Can't seem to catch a break

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Update....
First, I want to thank you all for your replies, seriously. Now on to the update...

I finally got to pull the pan and pump and found out why I had no oil pressure...
The intermediate shaft had sheared off in the pump because the pump has seized. The pump seized because a piece of steel wire go into it and jammed the rotor assembly. Where the steel wire came from I don't know. I'm particularly careful when cleaning the pump, pickup and pan but perhaps I still missed it. Anyways...a couple of pics below. You can see the wire stuck in the rotor in the first pic and the wire and end of the intermediate shaft in the second.

IMG20230625153020.jpg


IMG20230625153332.jpg
 
Yup, that'll do it. Not a nice thing to find....but at least now you know....
 
dart_68 said:
Correct lifters. Even measured them with a caliper. I primed the motor go and no pressure. It started right up...I ran it for a few seconds to see if the pressure would come up...it didn't.
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What did you mean by you primed the engine? Just curious. I think most assumed you meant priming it with the hex shaft and a drill.
 
Bewy said:
Most likely a stuck relief valve in the oil pump. Or, as you say, int shaft failure. If the tip of the dist shaft had sheared off, engine would not have started. Other possibility is wrong lifters exposing the oil band.
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please explain why the engine would not start if the tip broke
 
That’s a retaining wire clip from a hydraulic lifter. Check all of them before you put it back together. You can replace them (because they’re junk) with internal snap rings and this won’t happen again. Also make sure the pushrod is seated in the cup of the lifter before adjusting them.
 
TT5.9mag said:
That’s a retaining wire clip from a hydraulic lifter. Check all of them before you put it back together. You can replace them (because they’re junk) with internal snap rings and this won’t happen again. Also make sure the pushrod is seated in the cup of the lifter before adjusting them.
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I've heard nothing but problems with hydraulic lifters, is there a quality lifter anymore? American use to be known for their quality and people took pride in their work, what happened?
 
Let us know if you find a missing lifter clip. If it’s and aftermarket oil pan I’ve found pieces of mig wire in a couple oil pans too.
 
Dan the man said:
I've heard nothing but problems with hydraulic lifters, is there a quality lifter anymore? American use to be known for their quality and people took pride in their work, what happened?
Click to expand...
I don’t have lifter problems. Maybe I’m lucky. But i disassemble and clean them prior to installing and not many people do. I like factory hydraulic roller lifters and don’t seem to have an issue at all with them in mild builds with reasonable spring pressures. Anything made by Johnson/Morel is good quality. Haven’t used them yet but I’ve heard good things about Isky’s red zone lifters and I know comp is coming out with a high quality line of lifters.
 
TT5.9mag said:
I don’t have lifter problems. Maybe I’m lucky. But i disassemble and clean them prior to installing and not many people do. I like factory hydraulic roller lifters and don’t seem to have an issue at all with them in mild builds with reasonable spring pressures. Anything made by Johnson/Morel is good quality. Haven’t used them yet but I’ve heard good things about Isky’s red zone lifters and I know comp is coming out with a high quality line of lifters.
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As long as comp has been in business they should have had a quality lifter years ago. I've never heard of Johnson/Morel, what products do they make?
 
Dan the man said:
I've heard nothing but problems with hydraulic lifters, is there a quality lifter anymore? American use to be known for their quality and people took pride in their work, what happened?
Click to expand...

I have, and will always use FT hydraulics where suitable, as I always have, till I have a failure .
As with all things, prep is so important, and if you're asking what prep , you may expect problems.
Don't use Comp. .
Good luck .
 
inertia said:
I have, and will always use FT hydraulics where suitable, as I always have, till I have a failure .
As with all things, prep is so important, and if you're asking what prep , you may expect problems.
Don't use Comp. .
Good luck .
Click to expand...
How do you prep your lifters before you install them? Back in the day all I did was soak them in a clean container with fresh oil.
 
Dan the man said:
How do you prep your lifters before you install them? Back in the day all I did was soak them in a clean container with fresh oil.
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I disassemble the lifters, clean in fresh solvent, check for burrs, dress as nec.
I dont soak them in oil, as that's asking for a valve interference issue.
Hone the lifter bores with a whl cyl hone, mic lifter bores, lifters, test fit, make sure lifters spin freely.
I work the lifter/cam surfaces with lube, working lube right into the pores .
I no longer use Comp crap, as I had the opportunity to refresh some older builds, and Comp was very disappointing
Good luck
 
Scampin said:
What did you mean by you primed the engine? Just curious. I think most assumed you meant priming it with the hex shaft and a drill.
Click to expand...
It didn't...shouldn't have...needed that type of priming. I pulled the plugs, put a boost charger on the battery and cranked it without starting it. Cranking that way would have showed some oil pressure.
 
JimJim,
You are correct. I got that wrong. Was thinking about the dist shaft tip, not int shaft tip.
 
abdywgn said:
rocker shafts turned 180 degrees?
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That would raise oil pressure at the gauge. He says he has "no oil" pressure.
So If they were off laying on the work bench...it would still give pressure at the gauge. I'm wondering if the wire came off the sender/gauge...if it's that kind of if like he said, the pump drive has a coincidental issue.

@dart_68
Didnt realize you cleaned the pump n all that. You need to wet/prime the pump with oil before bolting it on. Pour some into the threaded pickup hole and turn the cog to draw it in..then mount it.

So it ran.. wire jammed in and all.....makes sense. Damn good thing too..or you would have metal in/from the pump and else where in the motor..damage you avoided.
 
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MOPAROFFICIAL said:
That would raise oil pressure at the gauge. He says he has "no oil" pressure.
So If they were off laying on the work bench...it would still give pressure at the gauge. I'm wondering if the wire came off the sender/gauge...if it's that kind of if like he said, the pump drive has a coincidental issue.

@dart_68
Didnt realize you cleaned the pump n all that. You need to wet/prime the pump with oil before bolting it on. Pour some into the threaded pickup hole and turn the cog to draw it in..then mount it.

So it ran.. wire jammed in and all.. but was dry and wouldnt draw oil...makes sense. Damn good thing too
..or you would have metal in the pump and else where...damage you avoided.
Click to expand...
I always lube the pump, and will with the new one, before bolting it on. I use gear oil for a new/dry pump. It's stickier and will cause the pump to pick up oil out of the pan quicker. An old trick was to pack the pump with Vaseline. Pump would almost instantly pick up oil.

Update - not knowing exactly when the pump seized I decided to take a look at the bearings while I was there. All the bearings were perfect. Showed no signs of oil starvation, pitting or scoring. Whew! I think I really dodged a bullet.
 
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