Can not kill LA......Running on

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MR4V

MR4V

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This is sending me mad. When hot & driven for some miles I go to shut it down & it runs on wheeze then blows smoke out the air cleaner.

The 318 has done 70,000 miles for new since 73, has no blow by, no oil usage, has no knocks & sounds good.
Its not hard to start hot or cold, have replaced the spark plugs with colder ones, set timing at 7%, has new leads, cap & rotor.
Have also rebuilt the carter carb.

It is fitted with Dodge electronic ignition.

What else can I try as its embarrassing & pepole keep asking if I need a firer extinguish.
 
sounds like it is "dieseling" which is normally caused by the timing being too retarded... try bumping the timing up to 12 BTC and see if that fixes it.
 
69B-Cuda said:
sounds like it is "dieseling" which is normally caused by the timing being too retarded... try bumping the timing up to 12 BTC and see if that fixes it.
Click to expand...

Advacing or retarding has made no difference. Could the counter weights be getting jammed?
 
When it starts running on put the accelerator pedal to the floor. Should kill it. Had a 318 scamp that would run on and on and on and on. Flooring it ussually killed it right away.

I started running better gas and that for the most part eliminated the problem.
 
MR4V said:
Yeap I was thinking carbon build up. Is there anything I can do to fix that with out taking the heads off?
Click to expand...
lets not go that far yet. Have a good temp gauge? preferably mechanical. Overheating engine and cheap gas/or fuel with a lot of ethenol, may diesel on like that. cooler plugs and higher octane may help. or your running real lean. been messin with the carb? Just grab your rotor, turn it should snap back easy, if you concerned with centrifugal dizzy weights.
 
My 273 was dieseling and it was caused by the ethanol in gas from a very busy & local "Shell" gas station. I usually drive 8 miles farther to a "Gulf" station to fill her up and never had any issues. But when I'm on fumes I usually get a few gallons down the road and I always have a problem!

ZooKypr
 
Sorry its taken some time to get back to you all, I have tried most of the above, so I pulled the dissy apart while it was still in place & noticed that a small roll pin was jammed in there, have no idea were it came from.
I have removed it & advanced the timing to 10 BTC, taken it for a run & it looks like the problem is solved.

Thanks all for you advice & help.
 
Glad to hear you got it fixed....but for future reference I have seen this be the cause of the problem MANY times before.......People will hard wire there electric fans into there electrical system and when the engine heats up and the fan comes on.....and you shut the car off.....the fan almost acts like an alternator and back feeds current with each revolution of the electric fan and keeps power going to the distributer just enough to keep it "dieseling"

Just a word to the wise to anyone who may run into a problem like that in the future!
 
ZooKypr said:
My 273 was dieseling and it was caused by the ethanol in gas from a very busy & local "Shell" gas station. I usually drive 8 miles farther to a "Gulf" station to fill her up and never had any issues. But when I'm on fumes I usually get a few gallons down the road and I always have a problem!

ZooKypr
Click to expand...

Hi, just FYI - I run straight E85 & never have trouble w/ dieseling. However, it is very important to get the timing properly adjusted to account for the type of fuel you're running (whatever the composition). Problems w/ E85 are usually: Old, rubber fuel lines (these should be fuel-injection spec), Timing, Carb jetting, dirt related & due to letting the car sit for a few months at a time. However, E10 (10% eth + gas) is fine for normal use.

I use E85 because I get better performance, although the mpg is about 10% lower...but then, the price is about 10% lower. So it's actually getting a 20% discount, because I'm getting 105octane, but not paying the Premium price.

I will bet that the station where you have trouble w/ your gas has dirty tanks or water in them. Usually, all fuel now is mandated to have approx 10% ethanol. So, you're probably getting the same composition, but one station's better than the other at keeping their fuel quality.

Just my 2cents, though.
 
MR4V said:
Sorry its taken some time to get back to you all, I have tried most of the above, so I pulled the dissy apart while it was still in place & noticed that a small roll pin was jammed in there, have no idea were it came from.
I have removed it & advanced the timing to 10 BTC, taken it for a run & it looks like the problem is solved.

Thanks all for you advice & help.
Click to expand...
Mistake, pull dist., and protect it in a vise, on a bench. Hope you saved the roll pin? That indexes the reluctor to the shaft.

plugs+dist+jack 002 (Small).jpg
 
Hmmm,

So, why would the ignition timing have any effect on the engine after the ignition is shut off? There ain't any electricity running thru the ignition after the key is shut off. So adjusting the timing wouldn't do jack... Would it? I don't think so. I vote carbon depositization as well. The carbon remains burning in the combustion area after the ignition key is shut off. To cure carbon depositization: pump it full of 90+ octane, drive the car with the breather off and the hood off, in a rain storm at w.o.t. for 10 to 20 miles. Then replace the spark plugs. Water exploding (turning to steam instantly) in the combustion chamber adds additional simulated compression and creates a little more intense combustion environment.. If the breather and hood cannot be taken off prior to a rain storm, just drive the car at w.o.t. for a number of sessions on long straight aways at 4 am, preferably with a free flowing exhaust system. I have seen many chunks of carbon fly out tail pipes and other exhaust accessories, on cars that are carboned up after we purchased them from old ladies or old fellers and had to blow the cobs out of them. Looked like the cars had roman candles up their tail pipe(s)... :)
It is preferable to do this type of de-carbonization on a rainy day because carbon chunks can light the side of the road on fire.
 
In a rain storm WOT!!! for 10-20 miles? thats great advise! :shock: Better yet, take the hood off, on a nice day, with one of your buddies strapped to the hood hinge,"for safty", with a garden sprayer full of water. :axe:
 
take the hood/air cleaner off. crazy glue a friends feet to the valve covers, after he has had 8 beers or so, make sure he has not borken the seal (peed) yet. 1 more beer in each hand and take him for a drive. when he finally has to go, aim for the carb......or you could just take a bottle of water with your thumb over the mouth of it and trickle the water into the carb, very very very slowly. but not in your driveway, the goop that will come out of the tailpipe will look like what doktor x is coughing up....http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=95086
 
Good point here as well :) wrong temp plugs, overheating, shotty gas, I agree with you here, check the basics prior to the w.o.t. in a rain storm with the hood off..


mopar head said:
lets not go that far yet. Have a good temp gauge? preferably mechanical. Overheating engine and cheap gas/or fuel with a lot of ethenol, may diesel on like that. cooler plugs and higher octane may help. or your running real lean. been messin with the carb? Just grab your rotor, turn it should snap back easy, if you concerned with centrifugal dizzy weights.
Click to expand...
 
green1 said:
Just rev it, and pour water down the carb.
Click to expand...

That is essentially what I was talking about as well..
I read in some old book on tuning an engine years ago, that having someone rev the engine (like hold it a 2000 rpm or 2500 rpm) while carefully pouring a thin stream of water down the carb venturis, would break up the carbon in the combustion chamber.. The key is to regulate the thin stream of water listening to the engine so as not to feed too much water that the engine stalls. I have used this method before as well.. Especially on a stock or low compression engine there will be plenty of room in the combustion chamber for a little fluid with out hydro-lock occurring..
 
Small squirt or mister bottles work well and are easier to control than a water hose...just make sure you have the exhaust pipes pointed away from the garge door and nothing is parked behind the car, or you'll be washing it too! LOL!
 
Had this problem one time w/ a chevy motor... Turned out it needed some resistance in the lead going to the distributor. Mine wasnt deiselin any I had replaced the alt and it must have been putting out more juice. That was 13 years ago and a ton of beeersss but I'm pretty sure thats what was happening. Cheap fix was to add a section of wire and make a coil out of it. I was 16 at the time and it blew my mind when my ol man tried it and it worked :D
 
mopar head said:
Mistake, pull dist., and protect it in a vise, on a bench. Hope you saved the roll pin? That indexes the reluctor to the shaft.
Click to expand...

Thats the roll pin....Looks like its been replaced & the old one was dropped in to float around in side.
 
So you all know the problem is fixed & this is what is new before I found this roll pin.

New plugs(colder), leads, rotor, cap, carby rebuild, twin exhaust, radiator, radiator cap top & bottom hoses.
Also tried diffferent range of octane fuels, checked the temp with new gauge took the car for a hard run bumped the idle up to 3000 rpm, ste the timing at 10 deg BTDC & slowly poured water down the carb, not alot of stuff came out the exhaust.

Even doing the above did the problem did not go away until the pin was removed.
Thanks for your advice.
 
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