Can I add just a clutch pedal to auto pedals?

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cfordyce05

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I'm converting my 1970 Dart Swinger from auto to manual. I will be rigging up a hydraulic clutch setup to use with the CD009 6 speed from a Nissan 350Z. Is it possible to just add the clutch pedal to my current assembly, or do you have to swap in the entire manual pedal assembly?

Does anyone have pictures of installing an aftermarket pedal assembly, like a Wilwood, into an A body? With how expensive the stock pedal assemblies are, I'm wondering if it would be worth putting the money towards aftermarket. I'm not worried about maintaining originality (Obviously! I'm installing a Nissan transmission).
 
There's a folded sheet channel that the b brake pedal hangs from (it has the four studs for the mc iirc). On manual trans cars, there's a little angle iron brace welded across the legs of the channel.

If You put the clutch pedal in the brake pedal pivot pin and the folded bracket doesn't have that brace, the assembly will deflect and bind up.
 
I've always wanted a set of these...

72-603.jpg
 
The power brake pedal might be a bit wide...........
 
I'm trying to think of a smart-alec comment in regards to finding enough room on the firewall side, with the headers,and what-not all, trying to occupy the same space.
But it escapes me

What are you putting in front of that 6 speed? and what are the ratios in it?
 
Can I add a brace to the auto pedals in the same location? It sounds like a clutch pedal could be installed on the same pivot. Is that correct? I've been toying with the idea of creating a pedal conversion kit, if it's something that could fit with new spacers and pivot pin, or something to that effect.

I used to own a 1970 Beetle that I put a 2.0L Subaru engine into. I didn't mind the pedals on the floor, but it seems like they would be out of place in the Dart. Although, it would probably be easier to mount them than the swinging versions.

I'm bolting it to my turbo charged, EFI slant six. Here are the ratios: 3.784, 2.324, 1.624, 1.271, 1, .794. I'm planning to run a rear end ratio in the high 2's to low 3's in a Ford Explorer 8.8. The high gears will be to help load up the turbo as well as pair with the lower first gear on the transmission.

I am currently working on an adapter kit. I'm pretty green in the actual fabrication department (sheet metal cutting, grinding, etc.), but I run a CNC machine shop and can design and make most anything. You can see my progress on slantsix.org: Slant Six Forum, :: View topic - 350Z CD009 Six Speed Swap
I have several guys interested in purchasing kits once I have mine sorted out. I'm about to machine the final adapter plate prototype and a custom flywheel to get everything bolted together.

If there is any interest in being able to bolt this transmission to the Mopar V-8's, I would be most of the way there right now. All I would need is the engine bolt pattern.
 
I'm bolting it to my turbo charged, EFI slant six. Here are the ratios: 3.784, 2.324, 1.624, 1.271, 1, .794. I'm planning to run a rear end ratio in the high 2's to low 3's in a Ford Explorer 8.8. The high gears will be to help load up the turbo as well as pair with the lower first gear on the transmission.
Click to expand...

The splits in that tranny are 61-70-78-79 very nice!
The splits in my combo are 62-73-72-78, very nice.
If that tranny can take 450 to 500 ftlbs, it would be awesome.
Even if it could take a hot Hi-compression teener, it could be awesome.

The road ratios with a 2.94 rear, are 11.12-6.83-4.77-3.74-2.33
Mine which I spent a,never mind, are 10.97-6.78-4.93-3.55-2.77; with 3.55s
I really love my ratios, and,I am loving those ratios,too.
 
It's supposed to hold 1000hp. They are cheap in the junk yards, anywhere from $300-900. You can actually buy a brand new one from Nissan for somewhere around $1600.
 
cfordyce05 said:
It's supposed to hold 1000hp. They are cheap in the junk yards, anywhere from $300-900. You can actually buy a brand new one from Nissan for somewhere around $1600.
Click to expand...
Are you serious?!
Sign me up.
Wait. I can't afford to be the guinney-pig on this experiment, on my semi-retired income. But if somebody else can, lemme know. Ima gonna start saving today. I got or would like to be at;450 hp. And I will even put Caltracks on or something, for that one. Hyup
waitaminute.
I just thought of something.
I like cruising at 65=2200. This is a fd of 2.76.
Taking 2.76/.794=3.48 so that translates 3.55s (which I already have) .
Now if I was to to able to hit 65 at the top of third gear say, That would give me 3 gears to the charge! Three!. Ok so what would the rpm be?
(65x1056x3.55x1.624)/85 = 4655. Hmmm a little low, perhaps. But if I swapped out my 276/286/110 cam which peaks around 5200, for a cam 3 sizes smaller on the advertised, But stayed closer to the .050 number of 230* and tightened up the LSA to maybe 100 to 106, to match those splits; I can maybe see that working. Ima thinking FTSolid. Maybe 262 advertised. Hyup, that would be 2 sizes smaller on the advertised. I bet I could make 400hp on that. And I bet I could put nearly the same average power down from Zero to 60mph. And I bet I could do that, or make it do that, in less time time than the current combo. And then I could make better Mpgs at 65 with the same 2200 cruise rpm. Hmmmmmm,hyup I can see that.
Where were you when I bought the GVOD?
Common, somebody step up! Plz!
 
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