IRISH RT
Well-Known Member
See my other topic in Racers Forum , Got a fibreglass body that Im building as a drag car, But the body needs complete striping , So Can it be sanblasted and without damage to panels????? Thanx
Can fibreglass be sandblased
- Thread starter IRISH RT
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doug 371
Well-Known Member
i do it...mainly to rough up un sanded resin when putting more layers on...
Bad Shrimp
Well-Known Member
Yes you can sandblast fiberglass and carbon fiber. Experiment on some scrap if you have n e available. First couple of passes you'll see the resin layer has been roughed up/scuffed, keep going and you'll see the difference once the outer resin layer has been removed, keep going and you'll see once the first layer of fiber started to get blasted away.
Like everything else the grit size, volume/output of blaster, and distance from part will change things.
JMHO
I think I could prep a fiberglass/carbon fiber panel with sandblaster and remove less parent/base material and leave a better finish than if I were to hand sand or use an orbital.
Like everything else the grit size, volume/output of blaster, and distance from part will change things.
JMHO
I think I could prep a fiberglass/carbon fiber panel with sandblaster and remove less parent/base material and leave a better finish than if I were to hand sand or use an orbital.
IRISH RT
Well-Known Member
I have used my Sandblaster on Steel numerous times but not on doors etc So Im confident on using it just was unsure about fibreglass, What sort of grade grit are there ???? Thanx
340arrow
Well-Known Member
Have you thought about Soda blasting it?
Rice Nuker
Let the Coal Roll!
Our hardware store carries 30 grit washed / sized beach sand that is supposed to be pretty pure. There are just lots of media varieties. I used the washed sand constantly on steel and plastics. Amazingly after blasting I have 0 paint issues (fish eye), the surface is so clean. I have heard others spray paint or primer directly over blasted metal. I run over the surface these days with pure alcohol in a squirt bottle prior to painting to hopefully dilute and remove any contaminant residue. Let that dry or wipe off of course.
Plastics I am quite careful, use less air pressure and stay about 1 - 2 feet away to create an even coverage and profile the surface w/o pitting and scaring.
No advice on fiberglass but reckon it is similar to plastics. Bad thing about plastics is there is no stopping point, the more time you spend in one place the deeper your blast goes. Constantly moving and light blasting will profile well but the surface will not be perfectly uniform and the longer you blast the less uniform the surface will be.
I agree, test and experiment first rather than on your part.
Plastics I am quite careful, use less air pressure and stay about 1 - 2 feet away to create an even coverage and profile the surface w/o pitting and scaring.
No advice on fiberglass but reckon it is similar to plastics. Bad thing about plastics is there is no stopping point, the more time you spend in one place the deeper your blast goes. Constantly moving and light blasting will profile well but the surface will not be perfectly uniform and the longer you blast the less uniform the surface will be.
I agree, test and experiment first rather than on your part.
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