Can someone give me some guidance how to fix this?

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myasylum

myasylum

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How hard would it be to do some of this myself? Can someone give me some ideas how this could be fixed, or at least look better?
Check out the door... THANKS!!

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Most of those areas will be hard to get at the back side of. Get yourself some body work hammers and dollies along with a slide hammer dent puller, Eastwood has these. I would try to get as much of the dent out before useing plastic/bondo. Just curios why you installed the stripe over the rear dent.
 
thats ashame really a good looking car other wise, I'd replace the door, probley be just as cheap, Then work on the other areas with fiberglass they are some hard areas to fix thou
 
I put the stripe over the dent because I can't afford body work. Might as well make it look the best it can be. Can't really notice it at night. I was hoping I could simply pound that one out with a smaller rubber mallet or something?
 
myasylum said:
I put the stripe over the dent because I can't afford body work. Might as well make it look the best it can be. Can't really notice it at night. I was hoping I could simply pound that one out with a smaller rubber mallet or something?
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Rubber mallet probably won't produce the result you're looking for. Go with the correct stuff for hammering out body panels. The Eastwood recommendation posted earlier is good. I tried doing all kinds of body work with very limited body tools and it just doesn't look right. It is much harder and takes more time and effort to improvise than to get the right tools.

On the areas that I had more leveling than others, I used kitty hair. If you get bondo/putty too thick, it will just crack or chip.

Have patience & good luck!
 
What kind of hammer do I use for getting out that dent? Can someone please guide me??
Thanks!
 
myasylum said:
I put the stripe over the dent because I can't afford body work. Might as well make it look the best it can be. Can't really notice it at night. I was hoping I could simply pound that one out with a smaller rubber mallet or something?
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I should have added that what you have done looks very good, big time improvement. The rear quarter dent you sould be able to get to from the inside, body hammers and dollies are recommended a rubber mallet might do more damage. Start tapping inside the trunk and work in toward the center of the dent with the dolly on the outside of the panel. Put some masking tape on the outside of the panel to protect the paint some. Do a little at a time but dont work it too much or you will stretch the metal. Hope this helps and ask more ??? as needed.
 
Eastwood has a kit for about $40. You can't beat it, 3 body hammer's and 4 dollies. I've been using them everyday since I got them (my old set was all beat up and had some deep dimples in them. Not very good for getting a clean look). Eastwood has a lot of stuff and at a good price. I'm with the other guys, hammer and dolly and just take it slow. The smoother you get it, the less filler and sanding you have to do later. The spots that are hard to get behind, you just have to be creative. Find a method you're most comfortable using.
 
Not trying to be a smart *** but just drive it until you can afford to get it fixed properly. That's what I would do. I'm not a A1 body man and if you are like me you want your car to be dent free. In the mean time look around for a door and you just might run across a front fender also. The front fender will more than likely have to come off to repair it anyways. The back panel and quarter can be fixed. Now unless you're going to just temporary own the car and not sink a bunch of money in it in the long run then I would definitely would drive the crap out of it.
 
Mullinax95, you right and thanks. I do understand your point, but for me finding another rust free door, the same color as my car might be a bit difficult. Don't get me wrong, I'll look and see what I can find along the way as I drive the crap out of it. :)

I did find that hammer/dolly set for $39.95, I kind of want to learn. (As long as I don't make it worse??)

Can someone explain to me how to use a dolly?
 
You place it on the outside of the dented area and tapp from the inside on the spot where you´ve placed the dolly (where the dent is).
Be carefull when tapping the metal, start slow and you will get the feeling for it.
As homecloned said don´t overdo it, it will stretch the metal.
You´ll actually find it a kind of fun job when you see that you´re doing some progress.
 
I'm not a bodyman but did some reading recently and what I read has the dolly behind the dent and work with your hammer from the outside to avoid stretching the metal. I'll have to find the book I read, but I think I got it from Eastwood, it was on Metal Working.
 
I work at an auto body shop. Easiest thing to do is new sheet metal, like for the new door get a new one or a skin, and same thing for the trunk. Also for the small dents and dings just take your time. All's you need is a bar sander, hammer, and a bunch of time.:read2:
 
Which dolly would I use for that back rear quarter panel? There is three in the kit. (can you tell that's the dent I care about the most?)
It sure is going to be hard tapping a hammer way back by the body line isn't it?

What tool do you use to get small dings out of a door? can someone send me a link or a pic of what it looks like??

Thanks! You guys are GREAT!!
 
I seriously think.... Given your lack of experience.... You will just make things look worse.

Old world craftsmen with years of experience may be able to hammer out dents like that... Regular guys like you and me.... We will end up with a dent that looks like it was beat with a hammer.


What I would do......

Find someone that has experience in this kind of thing that will do it for you and let you watch.

or

Do nothing and save your money so you can have a pro fix it.

or

Get a dented fender from a junk yard and practice before you start beating on your car.
 
I am all for teaching yourself how to do it!!:cheers:

There are some great videos on youtube that teach you how to do some of this. Probably some really great articles too. Can you take a class at your local college?

Once you do some of those things, get an old fender or something beat the piss out of it and then fix it. Put different kinds of dents in it too. Maybe a crease or two. When you are satisfied with you results, and you are confident, go for it.

When I welded new panels on my Duster I practiced on a old hood first. I cut a bunch of slits in it with a grinder, then I fixed them until I was satisfied I wouldn't screw up my new quarters.8)
 
Those are going to be tough spots to fix. You cant get behind the door to fix it, Th edriverside fender will be tough because its on the end, Theat bend in the sheet meatl really stiffens it up, The tail panel and and quarter will be easiest but thats a good size repair on every panel so know your talking repaint the entire car. Leave them alone for now. My 2 cents.
 
I agree, I would highly recommend finding a piece of scrap metal, not even an extra panel, just something. Take a ball pin hammer and beat the hell out of it. Practice on straightening out those marks before you even attempt to put a hammer and dolly to your ride. Body work is really not that difficult, does it take time, patience, a keen eye and practice.....yes. But even the best body man in the world, started out just like you are right now. I enjoy metal work and fabrication, I've been doing it for almost 10 years now. There's nothing more rewarding that having a panel all beat up, that someone would rather replace than fix, and making it like new. Practice, practice, practice! before you touch your car. Learn how each dolly and hammer setup works together for each type of dent/wrinkle. That's why they give you so many and not just one hammer and one dolly. Each person has their favorite set to work with. After some practice, you'll find the one that best suites you. Just don't be in a hurry to get it done, take your time.
 
yea, you know? maybe wrongly, I kind of trust myself. I've been doing pretty well so far. if I see i'm screwing up, i'll just quit.
what is that tool you use for small door dings though?
thanks.
 
there are a couple different tools you could use. so many kinds of pullers out there, you have your choice. Are you talking about the welded stud type? That's usually the preferred method vs. the crappy suction/plunger type. Doors can be kind of tricky since you only have access to the front of them unless you pull the skin off. If it was just one dent it wouldn't be difficult, but the damage you have is more of a wrinkle type. Honestly, if you have the money, I would think about purchasing a new door skin.
 
Just so you know.... You are not going to get the dents out and save the paint... This is one of the reasons it very well may look worse if you just try and hammer it out.
 
In addition to a body hammer set, get a couple of spoons. They aren't cheap but will give you a lot of options you won't have with just a bunch of hammers and dollies. The door is easy. Take off the interior panel roll up the window (or better yet take it out so you can lean over the top of the door) and use the spoon to push against the low part of the dents from the inside while tapping LIGHTLY on the areas that loos like a line on the outside. Move along the line slowly. Stop often and look at your work. Biggest thing is not to get in a hurry or frustrated and start wailing the daylights out of the metal. It will move believe me, just a little at a time.

Tail panel under the lock will be a bit of a problem. Looks like someone let something slide around in the trunk. Here is a trick. Get an electric heat gun like you would use to strip paint and then go to the local office suply store and get some of the canned air they use to blow dust out of PCs. Paint sill be ruined but this will work. Put the spray nozzle in the can of compressed air. Use the heat gun to heat the high spot of the dent. Don't be afraid to get it hot. Paint will blister but thats ok. Once its hot, take the can of air and TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN and spray onto the dent. Spray quite a bit, unitl its cool enough to touch. This will shrink the metal and take some of the dent out. You may have to do this several times.

The left rear corner can be worked from inside with a spoon or a dolly. Don't think you will be able to get a hammer into the rear part. Take the light out to give yourself room.

The leading edge of the left front fender will be the hardest. Take off the trim, remove the headlight, AND the bucket. Since this area is pushed in but also pushed up on the top you are going to have to apply force to 2 places to get the right contour. Get a piece of 1" square tubing about a foot long. Once all the light stuff is out of the way you will notice that the front area of the fender is actually 2 pieces of metal tacked together. Get 3 3 or 4 inch C-clamps. Clamp the square tubing across the front of the fender with a clamp at each end as far from the dent as possible. It will be tight but it can be done. Put the last clamp on the dent and pull it SNUG. Don't over tighten. All you want is tension against the area to be moved. Now take a flat faced body hammer and lightly tap the highest spot of the dent on the top of the fender. As the top moves down, the tension on the center clamp will move the front edge forward. As the metal moves the clamp will loosen and fall off. Thats good, it means the front edge is moving out. Put the clamp back on and pull it snug again and repeat the moving of the metal on the top of the fender. Again, take your time. You will see it begin to move and after a while the top will have come down while the front has moved back out in line with the other areas of the leading fender edge. Piece of cake. A body shop would hit you up for about 5 bills for that.....

Larry
 
yup, you can pretty much count on no paint being left in the repair area. especially if you plan on using a stud welder in certain spots. I would definitely get rid of the thought of salvaging your paint job. However, if you do find some magical way, I would love to know :-D
 
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