Can You Help A Girl Out?

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Backtobasics said:
I recommend getting one of the laser temperature readers. It may not be actually overheating, but it may be the gauge or sender is questionable. Using the little laser gun, you can measure the temp on upper rad hose, lower hose, etc.

This will tell you if it is getting hot (210+ or so)or if the sendor / gauge is giving you a bad reading, or if the radiator is questionable (upper and lower hose are about the same temperature, instead of a big change).
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Thanks for the input! : )
 
Sorry;Guess I was looking with both eyes,I'll do better next time.I had an aunt that used prep H on her face,one morning she got up,looked in the mirror,had one wrinkle-right down the center of her face.
 
First I will say that sorry this did not happen a few years earlier as my dad had a place in Zephyrhills And I could have come down and helped. One thing none has said yet is-your exhaust system my have a sharp kink in it or a internally collapsed muffler or other obstruction. That can lead to over heating. But check your temp with a laser to see if it is a real problem or not.
 
look for a plug on the passenger side of the block, shouldbe a 9/16. remove it. it is in the water jackets, coolant should come pour out when you remove that plug so dont remove it from the bottom looking up at it. if nothing comes out take a pick or a stiff wife and poke around. my car sat for a long time and it kept plugging up the radiator. i took that plug out and flushed it out with the garden hose about 20 times. every time i would pull the hoses off the heater core, flush the heater core and the block and head until clean water comes out the other end. you will want to flush it from every single hole watergoes in or out of. do that a couple times then do a napa or prestone cooling system flush. i wouldnt do the flush first as there is sprobably so much crap in the system you wan tto get as much out as possible. black sand looking material was constantly coming out of the block when i would flush it. for the longest time i only ran water as i would flush it pretty frequently. when it would start to clog up again i would notice it running hotter, i would have to flush it right away or withing the next few rides it would overheat.
 
Bea said:
I've been to a couple of places for help on some stuff, but really need someone who can help me or at least show me how to do the repairs.

Is there anyone out there who lives in my area that can help me out? Need someone who knows "what in the hell they are doing" or if you know of someone, please let me.

I'm in Lakeland, FL (Polk County) on the County Line of Hillsborough County & Plant City, FL

1962 Dodge Lancer GT - 225 /6 Alumn

~ Many Thanks, Bea
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I would start by first burping the cooling system to make sure there is not air pocket trapped in the cooling system some where.

I do this by popping the cap off the radiator, starting the engine pouring coolant in until it wont take anymore and I let it idle for a bit and get warm so I know the stat opens up,then I will speratically squeeze the upper radiator hose to try to force any air out of the system (if you burp some air the coolant level will drop and then you just add some more coolant to it)after doing this Ill then hold the rpm's at around 1500-2000 rpms to keep the coolant circulating fast enough that it draws the coolant level down and WHILE I am holding the rpm's I will add coolant to the radiator.

then as soon as you let off of the rpm's its going to want to overflow out of the radiator cap a bit but that is fine....after that put the cap back on and your done.

also I would suggest buying a flush T, you can get them at most auto parts stores for a couple bucks ,you then just chop one of your heater hose lines in half and install the flush T in between the two halfs of the hose you just cut......with this flush T you can "burp" your system like I mentioned doing through the radiator but with a flush T located in a heater hose its actually the most efficient way to "burp" the system being that it is the highest point in the cooling system and that any air in the system will rise to the highest point and settle.

also with the flush T you can simply screw a garden hose into it, disconnect your lower radiator hose, turn on the faucet and flush your cooling system.

what thermestat do you have in it right now? a summer stat? a winter stat?,if its over heating you might want to drop to something like a 165 degree stat so it doesnt stay closed as long.

sometimes a good way to judge if the stat is working is to sit in the car and watch your temp gauge, the temperature should increase and then as soon as the temperature reaches the matching temperature that the stat is meant to open at....your gauge should drop by 30 or so degrees when the rush of cooler fluid enters the engine and then the temperature should either stay right about there or slightly rise back up some.

if you notice this sudden drop in temperature than your stat is working.

a fan shroud would definitely help keep it cool.

there is alot of things that could cause it.....from basic stuff like I have mentioned all the way up to serious things like a bad head gasket or something ( lets hope that is not the case though!).

someone here can come help you or between all of us we can atleast give advice and send you in the right direction.

good luck on getting it fixed!

P.S. that picture is funny :cheers:
 
First thing I would do is find a fan shroud. Good catch Leanna. When you say it runs hot a few miles out is this stop and go or highway? If highway its probably not the missing shroud. If stop and go the fan is probably not pulling enough air thru the radiator to keep it cool when slowing or stopped. Take a thick sheet of construction paper and put it against the front of the radiator while the motors at idle. If the fan doesnt suck the paper up against the radiator and hold it there you have poor air flow which may be your problem.DD
 
Is the car originally from FL? Many times, floridians dont use antifreeze. This tends to make the jackets rust up. Just a thought. (I used to live in FL.Clearwater).
 
Another quick thought, have you looked at the lower radiator hose? Is it firm, not soft and is the spring intact?
 
First things first, Burp the system just like DusterDude said, don't worry about a finding a shroud right now just burp the system and make sure you have a spring or coiled up coat hanger in the bottom radiator hose. While driving at speed the bottom hose will suck it self shut and overheat. If your still having problems then flush the whole system and if you want better cooling without finding a uncracked a shroud just replace the stock 4 blade fan with a 7 blade fan from another slant that came with AC, you can usually find them for no more tan $40 (the V8 ones are too thick). I did the 7 blade swap on my 73 and on my wifes 66 daily drivers and never had a problem even in summer when it was 102* in stop and go traffic.


Also take to Slantsixdan, there may be some other cooling tricks/issues for the aluminum blocks that he knows about.
 
heh, is that enough help for you?? lol. i'd be willing to bet that your gauge is off. mine was, ran 3/4 gauge all the time......that was over 20 years ago.......never had signs of overheating though (smell, puking out the overflow....)

you can get an after market gauge at any auto store for cheap, easy to install, comes w/directions....(something us dudes know nothing about....)
someone else said shoot it w/a laser temp gun.....if u can find someone that has one, that would tell you......you could also chk. the top and bottom rad. hoses w/a mechanics pocket temp gauge........also someone else said chk. the flow through the radiator......should be able to see the coolant cruising thru the top of the tank/coils...all good stuff......good luck, your car looks pretty sweet.......along w/the pajamas...lol.

more pics please.........
higgs
 
I just went out and double checked.. excuse the crappy cell phone pics...

The one in my 73 Dart (same as the one in my wifes 66 Dart) is factory AC 7 blade fan off a slant six and it s 1 1/2" thick. Also the blades slightly curve forward that with any flex in the fan at higher RPMS I wouldn't want it any closer to the radiator.

IMAG0032.jpg


The one in my 69 D100 is a factory AC 7 blade V8 clutch fan and the blades are 2 1/2" thick. It only fits the truck because the motor is further away from the radiator in the trucks

IMAG0034.jpg
 
Bea said:
Well, as you all know...I'm such a "Newbie" at this and I am trying my best to get the Lancer in tip top shape to use as a daily driver. I've been to a couple of places for help on some stuff, but really need someone who can help me or at least show me how to do the repairs. She just needs an overall "look-see" and tackle what needs to be done. I would do it my self, but in all honesty...I'm not sure what to look or listen for. Trying to learn as I go...but in a time crunch now.

My other vehicle is a "lease" and is going back at the end of Feb. (too much $$$) So, I will need to rely on the Lancer.

Is there anyone out there who lives in my area that can help me out? Need someone who knows "what in the hell they are doing" or if you know of someone, please let me.

I'm in Lakeland, FL (Polk County) on the County Line of Hillsborough County & Plant City, FL

1962 Dodge Lancer GT - 225 /6 Alumn

~ Many Thanks, Bea
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FIRST I LIKE WHAT YOU DID so far engine looks good and a naytime you want to come help with my car comeon over have you checked to see it the thermastat is in ther ight way if you put it int upside down it won't work right nice jammies
 
omahamoparguy said:
Is the car originally from FL? Many times, floridians dont use antifreeze. This tends to make the jackets rust up. Just a thought. (I used to live in FL.Clearwater).
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I do believe that's an aluminum block slant. Make sure you use a good coolant with a corrosion inhibitor for aluminum! Most modern name brand anti-freeze should be ok.
 
Id say get the shroud, Ive seen that make an engine tend to run warmer but I would check to water pump or all the fittings on the hoses.
Nate
 
looking at you pictures, i see a fairly new water pump .was this replace due to leaking ,or replaced before over heating happen?i have seen a few after market water pumps where inpeller came off or put on backwards cause no or reversed flow,witch can cause over heating very quickly.
 
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