Can you guys give me the LOW DOWN between the GM/Chevy PU & Dodge

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greymouser7

greymouser7

Vagrant Vagabond “Veni Vidi Vici”
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78002 down the road from Atascosa, Texas
GM 1973? -> 1987?
Versus
Dodge 1972? -> 1991?

I want a truck to buy to help me move a few trips. I really prefer Manual transmission.

I am looking at a 1990 D150 extended cab with a 318 and a A833 OD with rust around the wheel wells with 58,719 miles and a few Chevy single cab 350 pickups with the TH350 turbo 350 trans. Rusty loves the D150 option, I am not sure if it is enough truck. there are a very few low mileage chevy's but most of these chevy trucks go for $5000 to $6000. A few are above $2000.

There are some Star Destroyer Crew Cabs that are appealing (Either make) but I cannot find any manual transmission Crew Cabs. The Navy is paying me to move back home (1100 miles, will take a few trips). I am going to buy a car dolly for the project cars. 99% of the drive is I-10 near the coast, few hills and a terrific steep bridge in Louisiana around I-12 bypass if I remember correctly.

What are the drawbacks vs benefits? What is the most reliable? Cheap vs dependable etc.

I disagree with abodyjoe's assessment that we can walk into a part store if something goes wrong (with the truck on a move) - recently my experience is that the parts stores have to order what you/we/me/I need if it the part isn't common. Alternators and starters are, but ignition relay switches are not as an example.
 
Seriously? Does my opinion really mean this little?
 
It isnt what is in your list, but i have a 94 ram 2500 i bought last year. Its a beater. But it seems like a good truck. Every time i fiddle with it i like it a little more.
Turns out the “head gasket” leak is the heater hose o-ring.
I got it for 900,will likely need a grand to make it pass safety.
I have had old chevys and still use my 80 power wagon in the summer. I have owned it for 25 plus years.
I cant say either is better or worse, but parts cost is usually cheaper for the gm’s. And likely more parts available at a moments notice.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Seriously? Does my opinion really mean this little?
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I am asking for more information. D100, D200, D300, W350, -things like how are the suspensions different between the sizes or between the two makes. I had a D300 Dually flatbed with a Dana 70 and it came with a slant 6. What is out there?

What wears out first?

What do I need to look for at the vehicle when I am checking out the truck?

I am not a truck guy due to lack of funding or time.
There are 3 different dodge truck rearends that I know of.
There never was 8 3/4 axles on the trucks I listed (as I know). Why?
Does Chevy put the 10 bolt main in their pickup trucks? For what? 305's? Or also 350's?

Is the D150 a light suspension package?
Rusty it would be unfair to ask you to explain all the options and all the problems of these two makes.
I am trying to make the best calculated purchase.
 
Get the Dodge. It really is that simple.
 
Back in the late 80's early 90's one of my buddies had a 74 dodge D100 with a 225 slant six 3 speed manual trans, 8.75 rear 3:55 gears. We pulled a car trailer with it and drug in old mopars from all around Ky. Tn.and In.that thing was so reliable. Only thing ever happened was one time the plastic gear on the distributor failed. We put a new gear on it on the side of the road. That truck made a believer out of me. I grew up driving my dads 73 GMC 350 3 speed trans. Manual. Had a lot of bad luck with it trans problems and such. I agree with Rusty on this one, Dodge all the way!
 
I prefer the dodge over the square body.

Can't beat Chevy parts availability and prices.

BUT.....

Hands down the 89-91 dodge with the 1st gen cummins is by far and away the best selection out of your criteria.
 
Yes, read up on some of the 12 valve cummins forums, I know of MANY of these trucks that are still reliably going strong. The Cummins, being a much heavier engine, got specialty suspension and frame work that the other dodges of that era did not have. The word I use to describe a properly maintained 1'st gen cummins Dodge is "ANVIL"!
 
3forty said:
Get the chevy......"like a rock"
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Like as rock plunging to the bottom of s lake. That Dodge is twice the truck those others are. Maybe more. And talking about price and availability for parts, the 72-93 Dodges are just as cheap and plentiful as the Chevy junk. John, you KNOW how much I like other makes and am always talking about how they all made good stuff, but in this case the Dodge really is the best one. 318 overdrive. Nuff said.
 
I reread the specs on the 1990. With the overdrive, going to have 3.21 or 3.55 gears in a 9-1/4, maybe 3.90s. Good heavy springs in there for that class of truck. Just don’t outright abuse the clutch, the stock clutch center hubs got a little thin in some of those trucks, but they are easily changed in that truck as well. I would snatch that on up in a heartbeat if I could, I have a friend with a collection of gas NP 435 (HD 4 speed) and NV4500 (HD 5 speed) transmissions for that model. Daing, y’all giving me truck fever today, lolol!
 
Oh, and 8-3/4 axles were available, 60s half ton up to early ‘73, My 73 D100 came with 8-3/4 but got backed up into coastal waters too often up state and had a warranty 8-1/4 rear end installed afterward, 3.55 gears factory. Best place to find 742 or 489 HD cases. Trucks from that era had a spec sheet under the hood that showed axle models and ratio and if open or suregrip as well as engine, transmission, transfer case, springs, wheel and tire options, pretty much everything.
 
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Simple. If you tow with the Dodge, don't use overdrive. Problem solved. You're really not supposed to use overdrive towing anyway.
 
well, the years you want are climbing in value as "collectors" now. If your looking for a practical truck..... For the same money, or less, just buy a 1999-2003 Dodge Ram 2500 with a 360 gas motor. It will service you fine, and you'll get AC, FI, etc.

I bought my '01 2500 over 4 years ago. She is up to 255,*** and still a daily driver. 800 whopping bucks for a no rust truck. Starting to show a little rust now, but I've had excellent service.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Simple. If you tow with the Dodge, don't use overdrive. Problem solved. You're really not supposed to use overdrive towing anyway.
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Umm...since when?

We talking old school stuff here? you don't even have a choice with the new 6 speed sticks or with the auto 6 speeds. CAn't speak to the new 8 speed autos.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Yes, read up on some of the 12 valve cummins forums, I know of MANY of these trucks that are still reliably going strong. The Cummins, being a much heavier engine, got specialty suspension and frame work that the other dodges of that era did not have. The word I use to describe a properly maintained 1'st gen cummins Dodge is "ANVIL"!
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I just bought a 92 cummins. Intercooled with he OD for 3500 bucks with 160k on the speedo. Needed nothing and came with a Meyers plow.

Why would you own any of the other junk?
 
roccodart440 said:
Umm...since when?

We talking old school stuff here? you don't even have a choice with the new 6 speed sticks or with the auto 6 speeds. CAn't speak to the new 8 speed autos.
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Well, Ford has always said not to tow in OD. My 04 Powerstroke said so right in the owner's manual. It's kinda common sense really.....at least to me. Towing in OD means on the slightest grade, you're shiftin to 3rd. Back and forth back and forth. "I" would simply slow down and use third. Call it my personal opinion if you want.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Simple. If you tow with the Dodge, don't use overdrive. Problem solved. You're really not supposed to use overdrive towing anyway.
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usually correct in that model, my friends first gen Cummins sure didn’t seem to know the difference between direct and overdrive though!
 
Yes, I do agree with that though, you do want to avoid downshifting while towing up the grade. Shock doesn’t help the drivelines, and the harmonics that diesels carry to the driveline is also another factor. When the operational rpm and the harmonics are at the same frequency, bad things start to happen, usually in the rear axle. It’s a common topic over in the diesel threads.
 
I have a Ram 3500 Cummins bought new, 220k miles, auto overdrive, but a 4:10 rear, 90% of miles pulling a gooseneck. I always pull in OD because the sucker only runs bout 50 otherwise!!! Never any trans problem, but I agree with RRR, all say do pull in OD!!
Cummins are million mile engines, BUT the injection system can cost $5000 to replace!

For most people a 318 OD 1/2 t is plenty! Me I prefer a 3/4 t. heavier everything without the extra wheels !!
 
Yes, the 3.09:1 first of the a-833 O.D. is a little high for towing a vehicle (NP 435 4 speed has a 6.68:1 low!), but being he said mostly flat ground, it would be finer than frog hair split three ways. My truck friends dad hauls heavy scrap in an ‘88 D-150 with OD A-833 and a slant six with 3.55 9-1/4, with a 16 foot twin axle trailer loaded with heavy scrap as well. Been going strong 3 years straight now!
 
The 75 W-300 he’s almost got complete for his dad is a real tank, though... high swirl 91 model 318 with a performer intake and carb, 7 blade clutch fan and had water pump, 4 core radiator, 435/205 divorced drive, modern Dana 70s front and rear, 4.88 gears, suregrip rear, Detroit locker front, dually, soon to be flat bed. Double plated the entire frame! I can jump up and down on the rear frame rails and only the tires give a little, the springs don’t even budge... he didn’t even bother putting the overload springs back on it yet, came with 11 leaf factory primary springs. I’ll post some pictures of it when I see him again. When you look up truck in a dictionary, there should just be a picture of it instead of an actual definition.
 
Years ago I had a '88 D150 with 833OD and slant, I pulled a car trailer with B bodies no problem except I was always worried about burning up the clutch getting rolling!!
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well, Ford has always said not to tow in OD. My 04 Powerstroke said so right in the owner's manual. It's kinda common sense really.....at least to me. Towing in OD means on the slightest grade, you're shiftin to 3rd. Back and forth back and forth. "I" would simply slow down and use third. Call it my personal opinion if you want.
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Just tough to tow at certain speeds without it depending on rear gear etc.
 
I've run a number of 70's through early 90's Dodges with great luck. Most had 318's in them and I had no issues. Relatively easy to work on and reliable. Also had a 1999 Ram 1500 4 WD with a 318 Magnum and automatic. Drove the hell out of it and never had any real problems, other than axle joints since you can't put lockouts on them! Currently have an 07 Ram 1500 with a 5.7 Hemi. Love the power there, but hate changing the spark plugs in it. Parts will be cheaper on a Chebby, but you already know how to wrench on a MOPAR if you are on this forum. Like my brother said: " I will always drive MOPARS because it would take me another 25 years to learn how to work on another brand!"
 
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