can you raise the redline of an engine

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To be serious for a moment, usable power is a factor of cubic inch, ports, cam/ valvetrain, and intake/ carb. To shift the power curve higher in the rpm range you would need better flowing heads and or a different cam. A factory Mopar small block should be good to 7K with attention to detail and all the good parts. The 383 HP uses the same heads, cam/ valvetrain as a 440. All things equal the 383 will make peak power higher in RPM than the 440.
 
is it possible to take a 360 and change out parts to raise the redline? like could you swap the bearings and water/oil pumps for high flow and performance versions? i know what makes an f1 car be able to rev to the moon but that'd take everything out of a 360.


Yes, you can. Performance engines are not factory engines for many reasons. Do some reading on what those differences are because there's a lot of them.
No 50yr old pushrod V8 design will ever be even on the same playing field as an F1 engine. Nevermind the rest of the parts that let an F1 car do what it does.
 
I had 266ci engine in F/MP 66 chevelle and I would leave the line @ 9800 RPM and that was with 50lb flywheel
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=TZ7rAqjXr_8"]1978 NHRA Sportsnationals - YouTube[/ame]

This was how we did it
 
Give people who are competent in the field a lot of 100 dollar bills.......that will raise your red line plenty.
 
so i guess my end goal is to raise it to get a little extra power and i like a bit higher redline. that being said im not looking for a ridiculous redline, and i guess i was woundering what the redline of a 360 is. like is it like the redline of my friends 350 chevy at 4500 rpm? so where should i set the rev limiter in this when i build it?
 
Stop thinking about redline(s). And start thinking about what you want the engine to be doing.
If you're building a fun streeter, a high redline helps you nothing, as you will be speeding at the top of 1st gear. For a fun streeter, you should be thinking about bumping up the SBM low-speed torque,and building a broad torque band, and let the HP fall where it may. Building a SBM to a high,bragging-rights,power level for a streeter is a recipe for dissappointment.
If you're building a fun weekend warrior, then you can shift the torque peak a little higher, with its associated higher rpm HP.
If you're building a dedicated, trailer-it-to-the-track,car;well then Rev it til she blows,fix it, rev it a little less.

So, what are you wanting from your SBM?

I think you're a "fun-streeter" kind of guy.And it sounds like you're new to this.And probably on a small budget.
The OEM 360 suffers from a rather low factory compression ratio. This somewhat limits what you can do with it as a streeter. As soon as you put a performance cam into it, which is the way to horsepower,The low speed performance drops off. This requires bandaid fixes like bigger rear gears and hi-stall TCs.Now you are moving away from "fun-streeter" and into "weekend warrior".And the budget is moving into the several thousands of dollars now.
A better idea,IMO, is to improve the C/R and get the heads working early, then a modest cam, to bring the best out of the heads. This will let you keep your factory TC, and run smaller gears such as 2.94s to 3.55s.
For me, this means bringing the piston tops up to the top of the decks, and going to a closed chamber head. Then carefully manipulating the chamber size and Dcr to arrive at numbers that will work for your available gas and altitude.This also requires several thousands of dollars, but has the advantage of not costing you as much on a day-to-day basis at the pumps and in broken parts.This is more science than just throwing parts at it in the hope that something sticks.
If your budget is quite small. A small 4bbl, a set of valve springs, and a free-flowing exhaust will perk up that 360 pretty nicely,in the low speed and midrange. It will do very little for the redline tho. This budget is from several hundred dollars to perhaps a couple of thousand, if new top-of-the-line parts are sourced.
We have an engine builder/vendor on FABO. MRL. He is doing amazing things with the SBM. Perhaps a call to him, if you are serious, will get you a clearer picture.
Be prepared to talk budget, and be honest about your desires.
All the best to you
 
yea thats why my engine isnt ready yet cause i know im gonna dump a munch of money into it and try to make it reliable as a can. i was lookin at doin what rumblefish told me to do, i was gonna go and get kb-107's and a set of forged rods then go and get a came with a duration of [email protected], get some 2.02/1.60 valves for the stock heads(until i could afford some performance heads) and a set of headers. if i had my deam i would have a car that's so intense that barely street legal lol.
 
You cant hardly go wrong with a zero deck 360,closed chamber heads, a 230*cam, and support works.Makes right around 430,with ootb Eddies.
Thats what I got.Very big street fun.
And with alum heads I run 87E10 at 750altitude.

I run a Hughes fast-rate3037 cam,with 1.6 rockers. It doesnt seem to know when to quit pulling.I regularly shift it north of 6500. Often/mostly at 7200.The rev-limiter is at 7500. I've been beating on it this way for about 10 years/100,000 miles.
I wouldn't be scared to run one size smaller cam.Those fast-rates are something else.
You will have big fun
 
What car, trans,rear end ratio? If you give these people more info they could likely help you achieve your performannce goals with fewer mistakes and possibly less cost. There are some good builds also in the tech pages around? Page 8 if i remember correctly.
 
You cant hardly go wrong with a zero deck 360,closed chamber heads, a 230*cam, and support works.Makes right around 430,with ootb Eddies.
Thats what I got.Very big street fun.
And with alum heads I run 87E10 at 750altitude.

I run a Hughes fast-rate3037 cam,with 1.6 rockers. It doesnt seem to know when to quit pulling.I regularly shift it north of 6500. Often/mostly at 7200.The rev-limiter is at 7500. I've been beating on it this way for about 10 years/100,000 miles.
I wouldn't be scared to run one size smaller cam.Those fast-rates are something else.
You will have big fun


That sounds like my spare engine except I have a XR280HR Comp cam in it.
 
You cant hardly go wrong with a zero deck 360,closed chamber heads, a 230*cam, and support works.Makes right around 430,with ootb Eddies.
Thats what I got.Very big street fun.
And with alum heads I run 87E10 at 750altitude.

I run a Hughes fast-rate3037 cam,with 1.6 rockers. It doesnt seem to know when to quit pulling.I regularly shift it north of 6500. Often/mostly at 7200.The rev-limiter is at 7500. I've been beating on it this way for about 10 years/100,000 miles.
I wouldn't be scared to run one size smaller cam.Those fast-rates are something else.
You will have big fun

thats around the rpm i was looking to achieve i mean idealy id love an engine that cound wind out to like 10k making power the whole time but thats not really realistic lol
 
What car, trans,rear end ratio? If you give these people more info they could likely help you achieve your performannce goals with fewer mistakes and possibly less cost. There are some good builds also in the tech pages around? Page 8 if i remember correctly.

im gonna be runnin a 727 and i was lookin at puttin in a high 3 or low 4 rear gear ratio but the only thing set in stone right now is the 360 and 727
 
im gonna be runnin a 727 and i was lookin at puttin in a high 3 or low 4 rear gear ratio but the only thing set in stone right now is the 360 and 727[/

370's -3.91's fit nicely,depending on what tire size you want to run. Has anyone mentioned torque converter choice ,yet? Whatever you do,don't buy a 200 .00 B&M/TCI turd. The torque converter is the single biggest decision you can make,JMO...
 
im gonna be runnin a 727 and i was lookin at puttin in a high 3 or low 4 rear gear ratio but the only thing set in stone right now is the 360 and 727[/

370's -3.91's fit nicely,depending on what tire size you want to run. Has anyone mentioned torque converter choice ,yet? Whatever you do,don't buy a 200 .00 B&M/TCI turd. The torque converter is the single biggest decision you can make,JMO...

what should i look for in a torque converter? all ive been recomended is to go for around a 2400 stall
 
One well built,& custom for your combination. That way,it's done once & right.( in the long run,it saves you money.) Hughes can do a decent converter,on a budget. Check out Edge, PTC & Turbo Action too. Tell them exactly what you expect out of it, & your total combination. Hopefully others chime in here,as well.
 
im gonna be runnin a 727 and i was lookin at puttin in a high 3 or low 4 rear gear ratio but the only thing set in stone right now is the 360 and 727

You might really wanna consider a trans that has overdrive. Rpms are fun but screaming down the road at freeway speeds for longer than 5 mins gets annoying real quick!
 
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