can I use this coil as is?

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PanGasket

PanGasket

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My buddy offered me a MSD Blaster 2 coil, but its an 8202, not the 8203 that Summit reccomends for my truck. But it seems the only difference is that the 8203 is packaged with a resistor. I am running a Mopar Orange box and a 4 prong resistor.

Can I just plug and play the 8202 or am I gonna have to go and buy a .8 ohm or is that not even an option?
 
I believe the coil you were given is supposed to run with a full 12v. I've always just by passed the resistor when using those coils.
 
You can use it without resistor. Same thing is writed on user manual of that coil. I have same coil and i use it without resistor too. I tried it with reistor and i couldnt tell was there eny difference. The resistor suplied with coil is for points ignition system.
 
Dusterguy said:
. Same thing is writed on user manual of that coil.
Click to expand...

Uh. no it is not

The user manual says you can omit the resistor when using with MSD IGNITION, which is capacitive discharge and works completely different from your Mopar ECU

Your Mopar ECU is "more like" points ignition than anything else, IE the Mopar ECU simply switches the coil in place of the points. Proper coil resistance/ ballast is important with these systems

MSD shows the primary resistance of that thing is only .7 ohms, about half that of a factory Mopar coil

Destructions for the 8282 coil

http://www.msdignition.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=15032386207
 
can I just wire in a grill .8 ohm resistor in line with the positive wire to the coil and call it good? that's like 5¢ from my local electronic supply
 
67Dart273 said:
Uh. no it is not

The user manual says you can omit the resistor when using with MSD IGNITION, which is capacitive discharge and works completely different from your Mopar ECU

Your Mopar ECU is "more like" points ignition than anything else, IE the Mopar ECU simply switches the coil in place of the points. Proper coil resistance/ ballast is important with these systems

MSD shows the primary resistance of that thing is only .7 ohms, about half that of a factory Mopar coil

Destructions for the 8282 coil

http://www.msdignition.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=15032386207
Click to expand...

As you can read resistor is for points system. You dont need it with 4 pin Mopar ecu. Ecu can easily deal with high current what 0.7 ohm coil gives. it work without resistor for me and it work for without resistor for everyone.
 
Dusterguy said:
As you can read resistor is for points system. You dont need it with 4 pin Mopar ecu. Ecu can easily deal with high current what 0.7 ohm coil gives. it work without resistor for me and it work for without resistor for everyone.
Click to expand...

You, .............uh,,,,,,,,,,,,know this for a fact or are you just guessing? Seems to me that we alternate on here about people guessing about coils and resistors, on the other hand lots of people bitchin' about ECU's which are melting the potting material out the back of the case.

All I'm sayin is you might want to consider.......................

There's a big big difference between a 1/4 mile drag car, and a street car that might actually be run for 8 or 10 hours at a time in the hottest temperatures you can imagine.
 
To hell with the Mopar Goobox! Just run an HEI module and do away with the resistor, the box, and all that stupid wiring that goes with it! The HEI setup uses a coil with a primary resistance of 0.5 to 1 ohm, so just hook it up and forget it.
 
don't have money for that right now. my buddy wants 20 for the coil. I already have way too much in my setup at the time and still have more money to spend
 
67Dart273 said:
You, .............uh,,,,,,,,,,,,know this for a fact or are you just guessing? Seems to me that we alternate on here about people guessing about coils and resistors, on the other hand lots of people bitchin' about ECU's which are melting the potting material out the back of the case.

All I'm sayin is you might want to consider.......................

There's a big big difference between a 1/4 mile drag car, and a street car that might actually be run for 8 or 10 hours at a time in the hottest temperatures you can imagine.
Click to expand...

I may sound untrusty beause im from finland and low post count, but i am educated electrician so i know littlebit of this subject. I have also oppened 3 of these 4 pin boxes and i know the exactly transistor type what is inside them i have googled them and i know they are cabalble of running high current. (i cant remember exact transistor type enimore) I have runned 3000km without resistor with msd blaster 2 coil. and im 99% sure ecu will not fail. coil is what could take damage running without resistor, but msd blaster 2 seems to take it. runnin without resistor should make more powerfull spark, and it will if u have bigger spark blug cap. Thats the reason why i use it without resistor. Will it make more hp without resistor that whit it? i dont know.
 
OK, fair enough. But I've seen plenty of these boxes fail, evidently due to heat damage, so am reluctant to recommend intentionally running a lot of just through them.

But as Craig said above, I finally went to an HEI module. No resistor at all, factory coil for now.
 
I will be going HEI one day, But for now, I am pretty happy with my electronic ignition. How do you convert to HEI?
 
DarTT said:
I will be going HEI one day, But for now, I am pretty happy with my electronic ignition. How do you convert to HEI?
Click to expand...

There are a few different ways to convert to HEI.
My kits are BY FAR the easiest way to do it though.
http://www.classichei.com

The price for abody members is still 99.95

I was happy with my factory electronic also, till I ran the HEI.
Better starting, smoother idle, more power, and better MPG to boot.

Best of all, no more ballast resistor and no more intake mounted coil or box on the fender.
Most peole who have them say that they are one of the best improvements they have made to thier car.

Basically you are changing the box on the fender for a small unit that controls the spark, and a somewhat higher powered coil that ignites the fuel more efficiently.
 
DarTT said:
I will be going HEI one day, But for now, I am pretty happy with my electronic ignition. How do you convert to HEI?
Click to expand...

There are several ways. The setup Trailbeast comes up with allows future electronic advance control. There is lots of discussion on using improved coils ("E core coils)

But I took the absolute cheapest way out, with the exception that I bought what I "hope" is the best quality module available. I use the older, "original" style HEI module out of a "large cap" GM V8. Most guys mount them on a heat sink. I simply mounted mine to the firewall. Many guys use special coils. I simply used my factory Mopar coil.

Many say that with the coil I have this is not "true HEI" and they are right --to a point-- but this system produces a MUCH hotter spark than the Mopar ECU system, if for no other reason that there is no ballast. An added benefit of an HEI module is, that if for some reason you leave the key on, even for testing, etc, the COIL DOES NOT draw current. This is not true of points or the original Mopar ECU, or several other OEM systems.

I also threw together a module and coil "in a box" which has allowed me to quickly test fire 3 used engines and also becomes a "quick" emergency replacement spare

This thread:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=195543

zu5qn8.jpg


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All I did to mount mine. One screw hole was already there, that is where "they" had mounted the conversion Mopar system:
 

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