Car sputters

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ellococt

ellococt

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Today I was gonna drive my car over to my dads friends shop to have him look at a problem with the gas tank. ( when u overfill it leaks) so I'm driving along and I came to a stop and when I accelerated the car moved fine then I pressed down a liittle more And the car started sputtering I gave it a little more gas and it launched foward and sputtered some more eventually it died with my foot on the gas at that point I was only 2 blocks away from my house so i decided to make a u turn back home it took me a while but I got there got honked at alot. The fuel pump is new, new coil, new wires, new spark plugs, points and condenser were changed I had more than a tank full of gas lol. What should I do next?
 
Thats going to be a hard one to truble shoot over the E-net. I am thinking timing mabby. Check the fiering order. Make sure the pluges are in the right holes on oth the distributor and in the heads. Thats a start. What do you have the timing set at?
 
I had the same thing happen to my duster and I rebuild the carb. When I opened it up there was alot of crud in the carb. The carb rebuild kit was $16.00. Good luck.
 
from what i have read with the gas leek I'm thinking maybe the rubber line back at tank maybe cracked up and leaking and socking air under exceleration.will it start and idle.if so that's what I would check.that's my thuat...
 
You have to have fuel and spark. You'll need to let us know which you dont have. Good luck
 
Did you use the carb that was on the motor I gave you?


Well I drank up the last of the Tequila your dad gave me last night. Good stuff. Thank him again for me.
 
sorry i havent replied i havent been able to get to a computer first thing is that we looked under the tank there are 4 metal tubes that are sticking out with nothing connecting to them, the leak in the gas tank is coming from the rubber piece that connects to the pipe where u put the gas in. can someone tell me what those four tubes sticking out the gas tank are for? maybe thats our problem
 
I had a problem consistent with the symptoms you describe. In my case, the choke was refusing to open. Cold start... fine. Drive down the road... okay. Idle... pretty good. Then... sputter crap-out and die.
I lifted the air cleaner cover, stuck my head in there, and... AHAaaa!!!
 
Ellocet
You need to replace ALL the rubber pieces in the fuel system. The "new" gas formula is eating it up. I have had the same problem on some of my cars. It will also clog up the fuel filters and get into your carb. This can cause all sorts of issues.
The metal lines are most likely vents but I dont remember 4 of them.
Frank
 
I always start with the cheapest things first for troublshooting.

Change the rubber parts - this is the most common problem with these old cars. Happened to me several times on several different cars.

then change the gas filter (I had a car stall because I never changed it and it was all gummed up with gunk!)

Clean carb/ check choke... Look for vacuum leaks..

if still no.. then try to rebuild the carb.

work your way up from there.

Hope it helps
 
RedFish said:
You have to have fuel and spark. You'll need to let us know which you dont have. Good luck
Click to expand...
I agree with RedFish. Find out what you don't have. If no parts have been changed since it last ran good, things like timing are not likely to be the problem. Start by putting a timing light on each plug while it's running and see if there is an electrical miss. You may have to vary the RPM to bring out the problem. If it's good and steady, it's probably fuel. Start with making sure the choke isn't stuck. Then a flow test, by taking the fuel line loose somewhere after the pump and have someone crank over the engine (ground the coil secondary wire so it doesn't start) and see if you have a good stream of fuel coming out and into a container for inspection. OK? next would be a new filter and cut open the old one to check for debris and/or water. If it still has the problem after that, you'll probably have to go into the carb and clean it out also.
Good luck, Mark
 
the old tank has a O-ring type of seal, on a 67 dart i used to drive it was cracked, and if we filled the tank it would leak and drip BAD for the first couple gallons. tried high-grade sealant, no good. gotta replace it.

also, i am having a similar stutter and die issue with my 62 lancer...since everything is rebuilt, replaced, or otherwise FIXED, i'm looking at loose spark plug wires being the primary culprit. that or the ignition coil (recently replaced) or the ignition module, which was also replaced last summer. my car is converted to electronic ignition, still trying to figure out if that's a good thing or not. :)
 
My car is doing the same thing as the origanal post beside the fuel leak, im was thinking it was the choke cause on cold days it would do it real bad but as soon as it warmmed up it would stop. here latley its allways doing it and the choke is wide open on a 80 deg day. my plugs ar good the timeing is not off cause it would do it all the time. its more like a vac leak i think but what is weird as soon as i park it revs fine. its allway when under a load, ill hit 40 mph and it starts and before i couldnt get on the highway id hit 60 and it would cut out. i was realy thinking it was the choke but now im stumped. Any Ideas? The fuel pump looks new, i realy dont think its spark cause the plugs are good. Does any one have a good link to rebuild a 1 brl carb. its a 68 dart 225
 
See, now this IS weird... My Duster just went into limp mode on Monday ( 1 Man Power ) :lol: Left it sit for a week while on vacation, drove fine on Sunday and stalling on Monday. Mine turned out to be junk plugging up the sock in the tank...
 
ha, well since reading and responding to this post, i had to have my tank dropped and cleaned...now I'VE got a leak at the ring! i developed a bad stall issue, was a rusted out and gunked up screen and i forgot to check my fuel filter (which i knew needed to be done, but with everything else it just sort of forgot about it...). also, something as simple as choke idle can do it, but there's also the choke thermostat to consider.
 
Ok so i just got done rebuilding my carb and it looked good. i started the car and it started acting up again , this time i was able be under the hood while acting up. i was looking intothe carb and i noticed its sprays real strong at first but then it cuts out like it cant keep the bowl filled. so tomorow im going to replace my fuel filter and go from there. I want to buy all new fuel lines and a tank i belive that should get rid of the spudering problem
 
The accelerator pump will squirt initially and then stop. By then the RPM's should be high enough for the main jets to supply enough gas to keep it going. The gas is discharged from two different places. In most carbs, the acc pump discharge nozzle is above the main jet discharge. You should only see gas coming out of the main(s) when the RPM's are higher than idle. Be carefull looking down the intake while you rev the engine. It could backfire and give you a nasty burn. Better to use a mirror.
 
I had the same problem with the slant in my truck for a good long time before I realized that it was just the fact that the intake exhaust manifold had a leak at the head. My truck ran great one warm but sputtered and wouldnt accelerate at all when cold.

Just an idea

Jeff
 
If it has a plugged fuel filter.....or gunk in the carb, you don't start by fixing those things. Those are symptoms of a larger problem. You start by finding the source of what caused those problems. These cars are 40 plus years old. Years of moisture and dirt and contaminants in fuel builds up as rust and gunk on the bottom of the tank and makes its way through the entire fuel system over time. The first bit of advice I always give somebody buys an older car is remove the tank, clean it out, replace all the rubber in the fuel system, flush the lines, put a new filter on it. It probably needs a new sock on the sender unit and maybe even a new unit. Then you should address carburetor and fuel pump as necessary. If you repair anything other than the tank first, you're throwing your money away because you are not correcting the source of the problem and it will just keep happening. People think this stuff is supposed to last forever and I got news. It doesn't.
 
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