Can someone help with this cam ID?

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PRH said:
You may already have that cam.

Also, you’ll likely have a hard time finding one these days.
Click to expand...
I'm just wondering if its too much cam for my build. Some of the reading I've done is saying that cam is only making about 9" of vacuum max. I need a bit more to run my power brakes. So, that is also weighing on whether or not I choose something else.

I just don't want to over cam. For reference, I have a 318 bored .030 with standard .030 replacement pistons. I talked to Wiseco a bit ago and I'm going to swap in taller pistons and likely have the block zero decked. I have a set of X heads that I'll be using and those are getting dropped off today to find out the size of the chambers. I have a 1900-2200 stall behind a 727 (change this to something else?) and currently running 3.55's but I want to put in 3.23's for lower highway RPM
 
Cutting the decks is IMO the long way around the barn. It leads to machining every other part to make it all fit, and if it isn't done perfectly, then you get other issues.
IMHO, Just get taller pistons. it's likely gonna be cheaper and better in the long run.
Before I'd go thru all that again, if I couldn't get the right pistons, I'd probably get longer rods made up.

Btw, choosing a street-cam based on idle-vacuum to satisfy a power brake booster is, IMO, to be kind, is sorttanuts. Here's why;
you almost never drive your car at idle, lol.
Just rev it up a couple of hundred rpm and see what I mean, and, there is this honking big vacuum reservoir attached and part of the booster, that takes more than one run from 65 to zero mph, to deplete. The only time that low idle vacuum becomes a problem, is atta long stoplight, and the cure is just to rev it up a lil, to recharge the booster.
If you have a manual trans, just install a line-loc, and use it as a hill-holder, with the trans it Neutral.
With these tricks, my 292/292/108 cam never had a problem, except at first start next morning, or anytime after the booster had equalized. But knowing it was gonna happen, a couple of blips of the throttle, and she was ready to rock. My normal idle speed on that cam was ~750 where it pulled about 9 inches, depending on the Idle-timing.
But, I admit, this was/is a hi-pressure 367 in a streeter, with a manual trans, so, with a modest change to my driving style, I hardly ever have to use the brakes until just before stopping, and with deceleration driving the engine with a closed throttle, the decelerating vacuum is always quite high.
My current cam is a 276/286/110 hi-lift brute, that has zero issues with the booster, even down at 550 rpm with the timing dialed back to 5 degrees, and so, parading. Personally, I never even think about low-vacuum any more.
I would gladly run your cam, but with 160psi cylinder pressure; but that will never happen with pistons in the hole.

Running 3.23s is easy, just put a 2800 stall convertor on it. I did that with my stock cammed, 8.0 rated 318 winter motor, and every winter, a different rear gear, from 4.30 down to 2.73s, except 3.73s (which I did not have), lol. the 2800 is a real low-pressure game-changer.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Cutting the decks is IMO the long way around the barn. It leads to machining every other part to make it all fit, and if it isn't done perfectly, then you get other issues.
IMHO, Just get taller pistons. it's likely gonna be cheaper and better in the long run.
Before I'd go thru all that again, if I couldn't get the right pistons, I'd probably get longer rods made up.

Btw, choosing a street-cam based on idle-vacuum to satisfy a power brake booster is, IMO, to be kind, is sorttanuts. Here's why;
you almost never drive your car at idle, lol.
Just rev it up a couple of hundred rpm and see what I mean, and, there is this honking big vacuum reservoir attached and part of the booster, that takes more than one run from 65 to zero mph, to deplete. The only time that low idle vacuum becomes a problem, is atta long stoplight, and the cure is just to rev it up a lil, to recharge the booster.
If you have a manual trans, just install a line-loc, and use it as a hill-holder, with the trans it Neutral.
With these tricks, my 292/292/108 cam never had a problem, except at first start next morning, or anytime after the booster had equalized. But knowing it was gonna happen, a couple of blips of the throttle, and she was ready to rock. My normal idle speed on that cam was ~750 where it pulled about 9 inches, depending on the Idle-timing.
But, I admit, this was/is a hi-pressure 367 in a streeter, with a manual trans, so, with a modest change to my driving style, I hardly ever have to use the brakes until just before stopping, and with deceleration driving the engine with a closed throttle, the decelerating vacuum is always quite high.
My current cam is a 276/286/110 hi-lift brute, that has zero issues with the booster, even down at 550 rpm with the timing dialed back to 5 degrees, and so, parading. Personally, I never even think about low-vacuum any more.
I would gladly run your cam, but with 160psi cylinder pressure; but that will never happen with pistons in the hole.

Running 3.23s is easy, just put a 2800 stall convertor on it. I did that with my stock cammed, 8.0 rated 318 winter motor, and every winter, a different rear gear, from 4.30 down to 2.73s, except 3.73s (which I did not have), lol. the 2800 is a real low-pressure game-changer.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input! Greatly appreciated. The main reason I mentioned the vacuum is because I was already looking at other cams since I may be over-cammed for my intended build. If that purple cam I already have will be fine, I'll just run it with the 9" of vacuum. Like you said, you never use your brakes at idle.
 
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