Can not stop oil from leaking.

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Galactic_eyes

Galactic_eyes

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I have a pesky oil leak that I can not get to stop. The leak is right along where the intake and block meet. This is my second time trying to get this darn leak to stop. The last three days of driving were fine until today. I looked under the hood and there I could see where oil had been running down the front of the engine.
I used the Felpro #1213 intake gaskets. I was very generous with the gasket sealer(black) making sure I covered all four corners thoroughly. I ran 1/4" bead (actually more than that)at both ends. I can not stand having oil leaking all over the place.
Any of you have any ideas of what I can do? Thanks.
 
If these are all stock castings they are supposed to fit together.
Checked the pcv system ? Excessive crank case pressure will push out new gaskets. Good luck
 
Thanks for your reply. It's a AirGap intake. I didn't use the front and rear cork gasket. Edelbrock syas not to use them. Kinda wished I did now. I checked the PCV valve after the first time it appearded to be working fine.
 
I never use the cork, just a thick bead of sealer. On the front passenger's side the block surface sweeps back toward the rear of the car. If the bead of sealer you laid down did not sweep back on the front passenger's side it will leak. Best approach is to glue the side gaskets to the head and lay the manifold down and eye up how thick that bead should be. Then cut the applicator accordingly. I also clean the surfaces with Brake Parts Cleaner and fresh paper towels to make sure no oil residue is present.
 
Yea no gaskets front and rear....Have you ever used the stuff from permatex, called THE RIGHT STUFF....all the parts houses carry it...it is the best...cost 15.00 a tube sets up in 15 min's....Make sure you are ready to use it....Also...Are you using a torque sequence and proper torque specs right?????Also liquid thread sealer on all bolts for the intake...oil/coolant will seep up bolts....also front and rear on the block I have seen little alignment tabs /roll pins, make sure your intake has holes for these or it will not torque down properly
 
I know I had enough sealer cause it oozed out when I put the intake on. I did make sure the surface was clean and free from oil. This is the first time I've ever had this problem. The only difference this time is that I did not use the cork gaskets. I should have just used them. Well, looks like I'll be pulling this for a third time. While I'm at it I'll clean and repaint the motor and all brackets.
One other thing, I have kinda suspected oil leaking from the head gasket on the front side of the motor. Anyone ever seen this?
 
chasduster said:
Yea no gaskets front and rear....Have you ever used the stuff from permatex, called THE RIGHT STUFF....all the parts houses carry it...it is the best...cost 15.00 a tube sets up in 15 min's....Make sure you are ready to use it....Also...Are you using a torque sequence and proper torque specs right?????Also liquid thread sealer on all bolts for the intake...oil/coolant will seep up bolts....also front and rear on the block I have seen little alignment tabs /roll pins, make sure your intake has holes for these or it will not torque down properly
Click to expand...
Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have heard of that. Looking on other threads someone was talking about it and swear by it. I may give that a try. Yep, I followed all torque sequence and proper torque specs. My intake is a AirGap so the tabs have been removed from the block. Like above, I've done intakes on all of my T/A's(455 SD to 301's) and have never had a problem like this.
To add it's only the front of the motor that is leaking, not the rear.
 
Galactic_eyes said:
I know I had enough sealer cause it oozed out when I put the intake on. I did make sure the surface was clean and free from oil. This is the first time I've ever had this problem. The only difference this time is that I did not use the cork gaskets. I should have just used them. Well, looks like I'll be pulling this for a third time. While I'm at it I'll clean and repaint the motor and all brackets.
One other thing, I have kinda suspected oil leaking from the head gasket on the front side of the motor. Anyone ever seen this?
Click to expand...

I'll be doing mine for the third time as well when I get it back from the paint shop. I had the same oil leak you have the first time. No oil leak the second time but I have a coolant leak now! I hope for both of us the third time is a charm.

Good luck
 
Use the ultra-grey from permatex. it is a more rigid high torque sealer than the ultra black. i have been using this stuff for years and have yet to see one leak.
 
I installed same Intake, pretty big gap to fill is`nt it! But I lucked out I guess, still holding after a year or so. as far as head leak,, maybe, but if you have power steering it could be blowing back from that.. damn power steering pumps:angry7:.. good luck:-D
 
Yea, that damn thing is leaking also from the reservoir seal or what ever it's called.. Same place as your I believe.
 
pcv. pcv. pcv. you shouldnt have anything but vapor up there. is your lifter gallery draining correctly? if you get the top to quit leaking the next thing will be the rear main seal.how old is the motor? too much blow by is usually a culprit too.
 
I checked the PCV and it appears to be working correctly but I'll change it anyway. I also have a valve cover breather on the valve cover as-well. The motor was built 2004 and only has a little over 20,000 miles on it. Thanks to all that have replied.
 
I had the same problem, 340-air gap manifold. I cleaned the area with starting fluid and ran a bead of permatex Hi Heat sensor silicone and the leak stopped.
 
I used the cork end seals on my Air-gap and haven't had any problems. I was planning on eliminating them until I set the intake down and saw the gap was nearly 1/4" so I figured I'd better use the end gaskets. Something else I do is not torque down the intake fully until after the silicone is dry. I install everything just snug. Then after 24 hrs. go back and torque it down. Never had a problem with one leaking except a dang 454 I did for a buddy. It split the end gasket.:angry7:

Oh yeah. I have used Ultra copper silicone for yrs. now and always works great.

One last thing. You probably know this since you said you think your pcv system is ok but you do have the breather on the opposite valve cover from the pcv valve, right? Just checking.
 
fishy68 said:
I used the cork end seals on my Air-gap and haven't had any problems. I was planning on eliminating them until I set the intake down and saw the gap was nearly 1/4" so I figured I'd better use the end gaskets. Something else I do is not torque down the intake fully until after the silicone is dry. I install everything just snug. Then after 24 hrs. go back and torque it down. Never had a problem with one leaking except a dang 454 I did for a buddy. It split the end gasket.:angry7:

Oh yeah. I have used Ultra copper silicone for yrs. now and always works great.

One last thing. You probably know this since you said you think your pcv system is ok but you do have the breather on the opposite valve cover from the pcv valve, right? Just checking.
Click to expand...
Yes, I stated that on my above post. I like your way and will try that. I used the ultra Black silicon which I think may be the problem. I'll use the High Temp this next time. Thank you all for your input.
With the cork gasket I was told not to use them on the airgap that the gaskets would push out. I have always used them on other engines with no problems.
 
I also Have an oil leak at the front and rear of my Air gap intake... I DON"T HAVE A PCV AT ALL JUST BREATHERS... DO I HAVE A PROBLEM??? I also used the cork gaskets front and rear...
 
Yeah I noticed they said not to use the cork gaskets but I did anyway and didn't have any problem with them pushing out.

Wyoduster. Yes you have to have a pcv valve to relieve crankcase pressure. You'll most likely have leaks without it.
 
Well, it sounds like either the TQ or possibly the flex-plate may be cracked. IDK 100%. It is making a light knocking sound that is coming from the TQ. I have the car in the air and crawled under to listen. My car has a GM 700 R4 trans with a Wilcap adaptor plate and flex-plate. I moved from the oil pan to the TQ and its louder at the TQ. It just started this two days ago.
 
not an option for me but i guess a700r4 is ok.if you puth the trans in and didnt use the factory dowel pins, how did you line up the input shaft on the trans? if it isnt within .001 or .002 it puts the input shaft in a bind and WILL break the flex plate, tear up the front pump bushing, and eventually wipe out the rear main, and the torque converter snout that runs the front pump in the trans. none of this is good. post more on this so we can help!
 
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