper lobe was. Try the wipes lifter and it would not rotate in any lifter bore I tried. No I didn’t test every lifter bore with the bad lifter. I tested several lifters in the bad lifters bore.
As I put the lifter in, lightly oil lubed, I check to see if it spins easy by hand then the above. Once the pushrods and valve train is in, I rotate it again several times.
I know that sounded like over klll. I just skipped this step and wiped out a cam. What was to blame? Lifter rotation. Just that one lifter. All the other lifters rotated in their spot and where the wiper lobe was. Try the wipes lifter and it would not rotate in any lifter bore I tried. No I didn’t test every lifter bore with the bad lifter. I tested several lifters in the bad lifters bore.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I looked up that cam. .429 / .444 x 279* x 289*. It's close to the 340 cam. .429 / .444 x 268* / 276*.
Congrats!!! No sound on the video tho??
-
