twayne24365
Well-Known Member
So ive been lookin at various off the shelf "drag" cams forr a big block, and most of them favor a lower lift with more duration? Is there a reason for this?
Camshaft theory
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twayne24365
Well-Known Member
Solid flat tappets
tubtar
Well-Known Member
My advice is to forget a shelf grind and get a cam made for your particular combination.
It will require that you present flow numbers , real compression , end use and car weight , gear etc. etc. information.
But you will be much happier for it.
Will your car run on a " shelf " grind ?
Certainly.
And there might be an appropriate stocking cam for your deal , though the odds increase dramatically in this regard if you drive a Chevrolet.
Call Bullet and ask what they think.
http://bulletcams.com/
As for the " why " part of your question , the generic answer is that valve train stability wins when mapping a lobe profile for the masses.
You are not going to the dyno with four or five cams to see which wrings every last ounce of power from your deal and most likely have a set budget for valve springs and broken parts.
What they sell is a cam that will provide an increase in power with a minimum of side effects..........probably with a lobe that has been tried and true to another manufacturer's engines.
Edited to add..........it is no more expensive to have a spec cam ground. I made some concessions to streetability with my deal and could not be any happier with the cam we agreed on.
Your input matters to them and they work WITH you to get it right.
It will require that you present flow numbers , real compression , end use and car weight , gear etc. etc. information.
But you will be much happier for it.
Will your car run on a " shelf " grind ?
Certainly.
And there might be an appropriate stocking cam for your deal , though the odds increase dramatically in this regard if you drive a Chevrolet.
Call Bullet and ask what they think.
http://bulletcams.com/
As for the " why " part of your question , the generic answer is that valve train stability wins when mapping a lobe profile for the masses.
You are not going to the dyno with four or five cams to see which wrings every last ounce of power from your deal and most likely have a set budget for valve springs and broken parts.
What they sell is a cam that will provide an increase in power with a minimum of side effects..........probably with a lobe that has been tried and true to another manufacturer's engines.
Edited to add..........it is no more expensive to have a spec cam ground. I made some concessions to streetability with my deal and could not be any happier with the cam we agreed on.
Your input matters to them and they work WITH you to get it right.
twayne24365
Well-Known Member
Thank, so a custom grind runs around 200?
tubtar
Well-Known Member
I had an un-ground billet for my 48 degree small block and Bullet ground it for I think 210.00.
This is from their current price list.
303000 B MOPAR CUSTOM GRIND FLAT TAPPET (SINGLE BOLT) 175.00
So I think under 2 bones should make it happen.
Dart Sport 360
Wanna Race?
I sent a request to Bullet and never heard a word from them....
j par
Well-hung Member
Call keath at oregon cam grinding. (In Washington) lol. With a core $75, $150 without. Funny thing is he really only wanted to talk duration, not lift !? He's old school and drags with the big boys. I believe he's ran most of the cam grinds he offers.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
"tubtar" hit on a lot of valid points.
The general increase in duration is to move the power band higher. As far as lift, head flow will determine how much you need before it becomes counter productive. For a "bracket" style engine and with the amount of off the shelf cams available these days, I have to believe that there's something out there available with a reasonably mild lobe design that will give you good/reliable power. Don't discount a change in rocker ratio if "big lift" is what your engine requires?
P.S. I should have asked, are you trying to cam this for a existing converter/gear, or for engine power and then converter/gearing it to the engine?
The general increase in duration is to move the power band higher. As far as lift, head flow will determine how much you need before it becomes counter productive. For a "bracket" style engine and with the amount of off the shelf cams available these days, I have to believe that there's something out there available with a reasonably mild lobe design that will give you good/reliable power. Don't discount a change in rocker ratio if "big lift" is what your engine requires?
P.S. I should have asked, are you trying to cam this for a existing converter/gear, or for engine power and then converter/gearing it to the engine?
tubtar
Well-Known Member
I cannot speak for them as to why you got no response , but I'd suggest calling them.
Tim is the guy who helped me out.
I also filled out the request form , but did it after our conversation.
I have heard good things about Oregon cam co. from others and I know more than a couple who swear by Isky for big block MoPars.
But the level of detail that went into picking my grind and their willingness to hear what I was saying sold me on Bullet.
There are options......and there are some I would avoid.
But it is personal preference ( or known history ) and how you feel after interacting with them that should ultimately steer you in any direction.
UOP
Well-Known Member
If there is an off the shelf cam you like, other than the lift, just run a higher ratio rocker (1.6 or 1.7). With a 1.5 ratio rocker there can only be so much lift ground into the cam or the lobe will become too aggressive.
j par
Well-hung Member
Agreed 100% ! Call a few and when one hears you, and gives you a warm fuzzy fealling (good advice)and takes the time to explain- - you'll have found your cam supply.
twayne24365
Well-Known Member
I may call and see what one of the companies would spec me, my build changed a little, std bore and stroke 383, 10.6:1 ported iron heads, it has a .528 solid in it but id like to step that up.
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