Car cranks but wants to start when i release the key but wont run

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No.
Have you had the distributor out or similar changes?
If so, give it a little less advance.

Instead of buying parts, make your next purchase a couple tools.
A cheap multimeter and an in-line spark tester.
lisle-20610__1.jpg
 
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Have you done the diagnostic procedure outlined in post 12? If not, why? If you have, why haven't you posted results. We're giving you pieces of time we never get back trying to help. You could give updates here.
 
No.
Have you had the distributor out or similar changes?
If so, give it a little less advance.

Instead of buying parts, make your next purchase a couple tools.
A cheap multimeter and an in-line spark tester.
View attachment 1715358061
Ok I just want to make sure and the voltage regulator plug has slight damage to it so I didn’t know if that would affect it.
 
Here man.
Sounds like these guys are giving you good advice.
In short the blue wire you should check is fed from the alternator voltage and should measure whatever the alternators output is (whether its new or old, etc, this wire matches that voltage). Its what your ballast and control unit use to get running power as well.
If your battery wasnt recharging, then yeah you could worry about that pin, otherwise the regulator is doing its job as far as youre concerned.
The blue wire is shared with the left side of your ballast, as well as one of the pins to the control unit. The right top side of the ballast is to your ignition coil +, back to the blue , and sent to the column as well. Bottom Right side of your ballast is a single wire to the control unit. The other 3 wires on the control unit are coil -, and the dizzy +/-
This is for reference in checking the previously mentioned stuff by others. Ill attach a diagram thats colored to just make finding bit easier. its going to be about 99% accurate with the exception of a few wire colors of no relation to your needed help.
Also, the blaster ss is not designed for the orange box. You need to bypass the ballast to make it work and thatll just cook the control module if you do.
just for further info, the blaster ss coil is .333 and you computer is something like 3..... 3.2? and stock coil 1.8 and stock ballast at 1.4
its meant for a different type of ignition system entirely and could potentially me causing havoc with the orang box control module you have, or could be burnt up if you havent changed anything else out.
Hope this info helps

1974 Valiant Wiring Diagram Full_Edited.png
 
Happened to me.....my bulk head connector wasn't seated well....

Jeff
(Results may vary)
 
Sounds like ballast resistor. Make sure it is not in upside down, and has a sealed back. I had an issue with a new single ballast that I had recently replaced. Took awhile to figure out, the back of the new resistor was exposed, usually they come sealed up at the back... After I washed the car, water got into the resistor and after a few miles of driving, the new ballast resistor killed the car. would turn over and fire when I released the key, but died immediatly.

New ballast fixed it. Had a spare in the glovebox and it was my first instinct. *Replace ballast resistor*
 
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