69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
I don't think those rings do anything other than "center" the wheel to make it a little easier to get the lugs on. The plastic certainly isn't holding the weight of the car, because the tapered seats on the lug nuts are.
Can we talk about "center bore" for a minute?
- Thread starter MRGTX
- Start date
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It all depends how fast you want to go and how smooth you want your ride. Used to run 75 to 80 mph all day long. I would never have a Uni-Lug wheel on any of my cars.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Ran 75-80 mph all day long with Uni-Lugs. Never had one issue with them.
aydnm444
New Member
I am assuming you mean you had the center hub removed somehow? I drive a ranger and got some rims that have a center bore too small to fit, I'm planning on selling them but really would love to find a fix instead of getting rid of them. Right now just about every option seems sketchy except somehow getting rid of the center hub or shrinking it somehow which I don't think is possible.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
In 2 cases for me, putting Ford-based wheels on Mopars (aftermarket FR500 wheels on my Duster and OE turbine-style wheels on an M-body) I found the center bore itself to be big enough but there was a thin lip that shrank down the ID a tad. I did have to get the front wheels bored out to fit on my hubs for the Duster (like 72bluNblu said, center bore shrinks down at the outboard side to fit center caps) but for the rears I just took a sanding roll on my Dremel and slowly removed material from the lip in the wheel center bore until it fit snugly over the hub on the rear axle flanges.
To me having hub-centric wheels is more of a bonus, not really needed unless you're doing some serious corner-carving with wide sticky front tires (heard of people breaking wheel studs from that!). Takes a bit of the load off the lugs but not much if you look at the direction the forces are acting.
To add to the star-pattern method for tightening non-hub-centric wheels, I lightly snug down 2 opposite lugs going back-and-forth until they're fully seated then proceed to snug down and torque the rest of the lugs in a star pattern. That ensures the wheel gets centered before any lugs get torqued enough to keep that from happening.
To me having hub-centric wheels is more of a bonus, not really needed unless you're doing some serious corner-carving with wide sticky front tires (heard of people breaking wheel studs from that!). Takes a bit of the load off the lugs but not much if you look at the direction the forces are acting.
To add to the star-pattern method for tightening non-hub-centric wheels, I lightly snug down 2 opposite lugs going back-and-forth until they're fully seated then proceed to snug down and torque the rest of the lugs in a star pattern. That ensures the wheel gets centered before any lugs get torqued enough to keep that from happening.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
You double drilled a Chevy centerline for 5 on 4? Interesting!
I've got two pair of 5 on 4 centerlines that have been double drilled for 5 on 4 1/2. They used a smaller center hole to leave more meat around the small pattern. Back side of center holes were opened up partially thru, so the wheels can still use the small CL caps. Wish I had some, lol. Also have a pair of 15x12 CL autodrags that have been double drilled 5 on 4 1/2, 5 on 5.
As to the center register, there have been billions upon billions of miles driven on non-hubcentric wheels.
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jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
Oh the necro-posting....
All you guys that don't think you need hubcentric wheels....would you run a flywheel that had a center bore that was too big?
As for the rest of it. Run Jeep wheels!
All you guys that don't think you need hubcentric wheels....would you run a flywheel that had a center bore that was too big?
As for the rest of it. Run Jeep wheels!
Lol. Don’t believe I’ve ever seen 60° seat and taper hardware for a flywheel either. It’s almost like the application and the type of fastener actually makes a difference.
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